| dtownes | -- 10-06-2009 @ 2:12 PM |
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Sometime past couple years I recall seeing an article, maybe Red's Engine talk or Dick Flynn's Tech Tips --- step by step guide to rear main seal replacement. Can anybody refer me there? 37 Pickup 85. We're starting such project and need all the help we can get. Thanks
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| supereal | -- 10-06-2009 @ 5:10 PM |
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Are you rebuilding the engine, or want to just replace the seal? Most rear main seals leak, anyway, often because the oil pan is overfilled. The proper amount is 4 quarts, unless you have a filter, then it is 5. If you put in 5 quarts without a filter, it will leak badly.
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| BrianCT | -- 10-07-2009 @ 7:51 AM |
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A 21 stud 1937 engine does not have a seal if original.
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| supereal | -- 10-07-2009 @ 8:33 AM |
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That is why they leak so badly when overfilled. Old Henry seemed to distrust seals in favor of slingers. Remember the old saying about Fords: "If it ain't leakin', it probably needs fixin'". If you have an old Ford, chances are your garage floor is protected with lots of cardboard.
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| 51f1 | -- 10-08-2009 @ 2:24 AM |
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I's kinda like Harley motorcycles: If it ain't leaking, it's out of oil. Richard
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| BrianCT | -- 10-08-2009 @ 4:32 AM |
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OK, if no one else is going to defend the 21 stud, I will. I have had 2 engines in my 34 and only a very small oil spot on floor.
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| supereal | -- 10-08-2009 @ 9:31 AM |
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The 21 stud engine is perfectly good, but the slinger- type rear main seal will never contain an overfill of the oil pan beyond 4 quarts. Too many manuals give an incorrect fill as 5 quarts, which is OK if you have a filter, but almost none of those engines were so equipped unless the filter from the later 24 stud models was added. The later, rope style, seals did a better job, but most seep a bit, particularly if the main bearing thrust clearance is out of spec. If so, the simple act of pushing the clutch pedal can cause the crank to move enough to allow oil to get by. That is why there is a hole in the bottom of the clutch hosing, with a cotter pin to keep it clear.
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| dtownes | -- 10-12-2009 @ 7:10 AM |
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Thanks to you all - very instructive. Will obviously try full draining and 4 Qt refill. After tht, maybe happy to just let it drip, and save a lot of headache.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 10-12-2009 @ 4:45 PM |
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hi if you have a clogged breather, this will cause a pressure build up in the engine and cause the oil to leak out,and the rear main is where is most likley to take place in the V8 FLATHEAD, check out the oil filler cap and the breather on the oil pan , to see if any restrictions, do you have a steep drive way, on the way to the garage, this will also aid in oil leaking,because of the angle when climing up the steep drive way. hope this might help. 37RAGTOPMAN,MAINE
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| Chevguy49Ford | -- 10-20-2009 @ 9:49 AM |
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Does this apply to a 49 Flathead as well? Mine drops a bit of oil and I was thinking of going at it this winter. Cheers, Scott. 1949 Custom Tudor. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e42/35thLE/49016.jpg
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| 51f1 | -- 10-20-2009 @ 10:56 AM |
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The '49 has a rope seal. That's better than a slinger, but if you can install one w/o any leaks, you're a lot better mechanic than I. But it shouldn't leak much. Mine leaks enough that I can wipe oil off of the bell housing and transmission every once and a while. And there are a few drips on the garage floor, but not much. My front seal doesn't leak at all. When you install the rear seal, be sure to put a little sealant between the bearing cap and the block. Richard
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| efv8 | -- 10-20-2009 @ 1:16 PM |
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You can search on this site for the article! Go to V-8 TIMES section in the Main Menu. Then click on Searchable Index. Type in the key words you are looking for and the article information will pop up. NOT the article, but the information about where it was published: which V-8 Times issue and the date. Then you can ask specifically if anyone has that V-8 TIMES. Or you can check your own library. EFV8 Website Administration
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| silverchief | -- 10-21-2009 @ 12:15 PM |
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Thanks guys, I think I overfilled on last change, and I have a long hill en route to my garage. Now I will avoid both. Attached see photo of my little jewel - which without this forum would not be giving me the hours of pleasure that it does.
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| RG/NJ | -- 10-21-2009 @ 12:51 PM |
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I just installed a newly rebuilt 40 enjine in my 40. I took it out for its 1st ride today. Went about 30 miles and back in the garage. Saw 4 oil spots on the driveway. Looked under the car and oil was dripping from the cotter pin in the pan. Dipstick shows oil level just below the full mark. Do i have a big problem here? Thanks for any suggestions.
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-21-2009 @ 1:39 PM |
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RG, many times the dripyou describe is caused by an overfilled crankcase. A flathead without an oil filter should have 4 qts of oil. With an oil filter, 5 qts. Factory literature is incorrect, and some dipsticks are not original. You'll want to change your oil soon for a new rebuild, and when you fill it, mark the dipstick at the correct level. Alan
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| coftbird | -- 10-22-2009 @ 9:19 AM |
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This is not meant as an argument to anyone, but just my experience: I have erroneously been using five quarts of oil in my '37 21 stud without filter. I realized recently (on this forum) that is incorrect. But it has caused me no problems so I have continued to do it. Just made a 3900 mile trip, 26,000 mile on engine when I started, it used just less than one quart of oil on that trip which included mountain driving and 70 mph Interstate driving. And it does leak oil on garage floor cardboard. Charlie
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-22-2009 @ 8:47 PM |
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Charlie, I don't see an argument, I see a discussion. Your using a qt of oil on your trip may simply indicate an "attitude adjustment" to your oil level. an overabundance of oil is certainly better than not enough to do the job, and if you don't mind the drip, it's all good. Alan
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