| silverchief | -- 06-03-2016 @ 8:31 AM |
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The Optima battery in my 46 gradually became weaker, and eventually went bad after one year. It would not accept or hold a charge at the vendor, so they replaced it and I installed the new one. In usage, I note the amp meter shows a steady slight charge going into the battery, as opposed to previously. and after several days, my voltmeter does not show the new battery at a full six volts. The only parasite in my car is the clock which rewinds itself every two minutes. I drive the car a couple of times a week. I installed a new wiring harness couple of months ago and everything works correctly. I now disconnect the battery at night for fear of running it down. How can I use my voltmeter to look for a constant small drain somewhere? Thank you.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 06-03-2016 @ 9:43 AM |
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If you can see a slight current on the vehicles amp meter it is more than a "slight" current. I assume the volt meter you are referring to is one that came from some place like an electronics store and not the one in the car. Remove the battery cable and put the ammeter (you said voltmeter but I assume it will also measure amps) between the cable and the battery. I would start by removing the clock from the electrical system and work from there. Long shot, any chance your battery case is so dirty that the drain is around the outside of the case? There is also the possibility that the drain is internal to the battery, try leaving it disconnected for a week and check it. Do you have an alternator? I have read sometimes alternators do funny things but don't ask me for details, I use generators. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 6-3-16 @ 9:47 AM
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| cliftford | -- 06-03-2016 @ 10:56 AM |
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Beside the clock there are 4 circuits that I can think of that are live with the switch off. They are lights [of course] stop lights, horn, and interior lights, and any added accessories, such as fog lights. If your ammeter shows a current draw after you disconnect the clock, you might check these.
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| TomO | -- 06-03-2016 @ 1:08 PM |
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Use a test light connected between the disconnected Neg battery cable and the battery post. If there is a current draw, the light will light. Then you can disconnect circuits one at a time to find it. If there is no current draw, except when the clock winds, the battery has an internal short. Tom
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| silverchief | -- 06-05-2016 @ 7:46 AM |
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Thanks guys. I didn't disconnect my brand new Optima battery last night and it is stone dead this morning. That must be a significant drain. I will try your suggestions
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| silverchief | -- 06-05-2016 @ 7:54 AM |
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Also, my generator was rebuilt last year and has always performed well. Everything is six volts with no modifications of any kind. Most recent thing I did. Major wiring connectors are on the engine side of the firewall, just before going through into the cabin. Three times I found where two had pulled loose from their connectors, and I finally used heat shrink to hopefully hold them firmly. Even if one has pulled loose from it's connector again, I wouldn't think that would be the source of the drain.
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| silverchief | -- 06-05-2016 @ 9:08 AM |
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Sunday morning. Took Tom O's suggestion and verified a drain by connecting light between disconnected neg battery cable and it's post. Under our old axiom of it's probably the last thing you did, I removed the metal plate covering the junction of wires from the engine compartment with those coming from the cabin, at the firewall. The light immediately went out, indicating to me that one or more of those new wires was exposed just enough at it's connector to come into contact with the metal plate covering them. Once again I pushed them tight into their connectors, made single wrap of electrical tape, and glued a wide strip of Velcro inside the plate No more light and my battery is now happily accepting a charge. What would most of us do without this forum.
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| len47merc | -- 06-05-2016 @ 9:09 AM |
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silverchief - see my reply to the other active discussion today entitled '1940 Merc gel battery 6 volt where can I get on.' under the General Mercury Discussion section, originally posted by Rickauf. Though very unlikely to be identical root causes - it may be of some benefit to you. My drain caused by that root cause sounds very similar to yours in terms of time. If it is draining that fast something should be warm-t0-hot somewhere and may be - emphasis on 'may' - a quick way (finger touch), albeit quite rudimentary, to get to the root of your problem. Steve
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| silverchief | -- 06-05-2016 @ 9:15 AM |
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Thanks len47merc. See my post showing problem solved.
