| carpguy | -- 03-26-2010 @ 6:27 AM |
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Morning All, I'm getting my engine back from the shop this A.M and need some advice on painting it. Should I paint all the pieces seprate or put some stuff togeather first? I guess I'm asking "Whats the right way" If I'm correct, all cast iron parts are green and other metals black? What about the boltheads? Thank You Gary Moscow, Idaho
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| kubes40 | -- 03-26-2010 @ 7:40 AM |
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The engine block, cylinder heads and valve chamber cover were painted prior to machining. Thus, there should be no paint on ANY machined surface. Water pumps (pulleys and bodies) were painted prior to assembly so the shaft (end) remains bare. There should be no paint on ANY of the gaskets either. The cylinder head studs were raven black in most cases. The cylinder head nuts are cadmium. Hope this helps. Mike Kubarth
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| dso72 | -- 03-26-2010 @ 8:40 AM |
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Was the oil pan painted separately? Is so. what finish would the bolts be or the drain plug? Regarding water pumps, should the grease fitting be natural (brass) for a 1935? Is there any reference material available to help us with detailing questions? Thanks for all the help. This is a fantastic site for us new to the early v8 hobby.
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| Stroker | -- 03-26-2010 @ 9:22 AM |
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This photo was sent to me by a fellow EV8 member in New York. It has helped clarify a number of questions.
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| carpguy | -- 03-26-2010 @ 9:38 AM |
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Morning, Thank you for the help. In the picture it looks like the waterpump pulleys where left bare? The carb manifold in the picture is not painted but it's aluminum correct? Since my manifold is cast iron do I paint the boltheads?Thanks Gary Moscow, Idaho
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| kubes40 | -- 03-26-2010 @ 10:34 AM |
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As I didn't know what year you were working on I couldn't have guessed if you had an aluminum valve chamber cover (some refer to as the intake manifold). Anyway, if you get the correct aluminum cover,I would suggest you glass bead blast the cover. It will appears as new. NOT sand, but glass bead. Leave it 'natural' in finish. If you choose to keep the later cast iron cover, it was painted prior to machining. The bolts are cadmium plated. The oil pan was gloss black, the bolts and lock washers holding it to the block, raven black. The water pump pulleys were (originally) painted. Roy Nacewicz is an excellent source for all of the correct type fasteners with of course the correct plating. This club does offer a nice book as a reference to 35 / 36 restoration standards. I might suggest you purchase it. Well worth the cost.
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| supereal | -- 03-26-2010 @ 12:17 PM |
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Our glass bead cabinet leaves soft metal with a matte finish, so if you want something with more gloss, A chemical stripper followed by buffing would be preferable.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-26-2010 @ 5:07 PM |
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The Aluminum intake,When it was made and came out of the mold it has a smooth surface,like a skin on it, once you glassbead it will look great, but is harder to keep clean,everybody makes this mistake, if it was never blasted, try a chemical cleaner, the NCRS Corvette club, had a process to clean thier valve covers, and aluminum intakes, for show, maybe a good scrubbing and soaking with dishwaser soap might work, ever see a copper pan come out of the dishwaher, it make the copper clean as a whistle just my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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| carguy | -- 03-27-2010 @ 6:23 AM |
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So I'm hearing that I can put my '34 aluminum intake manifold and heads in the dishwasher? Sorry dear . . .
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| Grant | -- 03-31-2010 @ 6:27 AM |
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With respect to cleaning cast aluminum intake manifolds, we have had excellent results using immersion in Coca Cola (the real thing, not cheaper cola imitations). I pull the manifold up out of the Coke once every 24 hours. Grease deposits dry up, and can then be taken off carefully with a small flat blade screwdriver or a dental pick. This takes a lot longer than bead blasting.....probably a week or so of spending an hour each evening, but the results are well worth the time and trouble. The original sheen turns out nicely preserved with a pretty patina that doesn't look new or blasted.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-01-2010 @ 7:46 AM |
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CARGUY I did not mean to lead you by saying putting your parts in the dishwasher, I would pressure wash the parts first. then take a plastic storage container,{ large bin]like $4.00 in most stores, and take a few cups of the cleaner and soak in hot water, and scrub,and rinse well, and were gloves. hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN glass beading is ok but make the surface so it attracts dirt more easily. what they need to make is a clear paint, that you could coat on the aluminum parts, and would look original, like a flat clear, after glass beading, or cleaning, that you could spray on,
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| supereal | -- 04-01-2010 @ 3:19 PM |
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We have a machine in our shop called a "Jet Spray". It is like a giant dishwasher and cleans parts with a hot, heavy duty solution. Painting an engine requires removal of all the oil film on the surfaces, or the paint will eventually flake and peel, which is tricky on porous surfaces such as cast iron. You may have a local machine shop that will do it for you. Carb cleaner or starting fluid will do the job, but be very careful, as that stuff is very flammable and should only be used outdoors.
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