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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Master Electric Disconnect Switch

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shogun1940
11-01-2015 @ 2:58 AM
Member
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
          
I have marine switch mounted in the car,, encased in plastic ,made in the u.s.a. and a large amp capacity, Quick shut off in case of a fire.

capitann
10-30-2015 @ 8:57 AM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Apr 2015
          
I have used the type of disconnect that is activated by a hidden "pillow switch" and it performed flawlessly. Hiding the solenoid takes a lot of "standing in the shower"time, however.

Drbrown
10-29-2015 @ 11:16 AM
Senior
Posts: 570
Joined: Nov 2013
          
MG: Will take and post a couple pic's asap. Car is napping in it's garage about a quarter mile away.

Model B: Thanks; Good to know.

This message was edited by Drbrown on 10-29-15 @ 11:17 AM

Model B
10-29-2015 @ 4:35 AM
Member
Posts: 90
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have been using a similar switch, only without the smaller generator/alternator posts. I have one my 1932 Ford 12 volt system, hidden under the front passenger seat, and I have one on my 1950 Ford 6 volt system installed under the hood near the battery. The one on the '32 has been there nearly 30 years with no problems and the one on the '50 has been there for about 2 years with no problems. They work very well. Pat

MG
10-28-2015 @ 11:25 PM
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Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Drbrown - If you can, please post some pictures of your installation....

Drbrown
10-28-2015 @ 6:36 PM
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Posts: 570
Joined: Nov 2013
          
MG: When seeing the photo my impression was also that the switch and posts are smaller than they actually are. Without actually measuring it, the body of the switch is at least a 3 inch diameter. The two threaded battery terminals are abt 3/8 inch diameter and my cables fit properly on them. Except for the two alternator connections, the switch is installed and working. Need to reroute and upgrade the alternator wiring, then will be done.

MG
10-28-2015 @ 4:38 PM
Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Looking at the picture of that switch, it's terminals look too small to attach battery cables to it....

Drbrown
10-28-2015 @ 4:03 PM
Senior
Posts: 570
Joined: Nov 2013
          
Want to note my personal experiences/concerns that influenced me to choose this particular switch .... (1) With former thumb-screw disconnect device on the battery terminal, had to open/close my hood each time I took the car out and returned it [new hinges/springs = sagging hood = head bruises]; (2) Due to poor design/manufacture, the connection between that thumb-screw device [of Chinese origin] and connecting cable would loosen over time. Then the engine would not start and I would need to tighten it where ever the situation happened [rarely at home]; (3) That poor connection also reduced the charge going to the battery from my alternator; and (4) I was concerned about forum comments re the possibility of the alternator keeping the engine running after the ignition was turned off and/or battery disconnected .... never had it happen but ....

The manual switch knob is located in the passenger compartment, upper right side of the heater, reasonably convenient, and out-of-sight to those that might wish to steal the car. My car came to me with a 12v system and (small) 55 amp 3-wire Delco alternator.

This message was edited by Drbrown on 10-28-15 @ 4:17 PM

len47merc
10-28-2015 @ 6:51 AM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
After reading on this extensively earlier via searches on this forum as well as posting a specific question personally here and getting very good input from Concourse and non-Concourse owners, I ultimately decided that since the hood had to be opened to disconnect the battery, regardless of whether switched or not, it was equally efficient to keep a 1/2" closed/open end wrench near the passenger side of the car in the garage as well as one in the trunk and simply reconnect/disconnect the negative cable with every drive. You are guaranteed the best possible connection and do not have to worry about load-carrying capacity and time. Also, never found a switch that I could trust, especially for a stock 6V system and loads. Have followed this procedure for over two years now with dozens upon dozens of drives and the negative cable, bolt and nut remain as robust as the day of first install. Many others have much more extensive experience than me using this process and have shared the same results on this forum. For what it's worth - my two cents.

Steve

40cpe
10-28-2015 @ 6:35 AM
Member
Posts: 472
Joined: Jan 2010
          
here is a link to a picture and on-line source. Note that the 1000 amp rating is for intermittent use. Pollak says for 20 sec, then wait 5 min.
http://www.partdeal.com/pollak-battery-master-disconnect-switch-51-918.html?zmam=74973193&zmas=1&zmac=4&zmap=77192556&gclid=CLCm9_ui5cgCFUUdgQodAVgFEA

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