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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Flathead will not start

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Discussion Topic: Flathead will not start -- page: 1 2 3 4

TomO

01-20-2016 @ 8:09 AM

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My suggestions for doing a compression check and isolating the noise were just to save you some money and frustration. So many times complete rebuilds are done when they are not needed and the problems are still there. Other times a rebuild is needed and people keep driving the car and destroying the motor.

I like to know the cause of the problem before I start replacing parts and paying for services that I might not need. As a novice to the Early Ford V-8 world, you have done a good job of getting your car running, but it needs the help of an experienced Ford V-8 restorer to isolate and direct the repairs. It is at a point where online help is not good enough.

Tom

40headaches

01-19-2016 @ 8:33 AM

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Already had a letter sent out to my NCRG group and have been getting rebuild shop referrals. The motor is inoperable right now. I do not feel good starting it for 5 seconds let alone running wide open for a compression check. Nothing shot out from the motor yet and I wish to keep it that way. My mind is made up. Total engine and trans. rebuild is needed to make me feel good. My wife enjoys the car and I wish to take those 500 mile tours some day w/ no fear.

My post name was created when I joined because my Dads car he gave me is here to do a complete restore job. Not knowing much to make me feel good to start I found the same model year in a fordor after I joined which is what we've been talking about to use as a set of instructions. And to enjoy and get my motivation up to pare. Unfortunately spending money on this one delays the second. So 40headaches is more about the pile of parts and figuring out what went where and how more than frustration and aggravation. Heck I was proud to get the starting issue resolved.

This message was edited by 40headaches on 1-19-16 @ 8:34 AM

TomO

01-19-2016 @ 7:52 AM

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40headahces,

As TRJFord8, said, contact Cecil Polan for help on getting your Ford running. He should be able to put you in contact with someone close to your home to help you resolve your problems.

You will probably have to do:

a compression check, with all plugs removed and the throttle wide open.

Isolate the source of the noise before doing any disassembly. Do not disassemble the motor until you are sure that the problem is in the motor.

I would like to see you be able to change your sign on to"happy40owner"

Tom

40headaches

01-19-2016 @ 5:33 AM

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No water in gas. Dropped tank, cleaned and blew out lines. So! New plugs, condenser, using an original resister block, checked coil brush was good to go. BUT! I did remove all grounding cables and sand away all paint, and super cleaned cable ends. So since the last time it was cranked over ( 3 weeks+) Choke in 100% no gas pedal pumps and it Started right up. Had 3.7 V. @ coil. Now I also adjusted the clutch pedal to have the 1" of play. Fellow club member suggested the rumble /roaring vibration noise while crossing the 30-40mph speed was due to lack of free play. They thought it was from the pressure plate area. Again I saw that this has been played w/ before. But now I had that rumble... starting at 25mph after my tweak. But always once at 50 it sounded very happy. Took family out after trial run was successful. 2 miles from home something sounded and felt like it just blew out the bottom of the car at a hill climb at 25mph. Horrible shaking. Nothing dripping or hanging below. Got it home via a tow up on stands, hard to start but when it did would not idle worth a darn. Shaking before I could even try 1st gear.Common sense tells me not the trans, but inside the motor. There was a tapping noise prior to the 30min. trip that usually went away w/ a hot motor.
Ordered the Ford flathead v8 builders handbook. Will review before I remove one bolt. Now I understand buying w/ no clear history will be a huge gamble. I'm not distressed, just anxious to really enjoying the car on the road and not on jack stands.

This message was edited by 40headaches on 1-19-16 @ 5:54 AM

shogun1940

01-16-2016 @ 6:31 PM

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When you picked up the car,on the way home did you fill it up with gas,,could it have water in it? Will it start on ether ?

brooks

01-09-2016 @ 2:28 PM

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Try bypassing the resister and see if it will crank with 6 volts to the coil.
I see where you al ready had 6 volts to the coil I would say your coil is damage.
Kindest Regards, Brooks

This message was edited by brooks on 1-9-16 @ 2:39 PM

TomO

01-07-2016 @ 7:02 AM

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Your distributor is probably in time then. The only reason that it would be out of time is if someone tried to adjust the points after Cliff set them.

Even a Skip Haney rebuilt coil can be damaged by the incorrect voltage.

Good Luck

Tom

40headaches

01-06-2016 @ 2:53 PM

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Thanks Ken and Tom. I should be able to get to the car this weekend. Coil was rebuilt by Haney, distributor by Cliff Green.

TomO

01-06-2016 @ 8:06 AM

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After you replace the condenser, check your spark again. The full 6 volts to the coil may have damaged it.

In order to start and run an engine need fuel in the right mixture, compression and a spark at the correct time.

Your distributor should be in time, if the re-builder was Skip Haney.

When it will not start, check the spark for a nice strong spark. If you have good spark, remove a spark plug from the second cylinder on the right bank and check for a wet condition. If the plug is wet from gas, your engine is flooded.

To start a flooded engine, push the choke so it is open and floor the gas pedal.

Tom

ken ct.

01-05-2016 @ 4:06 PM

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You say you replaced the coil brush an spring.Did you reinstall the coil properly that is coil replaced straight down very slightly with the top of coil slightly to the rear. Your coil spring could have missed the cup and is lodged behind the cup and would create a massive ground and will never start. You must be very careful when replacing a coil on the car. ken ct.

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