| Drbrown | -- 10-27-2015 @ 11:10 PM |
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Have been using a thumb-screw disconnect device on my negative-ground battery terminal (12v system). Its location at the battery has been inconvenient. After reading postings about disconnect switches, I installed a 4-pole 1000 amp rated switch by Pollak as sold by Performance Dynamics of VA .... Two poles for battery; two for alternator. Using an existing 3/4 inch knock-out plug in the firewall, the on/off knob is conveniently located at the right side of the heater. Because I wanted to include the Alternator, the disconnect is now located in the positive side of the battery. Although relatively "stock" I do not have a "concourse" grade car. Regardless, considering the low cost and minor rewiring, I think the convenience and possible safety benefit was well worth this kind of effort.
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| MG | -- 10-27-2015 @ 11:39 PM |
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Show us some pictures of your installation....And, how about some part numbers or a link to the components you used....
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| 40cpe | -- 10-28-2015 @ 6:35 AM |
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here is a link to a picture and on-line source. Note that the 1000 amp rating is for intermittent use. Pollak says for 20 sec, then wait 5 min. http://www.partdeal.com/pollak-battery-master-disconnect-switch-51-918.html?zmam=74973193&zmas=1&zmac=4&zmap=77192556&gclid=CLCm9_ui5cgCFUUdgQodAVgFEA
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| len47merc | -- 10-28-2015 @ 6:51 AM |
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After reading on this extensively earlier via searches on this forum as well as posting a specific question personally here and getting very good input from Concourse and non-Concourse owners, I ultimately decided that since the hood had to be opened to disconnect the battery, regardless of whether switched or not, it was equally efficient to keep a 1/2" closed/open end wrench near the passenger side of the car in the garage as well as one in the trunk and simply reconnect/disconnect the negative cable with every drive. You are guaranteed the best possible connection and do not have to worry about load-carrying capacity and time. Also, never found a switch that I could trust, especially for a stock 6V system and loads. Have followed this procedure for over two years now with dozens upon dozens of drives and the negative cable, bolt and nut remain as robust as the day of first install. Many others have much more extensive experience than me using this process and have shared the same results on this forum. For what it's worth - my two cents. Steve
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| Drbrown | -- 10-28-2015 @ 4:03 PM |
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Want to note my personal experiences/concerns that influenced me to choose this particular switch .... (1) With former thumb-screw disconnect device on the battery terminal, had to open/close my hood each time I took the car out and returned it [new hinges/springs = sagging hood = head bruises]; (2) Due to poor design/manufacture, the connection between that thumb-screw device [of Chinese origin] and connecting cable would loosen over time. Then the engine would not start and I would need to tighten it where ever the situation happened [rarely at home]; (3) That poor connection also reduced the charge going to the battery from my alternator; and (4) I was concerned about forum comments re the possibility of the alternator keeping the engine running after the ignition was turned off and/or battery disconnected .... never had it happen but .... The manual switch knob is located in the passenger compartment, upper right side of the heater, reasonably convenient, and out-of-sight to those that might wish to steal the car. My car came to me with a 12v system and (small) 55 amp 3-wire Delco alternator. This message was edited by Drbrown on 10-28-15 @ 4:17 PM
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| MG | -- 10-28-2015 @ 4:38 PM |
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Looking at the picture of that switch, it's terminals look too small to attach battery cables to it....
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| Drbrown | -- 10-28-2015 @ 6:36 PM |
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MG: When seeing the photo my impression was also that the switch and posts are smaller than they actually are. Without actually measuring it, the body of the switch is at least a 3 inch diameter. The two threaded battery terminals are abt 3/8 inch diameter and my cables fit properly on them. Except for the two alternator connections, the switch is installed and working. Need to reroute and upgrade the alternator wiring, then will be done.
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| MG | -- 10-28-2015 @ 11:25 PM |
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Drbrown - If you can, please post some pictures of your installation....
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| Model B | -- 10-29-2015 @ 4:35 AM |
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I have been using a similar switch, only without the smaller generator/alternator posts. I have one my 1932 Ford 12 volt system, hidden under the front passenger seat, and I have one on my 1950 Ford 6 volt system installed under the hood near the battery. The one on the '32 has been there nearly 30 years with no problems and the one on the '50 has been there for about 2 years with no problems. They work very well. Pat
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| Drbrown | -- 10-29-2015 @ 11:16 AM |
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MG: Will take and post a couple pic's asap. Car is napping in it's garage about a quarter mile away. Model B: Thanks; Good to know. This message was edited by Drbrown on 10-29-15 @ 11:17 AM
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| capitann | -- 10-30-2015 @ 8:57 AM |
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I have used the type of disconnect that is activated by a hidden "pillow switch" and it performed flawlessly. Hiding the solenoid takes a lot of "standing in the shower"time, however.
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| shogun1940 | -- 11-01-2015 @ 2:58 AM |
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I have marine switch mounted in the car,, encased in plastic ,made in the u.s.a. and a large amp capacity, Quick shut off in case of a fire.
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