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| len47merc | -- 06-05-2016 @ 10:31 AM |
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Got it - looks like you and I were replying at the same time (9:08 & 9:09 am today, respectively) and I was not aware of your post at the time I hit 'Submit Reply'. Glad to see your problem's solved! TomO's 'da Man on these electrical problem sleuthing processes - I was following his advice and processes when I inadvertently stumbled on the source of my issue. Knew there was a drain using the same TomO process you followed but had no idea where it was at the time until the back of my hand alerted me to the heat. Cheers - Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-5-16 @ 10:36 AM
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| silverchief | -- 06-05-2016 @ 4:17 PM |
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Oops - appears I was wrong, a possible short where the metal plate covers the wire junctions is not the source of my drain. Back to the test light. It went out for the first time when I disconnected a single connection on the driver's side of the solenoid, for two wires - one small yellow with black tracer, and on plain larger yellow; The smaller yellow with the black tracer goes to Armature on the voltage regulator. The larger plain yellow goes to Batt on the regulator. I put the connection back on, and then working one at a time I first disconnected all wires at the generator. Light still on. I then disconnected the small yellow with black tracer at Arm on the regulator, test light still on. Then the larger yellow at Batt. Test light still on. I don't know where to go from here and will welcome any input.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 06-05-2016 @ 4:45 PM |
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I would still like to know the size of the drain in amps. That information might give me or other people ideas. I also made a couple of other comments and never got answers. In case you missed them I will repeat my earlier comments, "Long shot, any chance your battery case is so dirty that the drain is around the outside of the case? There is also the possibility that the drain is internal to the battery, try leaving it disconnected for a week and check it. Do you have an alternator? I have read sometimes alternators do funny things but don't ask me for details, I use generators". Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 6-5-16 @ 4:46 PM
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| len47merc | -- 06-05-2016 @ 6:09 PM |
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Gut feel - one at a time try disconnecting the floor high beam switch/button, then the radio. Question - is your radio (assuming you have one) hot when the ignition switch is off? Steve
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| deluxe40 | -- 06-05-2016 @ 7:59 PM |
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When I look at the 46-48 wiring schematic on vanpeltsales.com I see one large yellow wire going to the BAT side of the voltage regulator and a smaller yellow wire with a green tracer going to the horn relay rather than the armature. Have you checked that?
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| cliftford | -- 06-06-2016 @ 6:58 AM |
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The small yellow /green wire running from batt side of the solenoid to the arm. terminal on the regulator is bypassing the cutout relay in the regulator. I haven't researched it, but I believe that might cause a current drain.
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| TomO | -- 06-06-2016 @ 7:53 AM |
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deluxe40 traced the wiring correctly. Your solenoid should have 2 wires, a yellow wire and a yellow wire with a green tracer. The yellow wire goes to the ammeter loop and then to the circuit breaker for the lights. The yellow wire with the green tracer goes directly to the horn relay. If you remove the yellow wire with the green tracer, does the test light go out? If it does, reconnect it and see if your horns work. If the horns work, the wire is grounded somewhere between the solenoid and the horns. If your horns do not work, the wire from the horn ring could be shorted to ground or the horn relay could be bad. To check this disconnect the wire from the horn ring to the horn relay and check for the short again. If it is gone, the wire from the horn ring is grounded, if it is till there, the relay is probably bad. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 06-06-2016 @ 8:46 AM |
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Deleted - misread your earlier post silverchief. One of those 'neverminds'. TomO & deluxe40 have it for you. Your post above states both the wires from the battery side of the solenoid were attached directly to the voltage regulator. To restate an excerpt from what I did post and then delete earlier, no wires from the solenoid should be attached directly to the voltage regulator on a STOCK '46-'48 6V POSITIVE GROUND car. It may be easy to confuse them given the wire bundle from the solenoid crosses paths with the wire bundle from the regulator to the generator. Please confirm your car is in fact still stock in this regard. I recall from your post sometime late last year you had acquired an original '46 coupe and were questioning whether to restore or preserve it at the time - is this the same car and has it both been running and stayed original (as far as you know) since that time? Thanks - This message was edited by len47merc on 6-6-16 @ 9:17 AM
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| deluxe40 | -- 06-06-2016 @ 9:55 AM |
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Yes, I took another look at the schematic and see now that the fat yellow wire runs through the ammeter and then to the headlight breaker terminal on the way to the regulator as len47merc noted. I also notice that the same terminal feeds both the cigar lighter and the clock. That reminded me that I had this exact problem with the clock on a '46 Ford. When the clock was wound everything was fine. When the clock wound down the clock solenoid would engage and try to rewind it. If the clock did not rewind completely, current continued to flow though the clock solenoid. My next step on your car would be to remove the fuse from the clock wire.
