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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Oil brand & type, '36

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Oil brand & type, '36 -- page: 1 2     1934 Ford 02-28-2010 @ 3:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 While not scientific, my reason for using 20W50 is climate. We live in Florida where oil seeems to get hotter than elsewhere. I my good engines I use the 20W50 because I think it stays a little heavier in the Florida heat. It never gets really cold here, so starting on a cold day is NOT a consideration. In my worn out 35 Pickup I use 50 Racing oil because it drips less! I've always heard that these old flatheads were very loose on clearances when new,(compared to todays engines so a worn out one should be real sloppy. Any oil will work fine, but changing it often keeps everyting clean and lubricated. Main advantage is thicker drips less. JebNY 02-27-2010 @ 7:00 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 44 Joined: Nov 2009 If you want hours of reading on oil and additives check out Bob the Oil Guys Forum. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php Jim... 1950 F1 Stake supereal 02-27-2010 @ 12:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Yeah, Bill, we are usually on the same page. I think much of the opposition to "detergent" oil, if there is any left. comes from the use of the term. It kind of sounds like you are pouring Tide into your crankcase. I think "dispersant" would be a better term. The additive "package" used in today's motor oils is a complex mix of ingredients never dreamed of back in the days when oil came in glass bottles with long snouts at the corner "filling" station after we cranked them full in the back room. wmsteed 02-27-2010 @ 9:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 613 Joined: Oct 2009 Well now Super, you must be reading my mind. About an hour ago I made a posting to the POC Forum about the sludge and acid that use to be very common in engines during the years prior to the invention and use of detergent engine lubricants. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe wmsteed 02-27-2010 @ 8:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 613 Joined: Oct 2009 If my memory is correct, the "W" on oil grades does not stand for weight, it stands for "winter". I think it was sometime during the mid '30's that the oil company's reformulated engine lubricates utilizing the terms "20 W, 30 W. etc., to signify the temp range they were intended for. Over time the "W" has been construed to mean weight, in lieu of winter. When a manufacture recommended 40w, that meant the oil was intended for use above 40 degrees. The same scale applies to the other oil grades. Foot note.... The same oil debate in currently going on at the Plymouth Owners Club Forum.... Bill 36 5 win delx cpe supereal 02-27-2010 @ 8:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The largest drawback to using non-detergent oil is the rapid formation of sludge. Most of us old timers recall scooping handfuls of "black jello" out of valve chambers and oil pans. Most of the babbit bearings I've seen are very porous, and exhibit lodging of debris, in any case, particularly those that were hand scr*ped to adjust clearance. Many engines, including those in Ford tractors, have large, removable panels in the oil pan so sludge could be removed without pulling the engine. As the Ford tractor engines form half of the frame, that was a good idea. SteveC 02-27-2010 @ 7:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 28 Joined: Nov 2009 I love people that immediately dismiss non-detergent oil. I have used it in Model A's and Henderson in line four cylinder motorcycle engines for forty years without any failure. If you have a babbit bearing engine that you have not opened and cleaned, it is very possible that by using detergent oil without an oil filter, the oil will pick up dirt and fine metal particles, hold them in suspension and run the junk right back through the bearings. I agree that after a clean rebuild, any good quality modern oil of proper viscosity may be used with good results. The key is frequent oil changes in unfiltered systems. I generally change the non-detergent oil at 500-700 mile intervals. I smile at oil the modern oil discussions. Its like arguing over attractive blondes, brunettes and redheads (it's a matter of personal preference). Additionally, if you have a stock engine and don't run it over its original design limits, I don't think all these modern additives make one bit of difference plus or minus. I once had a guy argue about the merits of synthetic oil and then tell me he changed his oil at 750 mile increments anyway (a big waste of money in mho). I just bought an original '34 with the unknown engine. I'm sure its never been rebuilt so I will use a 40wt non-detergent in it per the owner's manual. Non-detergent is still readily available from many suppliers like Amalie, Drydene, Sunoco etc. NAPA and local parts suppliers will generally have it or can get it. Not to be found in Walmarts or Autozones, etc. Please note I am not advocating this for modified or high performance engines. MTLott 02-27-2010 @ 3:39 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 38 Joined: Oct 2009 Oil discussions are usually very popular on message boards. There is a lot of information available and a ton of opinions. Most times the original questioner gets an overload and remains uncertain. ZDDP is always at the center of any discussion. Rarely mentioned is what happens if you use too much of it ... some guys really over-dose. Supposedly, too much ZDDP starts attacking the "grain boundaries" in iron causing camshaft spalling. Well. One more thing to worry about. (Thank you, Supereal, for suggesting Bob Masters. I just thought someone might have some spare Sun machine parts ... as I do but no transformer ... and would like to sell or swap.) Stroker 02-26-2010 @ 3:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Just to keep things in perspective, I have 15 gallons of Veedol 30 wt. from the late 30's when my grandfather was self-servicing his 37 Zephyr. I also have a half case of Veedol 10 wt. that he used in the winter for the same car. I consider that I have a 10 lifetimes supply of oil for my furnace fan bearings, and enough original cans of 10-wt Veedol to ebay to can collectors to help finance my parts needs on my beloved 38 woodie. Would I ever pour Veedol in my car? I think you all know the answer to that. If anyone out there wants "vintage 30 wt. (before detergent was invented) oil, I've got it. I wouldn't insult my knowledgeable V8'ers by posting this trove in the classified, as you guys are a lot smarter than that. 51f1 02-26-2010 @ 3:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 The oil available when your car/truck was built is about as good as today's 3-In-One oil. (O.K. Maybe that's an exaggeration.) But any oil available today is better than any oil available when your car was built. Just pick one. Where do you buy non-detergent oil? Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 2-26-10 @ 3:27 PM

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