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Discussion Topic:
36 flathead running on 7 cylinders
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Buckd44 |
10-28-2015 @ 7:48 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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Yes, they are tightly secured. I belive the consensus is, it needs to be sent off to be rebuilt.
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TomO |
10-28-2015 @ 7:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Are you sure that the caps are fully seated into the distributor body? If they are, I suggest that you have the distributor serviced. You may have wear in the bushings or the shaft.
Tom
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ken ct. |
10-27-2015 @ 1:30 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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That rotor doesn't look too good. I would also get rid of that too thick cork gasket between the coil and dist body. I have thinner rubber ones work better and also have good nos rotors . Atip from a rebuilder get a pc. of shrink tubing and shrink it over the center section of the shaft under the rotor. Have those also cut to correct length and diam for installation. Always set point gap with coil scr*w*d down in place. ken ct .Also axiel play in shaft must be kept to a minimum with shim washers between the rotor end and the bushing with the flange on it. ken ct.
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MG |
10-27-2015 @ 11:06 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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If you've never torn into a distributor before, I recommend you send it off to either Skip Haney or Bubbas Ignition for repair and setup... This link for Skip > http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm This link for Bubbas > www.bubbashotrodshop.com
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Buckd44 |
10-27-2015 @ 10:07 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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Update, I installed new inner and out caps, new o-ring and gaskets, and new wires. Ran everything outside of the conduit. I still have no spark on #7 and now #4. I have continuity from inside cap to spark plug ends. I took the new caps off, I noticed there isnt a mark or residue on the inner cap prongs. I assume my next step is to install a new rotor?? Thanks, Nate
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TomO |
10-25-2015 @ 9:23 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Nate, your photo of the rotor did not show the contact for the cap contacts closest to the block. This is where n0 7 cylinder wire goes. Try holding the wire to no 7 plug near a head nut to check the spark. If it is still weak, check to see that the spark is not leaking to the conduit. Run the wire outside of the conduit. The wires for the plugs should snap in the cap. It is possible to have a continuity checker show continuity but the wire will still be loose and give a weak spark.
Tom
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Buckd44 |
10-25-2015 @ 5:52 AM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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I have a spark plug clip. Spark plugs are good, I've switched them around. Gap makes sense. I'll play with it today and update what I find.
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40 Coupe |
10-25-2015 @ 4:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
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How are you viewing the spark at the plugs? It could be possible you have a bad plug. Did you swap to another plug that sparks better? It could also be the gap between the rotor and the #7 inner cap terminal is too large.
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Buckd44 |
10-24-2015 @ 7:44 PM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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Yes, new oring, the old outer cap was broken and didn't have an o ring. Like I said I have continuity between the end cap and wire. Also new gasket between outer and inner cap. I'm confused as well. I'll tear it apart tomorrow and try the other cap I bought. Thanks Nate
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MG |
10-24-2015 @ 6:33 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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I'm hard pressed to think it could be the rotor as each rotor contact is common to 4 inner cap contacts - 2 on each inner cap. Are you using the the outer caps that are clipped on to the distributor? Are you using the little 'O' rings which secure the inner caps to the outer caps? Could it be that when you assemble the inner caps to the outer caps the number 7 spark plug wire is pulling out of it's hole on the inner cap when you position the outer cap into its place on the inner cap?....
This message was edited by MG on 10-24-15 @ 6:52 PM
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