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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Clutch Chatter

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Clutch Chatter -- page: 1 2     LarryK 09-04-2015 @ 10:47 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 105 Joined: Aug 2012 Well, there has been a lot of chatter (sorry) on this topic. I have been practicing Tom O's technique and it works well when I execute it properly. I am going to re-check the engine and transmission mounts this winter. After installing new mounts front and rear last year and driving the car a few hundred miles, I found the lower rubber cushions on the fronts to be loose, similar to the problem fordv8j describes. I don't think there should be metal to metal contact between the large flat washer that sits on the top cushion and the shoulder of the bolt, so I installed a flat washer under the hex head of the bolt where it goes up through the cross member. Now the top and bottom rubber cushions are under compression. That didn't help the chatter problem, however. Larry carcrazy 09-02-2015 @ 10:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1680 Joined: Oct 2009 Another item to check that can contribute to "clutch chatter" with cars that have a torque tube driveline is loose rear shock mounts. fordv8j 09-02-2015 @ 6:39 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 176 Joined: Jan 2015 Our 38 coupe had clutch chatter,checked transmission and engine mounts the bolts were all tight..these are shoulder bolts and tighten against the mounts,so you shouldn't be able to over tighten them...the lower bushings were loose..I took the metal washer off the bushing..installed a hard rubber washer about 3/16'' thick between the bushing and the washer..did this on tfour mounts,tightened all against the shoulder...this eliminated 90% of my chatter..new lower bushings would probably do it..MACS has them fordv8j 09-01-2015 @ 5:32 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 176 Joined: Jan 2015 My 38 coupe had a bad clutch chatter..I checked it today,the bolts are shoulder bolts..thus they tighten up against the mounts,all transmission and engine mount bolts were tight..but the lower rubbers were loose (wear and fatigue),took the metal washer off the rubber bushing,placed a 3/16 thick hard rubber washer between the bushing and the washer..this is on the lower end of the mount bolt..tightened all 4 bolts..this eliminated 90% of my chatter supereal 08-31-2015 @ 5:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Before you adjust your clutch, be sure that the clutch return spring is intact and pulling the clutch pedal all the way back to the floorboard when released. Otherwise, the free play setting will be incorrect. If you are having trouble getting smooth shifts, or the gears grind when you place the shift into first gear when stopped, it is likely your idle speed is too high. Using 140 weight in the transmission will also help, as the higher viscosity slows the cluster gear enough to allow the synchronizers to work. Some chatter is normal, but properly adjusting the clutch will keep it tolerable. TNation 08-31-2015 @ 4:51 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 22 Joined: Dec 2010 I too have had to deal with clutch chatter. I had the engine in my '36 tudor rebuilt. The rebuilder re-surfaced the flywheel for me and I installed a new clutch. Much to my disappointment I had terrible clutch chatter. It shook the whole car. I pulled the transmission and intalled another new clutch and pressure plate. Same clutch chatter. I don't remember who, but someone put me in touch with David Egelston, Ph (816) 842-7398. He provided me with a clutch and pressure plate - absolutely no chatter. RAK402 07-12-2015 @ 9:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 441 Joined: Jul 2015 I have had my 1940 Sedan for about 40 years now. When I got it, the clutch was extremely rough (it became rougher still after I learned to drive stick shift with it). It has had several clutches in the intervening decades. On those occasions when I experienced clutch chatter, it was always that oil had contaminated the disc. Replacing the disc eliminated the issue. 51f1 07-08-2015 @ 2:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 This brings a story to mind that a college professor related to me many years ago: There was this mountain family that had fallen on hard times. They were starving to death. So Pa decided to visit some of their neighbors to see if they could give them some food. As he went down the mountain, he stopped at each house. He got the same answer everywhere he went. No one had any food. They were all starving to death. When he got back home he called his family together and told them that he hadn't been able to get any food from their neighbors. "But we aren't so bad off. Everyone else is starving to death too." I guess that, since most everyone has this clutch chatter problem, it's ok? Richard TomO 07-05-2015 @ 9:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7263 Joined: Oct 2009 Larry, The technique that I have found to reduce clutch chatter is when starting out in first, start to engage the clutch while the engine is idling, as soon as you feel it start to engage, press on the gas pedal and release the clutch pedal. It helps to have the idle set between 450-550 rpms. anything faster than that will aggravate the chatter. To set the idle, drive the car until the engine is at operating temperatures. Then adjust the idle as slow as you can keep it running. Turn in both idle mixture screws 1/8 of a turn at a time. If the engine slows down, turn them out 1/8 of a turn at a time, until the engine is idling at its best. Tom ford38v8 07-05-2015 @ 8:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2774 Joined: Oct 2009 Larry, The mounts should be tightened until the rubber just begins to deform. Tighter than that will cause early failure. Alan

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