| Buckd44 | -- 10-18-2015 @ 5:29 PM |
|
I'm not getting spark on one cylinder. Attached is a picture of the lead ends of the wires. I'm new to this, not sure if it normal wear or what they should look like. Thanks Nate This message was edited by Buckd44 on 10-18-15 @ 5:53 PM
|
|
| 40cpe | -- 10-18-2015 @ 7:01 PM |
|
Pictures can be deceiving, but if that is oil on/around the upper left terminal it could be shorting out. I would wash thoroughly , dry, reinstall and see if it improves. I also see damaged insulation ring around the lower lower right terminal. If the dead plug is on the side fed by that cap it shows you are on the right track. Also ohm the plug wire and move a spark plug to the dead cylinder. You seem certain that there is no fire, but low/no compression will cause a miss. Good luck and let us know how you resolve the problem.
|
|
| drkbp | -- 10-18-2015 @ 8:14 PM |
|
Buck, 40cpe has probably nailed it from the way your inner cap looks. Oily. Is it cylinder number two (#6) on the driver's side that is acting up? The cylinders are numbered 1-4 on the right bank (passenger side) and 5-8 on the left bank (driver's side). That is the one that is dirty on the lower left of your cap picture if I have my head on right tonight. The lower two contacts are to the first and second cylinders on the driver's side, #5 and #6. That is the inner cap off a three screw biscuit coil '33-early '36 distributor, correct? The inner caps are numbered on the other side as to which cylinder wire goes on which contact. Whenever you get a couple of new ones, you should see the numbers on the wire side. I wouldn't take it apart until you get two new ones so you can put each wire right back in the correct spot on the inner cap. The late 1936 flat top coil distributor has the inner cap line up slot on the bottom of the driver's side of the distributor, on the top of the passenger side and uses a different inner cap. Please let us know what happens... Ken in Texas This message was edited by drkbp on 10-18-15 @ 8:54 PM
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 10-19-2015 @ 4:51 AM |
|
Argentina cap is old reproduction part of dubious quality. I would change it out for a new. drkbp is correct about there being two different distributors for 36 the early style uses the same inner cap as 33-35 and the later distributor with the flat top and held to the distributor with two screws uses the same cap as 37-41 sometimes you have to use some sandpaper on the cap to get it to fit properly (snug and all the way inserted) into the slot and recess of the distributor. Make sure the plug wire is plugged into the cap all the way and the wire has good continuity also check the plug gap 0.025 even swap the plug out for one that is firing correctly. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 10-19-15 @ 4:52 AM
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-19-2015 @ 12:49 PM |
|
Attached are more pictures. Can you determine what year cap I need by them. Also what brand of replacement is recommended. Nate
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 10-21-2015 @ 3:10 AM |
|
You have the earlier 36 style distributor the 33-36 caps are what you need.
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 10-21-2015 @ 7:06 AM |
|
I agree with 40 coupe. Argentine caps are definitely of questionable quality.
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-21-2015 @ 5:07 PM |
|
Thanks guys for the input. What I found is a get weak/intermediate spark at that cylinder. After the Rev of the engine, it doesn't spark at all. I thought about replacing everything. Distributor, rotor, coil and wires. Assuming the aforementioned poor quality parts. Thoughts? Or missing anything? Thanks a bunch, Nate
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 10-23-2015 @ 4:53 AM |
|
I suggest having the Ford coil rebuilt and the distributor reconditioned. Skip Haney can do both he is in Fla. see V8 Times ads. This way he can supply the inner distributor cap and check the ignition condenser, another somewhat problem area. He will also run the distributor on his machine and set the timing.
