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Discussion Topic:
36 engine, early or late model?
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drkbp |
05-22-2015 @ 5:47 AM
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New Member
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Maybe someone can tell me how to change a photo. Let me see if this works. Block-off Plates.
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drkbp |
05-22-2015 @ 5:38 AM
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MichV8, I forgot to add that the '37 replacement block occasionally shows up NOS even in the last 15 years. Ford made a bunch of them and it is the next best block to a 1936 LB, or an original block, as far as looking correct in the early cars. Full inserted mains. I know of more of them in cars than original blocks by at least 3 to 1. The only thing better about a real LB is it passes the "raised hood look" for correct. The early 21 stud block didn't cool itself as good as the later blocks. The water pumps pump "into the block" and "out of the head center" of the 1937 later blocks rather than "out of" the front of the early 21-stud heads. The 21-stud supposed "cooling problem" has absolutely nothing to do with how fast the water is pumped. Great engine when installed with the '37 head. That 1937 21-stud head is not an easy one to find either. Here is a better picture of the block off plates. They show up at swap meets often. Ken in Texas
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drkbp |
05-22-2015 @ 4:36 AM
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MichV8, The 1937 block was the replacement block from Ford for the older style '32 to '36 21-stud cars and trucks that had V8's after its introduction in late 1936. It allowed you to use your heads, radiator etc. and only change the short block. The ongoing discussion about plug size in a '36 head shows one. Here is a better picture from the front showing the block off plates. Ken in Texas
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MICHV8 |
05-22-2015 @ 3:51 AM
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I remember a reply that said a 37 engine will also work in a 32?
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80artk |
05-21-2015 @ 9:17 PM
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Don, thanks for the information about that difference in bolt/stud spacing. Checking those dimensions will eliminate the guess work. It is good to know a sure-fire way to tell for sure.
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Don Rogers |
05-20-2015 @ 6:15 PM
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If you can lower the oil pan and take a peak at the main bearings you can tell for sure whether you have an LB block or not. Babbited blocks measure 3" between main bearing studs and LB blocks measure 3.25" See attached image.
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trjford8 |
05-20-2015 @ 5:42 PM
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Fixing the tank sending unit may be as simple as replacing the cork float.
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80artk |
05-20-2015 @ 2:20 PM
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Charlie, thanks for the informative response. I want to determine which type bearings the engine has. Because the insert type bearing engines are more $ desirable. I believe the engine is the original engine with less than 46,000 miles on the odometer. The car was in at least two collections for many years and still looks good and is solid survivor car, original and a museum piece. I can't verify the mileage at this point. It still has mechanical brakes and a 6 volt electrical system. Oil pressure is 20 psi at idle after warming up. 30 psi before warm up. Also, all gauges work except the fuel gage and I believe it would work if the in-tank sending unit was good.
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drkbp |
05-20-2015 @ 11:31 AM
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80artk, A lot of 1936 and earlier Fords have replacement engines in them. I drove my '35 Cabriolet to the office today and had to look at it while making a post above. It has the original engine and transmission complete and that seems to be a bit unusual. Really, the first question to answer is: Is your engine a 1936? The answer may very well be yes but we can't tell from this thread. A picture can show early V8 21-stud. The rest is pretty much take apart time. I do have an LB as a spare out of a late 1936 4-door. The 1937 21-stud engine is the favorite replacement engine for '33 to '36 Ford V8's. It is an inserted main bearing like the LB's of late 1936. It also allows you to put the early heads on the engine to "look" correct, hoses and all. They are a lot easier to find than a good early block. The 1938 to 1948's will work too but the hoses have to run from the center of the head. Ken in Texas
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trjford8 |
05-19-2015 @ 7:47 AM
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To add a little more confusion, even though your frame and transmission number match it does not mean you have an LB engine. At some point over time the motor may have been changed/replaced and it may have been with a non-insert motor. The only real way to tell is to pull the pan and look.
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