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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Parasite

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Discussion Topic: Parasite -- page: 1 2 3 4 5

09-17-2016 @ 10:29 PM

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Johnson Controls Announces Acquisition of Gylling Optima Batteries AB

http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/johnson-controls-announces-acquisition-of-gylling-optima-batteries-ab-73050742.html

And, Made In Mexico > http://techtank.news/new-plant-process-enables-employees-achieve-manufacturing-excellence/

This message was edited by MG on 9-17-16 @ 10:45 PM

Drbrown

09-17-2016 @ 9:18 PM

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Not too important here, and someone may correct me, but I understand that Johnson Contols bought Optima, then they moved to Canada and shifted production of the batteries to Mexico. There have been warranty coverage and enforcement issues with some distributors, i.e. Amazon.

len47merc

09-17-2016 @ 11:54 AM

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Tom's one of, if not THE, best on the Forum here on electrical issues and related troubleshooting processes. You'll get where you want to be quickly following his advice. Looking forward to hearing of your ultimate success!

Steve

silverchief

09-17-2016 @ 10:37 AM

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Steve.

I worked with a buddy installing the harness, because he is a lot younger than me bends easier. He was very conscientious to detail and careful in following the Rhode Island blueprint. For this reason and the fact that the car operates as it should, I have not questioned correct installation.

Although the vendor pronounced it good, two people have told me Optima sold out, and the new owners have had quality control issues with the product since taking over.
When I took it out of my car and drove 20 minutes to the vendor, it was still noticeably warm to the touch, and I'm not sure that should be - so I still suspect it.

Next thing I am going to is work with the observation from Tom O.

Thanks very much for your help Steve.

silverchief

09-17-2016 @ 10:20 AM

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Tom,

You are right - according to my diagram they are on the wrong terminal. But wouldn't that many wires on the wrong terminals have caused problems before now? And can I switch them without ruining something?

Bill

TomO

09-17-2016 @ 8:03 AM

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Bill,

Check your wiring diagram, the one on Vanpelts site shows that the wires you have on the "A" terminal belong on the "B" terminal.

The wires from the "A" terminal feed the light switch, brake light switch, glove box light switch and the pillar light switch.

Tom

len47merc

09-17-2016 @ 5:11 AM

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silverchief - this was/is now a very long and mildly dated thread that may not be fresh on everyones' minds. I reread all 4 pages this morning and want to make sure you have 'gone back to the drawing board' and re-read and re-addressed everything in this thread including references to other threads (with pictures) before others start repeating what has already been recommended.

Reviewing - clock, radio (including floor button switch), horn, cigar lighter, high/low beam switch(es) and ballast resistor 'shorts' and simple wiring harness connection errors are typical (but not the only) causes. With a charged and connected battery have you now 'felt' around for warm/hot spots in addition to using the drain test light? With it draining that quickly something somewhere will surely have some (possibly significant and dangerous) heat to it (EDIT - this is how I stumbled across my drain with the back of my hand referenced earlier in this thread).

I did not see (perhaps I missed it) where you confirmed your wiring harnesses were correctly connected - specifically the main wiring harness through the firewall versus the smaller three-wire bundle from the voltage regulator to the coil & generator (you mentioned a color-blindness issue there as well).

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 9-17-16 @ 5:30 AM

09-16-2016 @ 4:11 PM

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Does your car have a radio?

silverchief

09-16-2016 @ 2:33 PM

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I am still struggling with a drain in my 46 coupe. Optima battery was running down unless I disconnected at night. Vendor charged it overnight and pronounced it good.
New harness installed in August. Excepting the drain, everything on the car, including the clock, works correctly.

Using a test light, it goes out when the large yellow, and smaller yellow with green are removed from the solenoid. They us a single connector. Reconnect - yellow with green goes to horn relay. Disconnect at relay - light still on.

The 3 connecting posts on the circuit breaker are labeled A, B, and H on my schematic.

Large yellow goes through amp meter, then to Post A on circuit breaker. Disconnect - at post A, light goes out. Although new, to make sure the wire itself was not grounded en route, I ran a test wire direct from the solenoid to Post A. Test light on until disconnected, then went out.

Three other wires connect to the A post - clock, cigar lighter, and ignition switch.
Assuming one ground from any would affect all wires on the post, I disconnected each.
Test light still on with large yellow connected by itself.

Large yellow goes on from the circuit breaker to the cutout on the voltage regulator. I removed this connection. Light still on.

I have also removed connection to dash light rheostat, and all connections at the headlight switch without success.

I didn't remove the high beam switch because I see no connection between it and the circuit breaker. I have yet to disconnect the brake light switch - which works correctly.

With installation of new harness, I replaced the old warped circuit breaker with a later model, that has no metal cage. I hesitate to believe the problem is with the circuit breaker itself, because EVERYTHING on the car works as it should.

All suggestions are appreciated.

silverchief

06-12-2016 @ 11:52 AM

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Very informative information and great photos. Thanks very much.

I don't have, and was unaware of the fuse sleeve, but I have checked several times for a drain after putting a rubber sleeve over the holder itself, with good results. The clock is running and my battery has not gone dead overnight.

Fingers crossed, ....but if this problem crops up again I will know where to start.

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