|
|
| TomO | -- 10-23-2015 @ 8:08 AM |
|
Nate, You have never answered the question about which cylinder does not have spark. The Argentine made inner caps were poor quality and could be the cause of your problem, but the wire to the failing cylinder could also be the problem. I doubt that the coil or condenser could cause a weak or no spark at one cylinder and replacing them or having your distributor timing set will solve the problem. The Argentine reproductions had a problem keeping the rotor to contact clearance within specifications. This led too broken rotors and caps that had grooves in the contacts. Both conditions could cause a miss. I would look for USA made inner contact plates. They have brass contacts. Bob Drake began reproducing the inner caps (P/N 18-12116) a few years ago. I have no experience with them, but you may want to order 2 to replace your Argentine reproductions, if you cannot find USA made old stock. I would also take a good look at the rotor. It may have been damaged by contact with the inner cap contacts. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 10-23-15 @ 8:11 AM
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-24-2015 @ 5:07 PM |
|
It's the #7 cylinder not firing. I replaced with new cap and wires. Still no spark. Everything else is getting spark. I have continuity from the cap point to the end of wire. I going to assume at this point it's the rotor? I took a pic of the rotor (not the best pic )
|
|
| MG | -- 10-24-2015 @ 6:33 PM |
|
I'm hard pressed to think it could be the rotor as each rotor contact is common to 4 inner cap contacts - 2 on each inner cap. Are you using the the outer caps that are clipped on to the distributor? Are you using the little 'O' rings which secure the inner caps to the outer caps? Could it be that when you assemble the inner caps to the outer caps the number 7 spark plug wire is pulling out of it's hole on the inner cap when you position the outer cap into its place on the inner cap?.... This message was edited by MG on 10-24-15 @ 6:52 PM
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-24-2015 @ 7:44 PM |
|
Yes, new oring, the old outer cap was broken and didn't have an o ring. Like I said I have continuity between the end cap and wire. Also new gasket between outer and inner cap. I'm confused as well. I'll tear it apart tomorrow and try the other cap I bought. Thanks Nate
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 10-25-2015 @ 4:56 AM |
|
How are you viewing the spark at the plugs? It could be possible you have a bad plug. Did you swap to another plug that sparks better? It could also be the gap between the rotor and the #7 inner cap terminal is too large.
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-25-2015 @ 5:52 AM |
|
I have a spark plug clip. Spark plugs are good, I've switched them around. Gap makes sense. I'll play with it today and update what I find.
|
|
| TomO | -- 10-25-2015 @ 9:23 AM |
|
Nate, your photo of the rotor did not show the contact for the cap contacts closest to the block. This is where n0 7 cylinder wire goes. Try holding the wire to no 7 plug near a head nut to check the spark. If it is still weak, check to see that the spark is not leaking to the conduit. Run the wire outside of the conduit. The wires for the plugs should snap in the cap. It is possible to have a continuity checker show continuity but the wire will still be loose and give a weak spark. Tom
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-27-2015 @ 10:07 AM |
|
Update, I installed new inner and out caps, new o-ring and gaskets, and new wires. Ran everything outside of the conduit. I still have no spark on #7 and now #4. I have continuity from inside cap to spark plug ends. I took the new caps off, I noticed there isnt a mark or residue on the inner cap prongs. I assume my next step is to install a new rotor?? Thanks, Nate
|
|
| MG | -- 10-27-2015 @ 11:06 AM |
|
If you've never torn into a distributor before, I recommend you send it off to either Skip Haney or Bubbas Ignition for repair and setup... This link for Skip > http://www.fordcollector.com/coils.htm This link for Bubbas > www.bubbashotrodshop.com
|
|
| ken ct. | -- 10-27-2015 @ 1:30 PM |
|
That rotor doesn't look too good. I would also get rid of that too thick cork gasket between the coil and dist body. I have thinner rubber ones work better and also have good nos rotors . Atip from a rebuilder get a pc. of shrink tubing and shrink it over the center section of the shaft under the rotor. Have those also cut to correct length and diam for installation. Always set point gap with coil scr*w*d down in place. ken ct .Also axiel play in shaft must be kept to a minimum with shim washers between the rotor end and the bushing with the flange on it. ken ct.
|
|
| TomO | -- 10-28-2015 @ 7:12 AM |
|
Are you sure that the caps are fully seated into the distributor body? If they are, I suggest that you have the distributor serviced. You may have wear in the bushings or the shaft. Tom
|
|
| Buckd44 | -- 10-28-2015 @ 7:48 AM |
|
Yes, they are tightly secured. I belive the consensus is, it needs to be sent off to be rebuilt.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=9089 |