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| len47merc | -- 06-06-2016 @ 10:31 AM |
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deluxe40 & silverchief - just to clarify that although some wiring schematics show a large yellow wire and a smaller wire, both original wires on my early '47's wiring harness, as well as a local colleague's '46 convertible, are #10 gauge yellow wire (one solid yellow and the other with green tracer). This is why I asked whether the car is still original or has been modified from stock in some way. Three wires (these two plus the center wire on the solenoid for the starter button) coming from the solenoid are bundled within one insulation that traverses the firewall and joins with wires coming out of the firewall from the lighting circuit junction box, with the solid yellow staying within the insulation and running through the firewall to the ammeter and then to the lighting breaker terminal. The yellow w/green tracer emerges from the insulation very near to where these bundles merge into one insulation cover and runs down to the frame, then forward and finally up to the horn relay (and then from the horn relay back through the firewall to the other components in the dash). What concerns me is silverchief's description of these wires coming from the battery side of the solenoid which raises three issues - one, that they are of of different sizes/gauges, two, that they are connected directly to the voltage regulator and 3, that the wire connected to the generator from the solenoid has a black tracer (no wire connected to the solenoid has a black tracer if original); hence why I asked whether the car is still stock or not. The wire leading from the VR 'ARM' to the generator 'ARM' - yes - is a #10 yellow with cross black tracer. Either I misread this, or if not, the car is wired quite incorrectly, or the car has been modified somehow or silverchief perhaps you have confused the wires with the voltage regulator-to-generator bundle where the two bundles cross paths just to the passenger side of the voltage regulator. Assuming some confusion may exist on where these wires actually run it appears you deluxe40 and TomO are definitely on the right track(s) and I need to step out of the way. I just can't get away from silverchief's observations of where these wires coming from the battery side of the solenoid are directly connected (voltage regulator), the varying sizes of the two yellow wires and the tracer color inconsistency. Something seems quite amiss here and I'd hate for anyone to spend too much time sleuthing this out further until these points - particularly the connections and stock 6V Pos Grnd - are clarified and confirmed. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-6-16 @ 11:55 AM
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| silverchief | -- 06-06-2016 @ 12:28 PM |
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In an effort to clarify things: First I am very appreciative of the thought and efforts you guys have put into this. Thank you. The car is entirely stock other then turn signals. Since installation of the new RI wiring harness three months ago everything has worked correctly. I may be wrong about one of the questioned wires running to the voltage regulator. The loom with the questioned wires becomes a larger loom running into the dash, and the large plain yellow may be coming from the cabin, rather than the solenoid Which makes me assume the large plain yellow from the solenoid must continue into the cabin, because I don't see it coming out. Also, I am color blind - so a black tracer and a green tracer all look the same to me. Lastly, I disconnected every wire at firewall bundle, which connects those wires coming from the cabin, joined with those from the engine compartment ........while watching the test light. It never went out, which would seem to just about eliminate a drain on either side. Still, my test light goes out when I disconnect the 3 wires coming into the driver's side of the solenoid. Still working on it.
