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Discussion Topic:
Rear main seal
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dtownes |
10-06-2009 @ 2:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2009
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Sometime past couple years I recall seeing an article, maybe Red's Engine talk or Dick Flynn's Tech Tips --- step by step guide to rear main seal replacement. Can anybody refer me there? 37 Pickup 85. We're starting such project and need all the help we can get. Thanks
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supereal |
10-06-2009 @ 5:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Are you rebuilding the engine, or want to just replace the seal? Most rear main seals leak, anyway, often because the oil pan is overfilled. The proper amount is 4 quarts, unless you have a filter, then it is 5. If you put in 5 quarts without a filter, it will leak badly.
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BrianCT |
10-07-2009 @ 7:51 AM
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A 21 stud 1937 engine does not have a seal if original.
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supereal |
10-07-2009 @ 8:33 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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That is why they leak so badly when overfilled. Old Henry seemed to distrust seals in favor of slingers. Remember the old saying about Fords: "If it ain't leakin', it probably needs fixin'". If you have an old Ford, chances are your garage floor is protected with lots of cardboard.
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51f1 |
10-08-2009 @ 2:24 AM
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Senior
Posts: 573
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I's kinda like Harley motorcycles: If it ain't leaking, it's out of oil.
Richard
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BrianCT |
10-08-2009 @ 4:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
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OK, if no one else is going to defend the 21 stud, I will. I have had 2 engines in my 34 and only a very small oil spot on floor.
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supereal |
10-08-2009 @ 9:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The 21 stud engine is perfectly good, but the slinger- type rear main seal will never contain an overfill of the oil pan beyond 4 quarts. Too many manuals give an incorrect fill as 5 quarts, which is OK if you have a filter, but almost none of those engines were so equipped unless the filter from the later 24 stud models was added. The later, rope style, seals did a better job, but most seep a bit, particularly if the main bearing thrust clearance is out of spec. If so, the simple act of pushing the clutch pedal can cause the crank to move enough to allow oil to get by. That is why there is a hole in the bottom of the clutch hosing, with a cotter pin to keep it clear.
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dtownes |
10-12-2009 @ 7:10 AM
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Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks to you all - very instructive. Will obviously try full draining and 4 Qt refill. After tht, maybe happy to just let it drip, and save a lot of headache.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
10-12-2009 @ 4:45 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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hi if you have a clogged breather, this will cause a pressure build up in the engine and cause the oil to leak out,and the rear main is where is most likley to take place in the V8 FLATHEAD, check out the oil filler cap and the breather on the oil pan , to see if any restrictions, do you have a steep drive way, on the way to the garage, this will also aid in oil leaking,because of the angle when climing up the steep drive way. hope this might help. 37RAGTOPMAN,MAINE
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Chevguy49Ford |
10-20-2009 @ 9:49 AM
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Member
Posts: 70
Joined: Oct 2009
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Does this apply to a 49 Flathead as well? Mine drops a bit of oil and I was thinking of going at it this winter.
Cheers, Scott. 1949 Custom Tudor. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e42/35thLE/49016.jpg
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