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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Water Pumps

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Water Pumps -- page: 1 2     40 Coupe 03-14-2016 @ 5:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1688 Joined: Oct 2009 I agree on sending the pumps to George Skip Haney but make sure they are original to your cars manufacturer date and not much later either Ford replacement or aftermarket. So do some research to find out what the original pumps and pulleys look like. drkbp 03-13-2016 @ 12:26 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 I hear you on the leaky pump. Fix or replace them both if you can. Candy thermometer is a better way to say it. Senior moment... You have a very solid original car that has been cared for and the flush sounds good too. No reason not to enjoy that one for sure! Wow on Gramps and the big brass Olds! I drove an early Ford brass car with the acetylene headlights and kerosene cowl and tail lights to church last night. Not nearly as impressive as that massive Olds but quite a site to see when a brass car is "all lit up". It didn't freeze here this "winter". Watch out mosquitoes! Ken in Texas TomO 03-13-2016 @ 11:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7271 Joined: Oct 2009 Here is a link to BD site and the deflectors that he sells for the 49 models. http://www.bobdrake.com/Categories2.aspx?Id=d64e455b-94fa-452c-a37d-6894b9bc7e73 You can check the airflow through the radiator by holding a piece of paper in front of the radiator with the car idling, the fan should suck to the radiator and hold it there. The fan is only operative at low speeds, above 15 mph it doesn't have any effect. If you have an infra-red heat sensor or a contact thermometer, you can measure the heat drop across the radiator, by measuring the temp of the bottom tank, jut in front of the lower hoses and the upper tank just in front of the upper hoses. It should be at least 10 degrees difference. A candy thermometer is an accurate way to measure coolant temperature. If your car has the original water pumps, they should be rebuilt or replaced. The impellers are probably worn and causing air bubbles in your coolant. Your car should run down the at 35-40 mph at 160-180 with no thermostats or 160 thermostats. If it does not, you have a water flow problem. Water pumps and radiator are the chief suspects. Tom 39Fordfan 03-13-2016 @ 11:08 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 Earlier,I posted a picture of my Dad with the '39 Deluxe as he was getting ready to ship out to England for WWII. This '39 is the object of these posts. Here is another picture of my Great Grandfather with a 1907 Oldsmobile. He was probably the first Olds dealer in the Midwest and he helped my Dad get his one year old '39 Ford as a 16 year old in 1940. 39Fordfan 03-13-2016 @ 11:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi Ken, Being from Texas, I do think you are much more of an expert on hot days than we are up here in Minnesota, though it can get hot enough here to make you forget about the winter, surprisingly enough. I will take a closer look at the radiator and do what you suggest regarding the temperature. I've gotten comments from old timers regarding the originality of the radiator. I know its been re-cored in its past, but it certainly could be my problem. One of my pumps are starting to leak, so I wanted to figure them out first. Thanks to everyone for your replies. Its all very useful! 39Fordfan 03-13-2016 @ 10:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 Old Henry, Thanks so much for that! I do think the cooling system is ready for a back flush. My car doesn't have a heater or heater core, but I'll figure it out. 39Fordfan 03-13-2016 @ 10:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi TomO, Thank-you for always taking the time to reply to my queries. I'll take another look at cleaning the radiator again. It does have a crank mounted fan. It doesn't seem to be bent or altered in any way, but it does seem to be a bit far away from the radiator to draw a lot of air through it. The deflector you mentioned. Is that something you can purchase somewhere, if so, any suggestions as to where? Or did you make one yourself? Do you have any pictures of it? Thanks for the article, very interesting! drkbp 03-13-2016 @ 10:40 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 Hello 39FordFan, There is really only one good way to enjoy your old Ford. Have a good set of tires on it, a good radiator in it and it will sit in your driveway and idle for thirty minutes and NOT boil. A good radiator will let you idle for an extended period of time and you can check the car with a plain old kitchen thermometer. It's an inexpensive way to check the car's cooling system. First, check the kitchen thermometer with a couple of thermostats you need anyway. I would set the car in the driveway and check the temperature running "at idle" with the kitchen thermometer. Raise the hood, take the radiator cap off and stick it in there. It should not boil. I am with Kubes40 too, if your car is setup "correct" there is NO need for high speed water pumps, water wetter, etc. The Ford V8 doesn't run hot unless it is not "correct" and part of "correct" includes the radiator. The first myth to dispel is they "all run hot". They don't if they are set up as Ford designed the car and the radiator does its job. I run 160 degree thermostats in a 21-stud engine. I have had the '35 Cabriolet since 1974. I don't know how to search the old posts but sometime in the last couple of years I posted temps recorded "running at idle" in the driveway on that car. The V8's '37 and later have even a better cooling arrangement than the '35. Essentially, that '35 will sit in the driveway with one-half hood up, 74 degrees ambient or so, and idle for an hour and NOT boil. It is stock, 50/50 ethylene glycol antifreeze, with Western Auto water pumps and Bridgeport "Standard" (160's) thermostats. The one caveat is if there is ANY breeze at all, do not let it be a tail wind to the car. Other than that, it just sits there and runs. I have several "wall hanger" radiators that "look great" but don't cool and others have already said why. I also know that a new radiator is a lot of money and many budgets have difficulty with that, mine included. I don't change a water pump unless it "leaks or squeaks". If the '39 driveway idles hot and boils, you have other problems that a water pump doesn't solve. I put my guess on the radiator if the distributor is set up properly. Let us know what the kitchen thermometer says. I am a little suspect of the auto part temp gages. Ken in Texas 39Fordfan 03-13-2016 @ 10:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 202 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi @kubes40, Thanks so much for your reply! I was leaning towards sending them to Skip. Its just that a couple of local guys had really outstanding results from the water pumps they got from DC. One of my pumps is starting to leak a bit, so I figured I'm going to have to do it anyways. When you mentioned the thermostats, is there a small housing for them, or do they simply fit in-line? I am in no way challenging your idea or experience regarding using them. I know you weren't suggesting I do it to my car, but it seems counter-intuitive to stick thermostats in an engine that will overheat if left to idle too long even on a cool or mild day. That's why I never did it. I can't say if this engine was properly rebuilt, etc. It was my Dad's car, which he got when he was 16 years old in 1940 from my Grandpa who bought it new in 1939. It is a very original car and what has been done do it has been mostly lost to the ages. What I can say is that the temp will rocket right up to 210 and I'm pretty sure right past it. I just don't want an expensive engine rebuild because I somehow get caught napping or stuck in a construction zone. Old Henry 03-12-2016 @ 3:44 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 738 Joined: Apr 2010 Here's that backflush method of mine referred to: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83557 This message was edited by Old Henry on 3-12-16 @ 3:44 PM

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