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| silverchief | -- 06-06-2016 @ 12:59 PM |
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As a last resort, I disconnected the clock, because it is a real bear to remove that fuse, and it doesn't make sense to me that it would not have shown symptoms earlier. The test light is out. The fuse is good. I had the clock restored, and I really liked the fact that it worked. Hoping this is the answer, does this mean that I am just going to have without it? Again, thanks to all.
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| len47merc | -- 06-06-2016 @ 1:07 PM |
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Ok - thanks silverchief for that good feedback. Now, from your description earlier, you disconnected from the voltage regulator one, then two of the yellow wires you thought were connected to the driver's side of the solenoid. Reconnect them if you have not already. Can you disconnect one of the yellow wires from the solenoid at a time and check your light (doubtful given originality/1 terminal)? If not, leaving everything connected at the solenoid and disconnect the traced wire from the horn relay and check your light as TomO recommends, and the balance of his procedure if the results are consistent with his comments. If that does not solve the issue, follow deluxe40's comments (see page C-5, Fig C-4 of the '41-'48 Ford Book as well as http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1946-48car.jpg) chasing the same circuit past the horn relay to the other electrical components. Let us know of results. If that does not solve the issue, reconnect everything and disconnect the center, starter button wire from the solenoid and check your light. Let us know of results. If that does not solve the issue, look at page C-8, Fig C-7 of the '41-'48 Ford book and note which of the yellow wires connecting to the circuit breaker comes directly from the ammeter and disconnect it from the circuit breaker (disconnect the battery first) and, placing that wire's disconnected terminal in a safe, insulated location, reconnect the battery and check your light. If that solves the issue let us know and we'll go from there. If not... If none of this gets the light to go out we can discuss next steps with the solenoid, starter or both. Really wanting to see you get this solved. EDIT - after posting this reply I just read your reply about the clock. Fantastic! Sounds like you are there! If you need help with the clock let us know. Great news - thanks to TomO and deluxe40 for their sage and excellent advice there! Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-6-16 @ 1:11 PM
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| deluxe40 | -- 06-06-2016 @ 7:37 PM |
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I was never able to make my clock wind properly every time. I'm not a clock pro, but I cleaned the movement in an ammonia based clock cleaner and ran some 600 sandpaper through the points that close when the clock winds down, energizing the rewinding solenoid. Listening to it work I could tell when it had rewound properly (quiet ticking) and when it was hung up (a faint buzzing noise) so I put an inline switch in the wire to the clock so I could shut it off when it misbehaved. Later I could turn it on again and it would work for a while. Assuming that your results hold up and things work well for a few days with the clock disconnected, you should report your findings to the person who rebuilt your clock. It probably worked just fine for them on the test bench, as mine did. They might have a solution for the balky winding mechanism that they didn't implement because yours tested OK. I fear, however, that these early self-winding clock solenoids might have the same problems that Borg-Warner overdrive solenoids and original Ford coils have. They get tired after 70 years and quit working reliably. Might have something to do with the insulation on the windings.
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| Grant | -- 06-07-2016 @ 4:00 AM |
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We have always had lousy luck with any flathead Ford of Canada electric clock. They all worked for a while and then quit. The solution in a '50 and two '51s has been to install hand-wound Westclox versions, with the only six volt feed being to the light bulb. If the electrical drain in your vehicle does turn out to be a clock defect of some kind, might there be a correct original factory equipment hand-wound one available for you to use ?
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| cliftford | -- 06-07-2016 @ 6:52 AM |
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On my '48 I'm not too worried about originality, so I took the guts out of the original clock and adapted a quartz movement that uses one AA battery. It works like a charm and is almost undectible unless you look under the dash.
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| TomO | -- 06-07-2016 @ 7:08 AM |
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The clock should have a fuse that is 3 amps. This should blow if the clock is stuck. The most common problem with the rewind not working is the contact tension is not sufficient to make a good connection. The next most common is dirty or pitted contacts. There is a small coil spring in the clock that closes the contact points. If this spring is weak or too much metal is removed from the contacts, the armature will not get enough current to rewind the clock. I cleaned the clock in my 40 Merc in 1999 and it has never failed to wind. I do remove the fuse when I park the car and replace it only when I am going on a tour or a car show. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 06-07-2016 @ 7:44 AM |
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Echo TomO's comments with respect to my '47's original (& original electro-mechanical movement) clock, although I never remove the fuse but simply disconnect the battery. Understand his sound reasoning now on that though and may choose to follow his subtle process there as well. I have two clocks for my '47. The original sat in the car, both idled for just under 40 years, with 37K miles on the car back then - clock would stop/intermittently not wind upon bringing everything back to life. Had the clock cleaned 2 1/2 years ago by a professional and installed an identical back-up while the original was out that was last cleaned in 2004. The original had 2 worn pivots that needed replacing, both had new springs installed (back-up in 2004), both lubricated with dots on pivot points only of non-dust attractant synthetic clock oil. Both work as Tom describes his does without fail. My assumption on my original clock was it was not winding due to a solenoid/point issue, even though the fuse never blew. It turns out the two worn pivots were at times, apparently based on humidity and cleanliness (or lack thereof), stopping the clock and hence the spring would never unwind to the point that the points would close and rewind the clock. Under this condition the clock can be 'stuck' as Tom says without blowing the fuse. There was no battery drain associated with this root cause. Since you have a battery drain and apparently from your description the fuse is not blowing recommend you look carefully at the amp rating of the fuse you have and also truly what is shorting out/causing the drain. Basically it would seem if you have a 3 amp fuse installed and it is not blowing but the battery is draining then perhaps the wire or fuse case or something else was grounding out somewhere and when removing the fuse you may have removed the problem when moving the wires. Was anything warm/hot when you removed the fuse (assuming the battery was still connected)? EDIT - Does your clock's fuse case still have the insulating cover over it?, and was your clock running consistently without stopping before the battery drain started?, and lastly was it running and rewinding at the time you just disconnected it the other day and your 'TomO' test light went out? Assuming the answer is yes to the last two then perhaps you will not have to be without your running clock for too long by hopefully finding something simple like the fuse case or exposed wire was touching the dash somewhere. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-7-16 @ 8:04 AM
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| silverchief | -- 06-07-2016 @ 12:24 PM |
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The clock was keeping correct time and rewinding itself every two minutes when I took it out so I don't really see sending it in for repair or rebuild. I found paperwork showing it was rebuilt in 2004 by Williamson's Instruments in Arkansas. I think I will take the suggestion and look for a problem where it is fused into the dash wiring. I will report any final outcome. This message was edited by silverchief on 6-7-16 @ 12:27 PM
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| len47merc | -- 06-07-2016 @ 2:37 PM |
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Sure sounds that way and I hope so silverchief. My apologies for jumping ahead earlier and going prematurely down the high beam switch and radio routes (both similar problems a colleague had within the last year) - should have stayed logical and sequential like others did here. Hope to hear of your success - cheers Steve
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| silverchief | -- 06-10-2016 @ 10:58 AM |
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Len asked if the fuse case very close to the clock has a cover over it. It did not. Slipped a rubber cover over it on the rare chance it may have come into contact with the clock face. Straightened out all wiring coming into the clock ....and now there is no sign of a battery drain. What caused it? I have no idea, but it was bad enough to drain a brand new Optima overnight. The clock runs fine and I have checked several times with a test light for battery drain - none. Unhooked a lot of wires, unplugged a lot of connections, double checked many things.......before going to my only parasite - the clock. Next time I will try to start with the obvious first. Thanks for all your help.
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| len47merc | -- 06-10-2016 @ 11:35 AM |
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That's great news silverchief! For what it's worth I'll attach a few photos of exactly what I was referring to. The first is a pic of a colleague's '46 - note how the fuse holder was found without any insulating cover and bent toward the rear of the clock. He'd purchased a rebuilt clock and upon reinstalling he left the fuse casing as you see - with the casing and a very small bit of exposed wire on the top making contact with the clock and draining his battery. Also note the tag end of the clock wiring harness was caught on the larger wiring harness for the car which further forced the fuse and holder into the back of the clock. On the longer fuse holders, like the one for my '47 you will see below, they are long enough to reach the mounting bracket and possibly stud the clock is mounted to and I have to be careful to ensure the wire is routed toward the front of the car to ensure no accidental contact occurs. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-10-16 @ 12:00 PM
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| len47merc | -- 06-10-2016 @ 11:41 AM |
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Here's a pic of the original wiring harness from my '47 Merc I had out when working on my clock. Note the original long insulating sleeve that fits over the fuse holder as well as the insulating sleeve that fits over the fuse - without either there is a (strong - maybe) potential for a short/battery drain to occur, particularly if the wire with the fuse holder is not routed into floating, free space. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 6-10-16 @ 12:01 PM
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| len47merc | -- 06-10-2016 @ 11:42 AM |
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Ooops - Hit submit instead of browse. Here's the pic. Steve
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| len47merc | -- 06-10-2016 @ 11:47 AM |
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Here's the harness with the original insulating sleeve on the holder and the fuse and fuse sleeve inside. The insulating sleeves, like the wires, are old and fragile but still work. Steve
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| len47merc | -- 06-10-2016 @ 11:47 AM |
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Dang it - did it again. Senility. Here's the pic. Steve
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| TomO | -- 06-11-2016 @ 7:13 AM |
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The insulating cover for the fuse should keep the fuse holder from having voltage on it. With the sleeve in place, the only exposed part of the fuse is the 2 ends for contact with the wires. The external cover for the fuse holder is a good idea. I don't remember my 47 Mercury having one. If Ford supplied them, one of the previous owners must have discarded or lost it. Tom
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| len47merc | -- 06-11-2016 @ 10:25 AM |
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Tom - I posted the pics for just that reason as perhaps silver chief's clock is missing one or both of the covers/sleeves of which he may not even have been aware of their existence. The fuse sleeve in particular as you know could be a root cause of his if it were/is missing. I purchased an identical rebuilt back-up clock 2 years ago for my '47 Merc Tom for back-up use and to fill the hole in the dash while the original was out being cleaned and preserved. The back-up also has both the fuse sleeve and the fuse holder cover as well. I've never read or seen any documentation confirming the originality of these parts - given my only experience is with these two Merc clocks (both have date codes of Dec '46) and both clocks have these items, and the sleeves and covers all exhibit the same patina, 'crispness', form/fit and 'fragility' I assume they are the original design and parts. Have never seen them at swap meets or available for sale at the typical sources we use but perhaps they're still out there. Steve
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| silverchief | -- 06-12-2016 @ 11:52 AM |
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Very informative information and great photos. Thanks very much. I don't have, and was unaware of the fuse sleeve, but I have checked several times for a drain after putting a rubber sleeve over the holder itself, with good results. The clock is running and my battery has not gone dead overnight. Fingers crossed, ....but if this problem crops up again I will know where to start.
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| silverchief | -- 09-16-2016 @ 2:33 PM |
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I am still struggling with a drain in my 46 coupe. Optima battery was running down unless I disconnected at night. Vendor charged it overnight and pronounced it good. New harness installed in August. Excepting the drain, everything on the car, including the clock, works correctly. Using a test light, it goes out when the large yellow, and smaller yellow with green are removed from the solenoid. They us a single connector. Reconnect - yellow with green goes to horn relay. Disconnect at relay - light still on. The 3 connecting posts on the circuit breaker are labeled A, B, and H on my schematic. Large yellow goes through amp meter, then to Post A on circuit breaker. Disconnect - at post A, light goes out. Although new, to make sure the wire itself was not grounded en route, I ran a test wire direct from the solenoid to Post A. Test light on until disconnected, then went out. Three other wires connect to the A post - clock, cigar lighter, and ignition switch. Assuming one ground from any would affect all wires on the post, I disconnected each. Test light still on with large yellow connected by itself. Large yellow goes on from the circuit breaker to the cutout on the voltage regulator. I removed this connection. Light still on. I have also removed connection to dash light rheostat, and all connections at the headlight switch without success. I didn't remove the high beam switch because I see no connection between it and the circuit breaker. I have yet to disconnect the brake light switch - which works correctly. With installation of new harness, I replaced the old warped circuit breaker with a later model, that has no metal cage. I hesitate to believe the problem is with the circuit breaker itself, because EVERYTHING on the car works as it should. All suggestions are appreciated.
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| MG | -- 09-16-2016 @ 4:11 PM |
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Does your car have a radio?
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| len47merc | -- 09-17-2016 @ 5:11 AM |
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silverchief - this was/is now a very long and mildly dated thread that may not be fresh on everyones' minds. I reread all 4 pages this morning and want to make sure you have 'gone back to the drawing board' and re-read and re-addressed everything in this thread including references to other threads (with pictures) before others start repeating what has already been recommended. Reviewing - clock, radio (including floor button switch), horn, cigar lighter, high/low beam switch(es) and ballast resistor 'shorts' and simple wiring harness connection errors are typical (but not the only) causes. With a charged and connected battery have you now 'felt' around for warm/hot spots in addition to using the drain test light? With it draining that quickly something somewhere will surely have some (possibly significant and dangerous) heat to it (EDIT - this is how I stumbled across my drain with the back of my hand referenced earlier in this thread). I did not see (perhaps I missed it) where you confirmed your wiring harnesses were correctly connected - specifically the main wiring harness through the firewall versus the smaller three-wire bundle from the voltage regulator to the coil & generator (you mentioned a color-blindness issue there as well). Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 9-17-16 @ 5:30 AM
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| TomO | -- 09-17-2016 @ 8:03 AM |
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Bill, Check your wiring diagram, the one on Vanpelts site shows that the wires you have on the "A" terminal belong on the "B" terminal. The wires from the "A" terminal feed the light switch, brake light switch, glove box light switch and the pillar light switch. Tom
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| silverchief | -- 09-17-2016 @ 10:20 AM |
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Tom, You are right - according to my diagram they are on the wrong terminal. But wouldn't that many wires on the wrong terminals have caused problems before now? And can I switch them without ruining something? Bill
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| silverchief | -- 09-17-2016 @ 10:37 AM |
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Steve. I worked with a buddy installing the harness, because he is a lot younger than me bends easier. He was very conscientious to detail and careful in following the Rhode Island blueprint. For this reason and the fact that the car operates as it should, I have not questioned correct installation. Although the vendor pronounced it good, two people have told me Optima sold out, and the new owners have had quality control issues with the product since taking over. When I took it out of my car and drove 20 minutes to the vendor, it was still noticeably warm to the touch, and I'm not sure that should be - so I still suspect it. Next thing I am going to is work with the observation from Tom O. Thanks very much for your help Steve.
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| len47merc | -- 09-17-2016 @ 11:54 AM |
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Tom's one of, if not THE, best on the Forum here on electrical issues and related troubleshooting processes. You'll get where you want to be quickly following his advice. Looking forward to hearing of your ultimate success! Steve
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| Drbrown | -- 09-17-2016 @ 9:18 PM |
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Not too important here, and someone may correct me, but I understand that Johnson Contols bought Optima, then they moved to Canada and shifted production of the batteries to Mexico. There have been warranty coverage and enforcement issues with some distributors, i.e. Amazon.
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| MG | -- 09-17-2016 @ 10:29 PM |
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Johnson Controls Announces Acquisition of Gylling Optima Batteries AB http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/johnson-controls-announces-acquisition-of-gylling-optima-batteries-ab-73050742.html And, Made In Mexico > http://techtank.news/new-plant-process-enables-employees-achieve-manufacturing-excellence/ This message was edited by MG on 9-17-16 @ 10:45 PM
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| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9745 |