| 80artk | -- 05-17-2015 @ 3:36 PM |
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I would like to know if the engine in my 36 is the early model or the late model. The car's VIN No. is 3246728 if that will help. All info appreciated.
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| TonyM | -- 05-17-2015 @ 4:09 PM |
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According to the Early Ford V-8 Club of America 1935-1936 Ford Book, at the time of manufacture your car was fitted with the engine / transmission unit that was produced in August of 1936. When this engine/trans combo was produced, the number 3246728 was stamped on the transmission housing. When this engine/trans combo was installed into a 1936 Ford frame/chassis, that number was stamped onto the frame in three places. The August 1936 production run of V-8 engine/transmission combinations are 3209944 thru 3281836. . . . 78-730B
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| 80artk | -- 05-17-2015 @ 6:45 PM |
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Thanks for that information! That is good to know. However, because I do not know when (month) they began installing the later engines, I still do not know which engine my car has.
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| TonyM | -- 05-17-2015 @ 9:37 PM |
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According to the Early Ford V-8 Club of America's 1935-1936 Ford Book production of engines for the 1936 model year ended in September of 1936. . . . 78-730B
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| TomO | -- 05-18-2015 @ 6:06 AM |
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Here is a link to flathead engine block identification photos. http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25301&highlight=flathead+block+differences&showall=1 The Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum also sells a book on the evolution of the flathead V-8. http://www.fordv8foundation.org/store.html Tom
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| nelsb01 | -- 05-18-2015 @ 6:41 AM |
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You could also look on the top of the block (driver's side front) for the stamping of LB. If that is visible, it will be considered near the end of the 1936 engine build, due to the fact that it has insert bearings.
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| CharlieStephens | -- 05-18-2015 @ 11:26 AM |
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First let me establish my (lack of) credentials. I have never owned a 1936 Ford, although I have had several ‘32’s and a ’37. I read a lot. Now you know what weight to put on my comments (do I hear trash can?). What is the difference between an early and a late 1936 engine? I am sure there were a lot of changes to the small bolt on stuff based on my experience with restoration in the 1932 year. Are you are trying to establish that you have insert bearings? The inserted bearing engine came out in September 1935 (ref page 23 of “The Early Ford V8 As Henry built It) and was produced in parallel with the babbit engines. If there is another difference between early and late please ignore me and forgive my ignorance. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 5-18-15 @ 10:46 PM
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| ford38v8 | -- 05-18-2015 @ 12:58 PM |
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I hope Charlie Stephens doesn't get ignored! He is correct, I believe, although I wasn't there either! Logic tells us that the babbitt blocks were phased out at some point, but without my 35-36 book handy, I don't know if the last serial number is recorded anywhere. With regard to Bruce's mention of the LB stamp on the block, I and many others have a set of stamps that could be used to fake such a marking. Just sayin'... Alan
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| trjford8 | -- 05-19-2015 @ 7:47 AM |
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To add a little more confusion, even though your frame and transmission number match it does not mean you have an LB engine. At some point over time the motor may have been changed/replaced and it may have been with a non-insert motor. The only real way to tell is to pull the pan and look.
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| drkbp | -- 05-20-2015 @ 11:31 AM |
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80artk, A lot of 1936 and earlier Fords have replacement engines in them. I drove my '35 Cabriolet to the office today and had to look at it while making a post above. It has the original engine and transmission complete and that seems to be a bit unusual. Really, the first question to answer is: Is your engine a 1936? The answer may very well be yes but we can't tell from this thread. A picture can show early V8 21-stud. The rest is pretty much take apart time. I do have an LB as a spare out of a late 1936 4-door. The 1937 21-stud engine is the favorite replacement engine for '33 to '36 Ford V8's. It is an inserted main bearing like the LB's of late 1936. It also allows you to put the early heads on the engine to "look" correct, hoses and all. They are a lot easier to find than a good early block. The 1938 to 1948's will work too but the hoses have to run from the center of the head. Ken in Texas
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| 80artk | -- 05-20-2015 @ 2:20 PM |
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Charlie, thanks for the informative response. I want to determine which type bearings the engine has. Because the insert type bearing engines are more $ desirable. I believe the engine is the original engine with less than 46,000 miles on the odometer. The car was in at least two collections for many years and still looks good and is solid survivor car, original and a museum piece. I can't verify the mileage at this point. It still has mechanical brakes and a 6 volt electrical system. Oil pressure is 20 psi at idle after warming up. 30 psi before warm up. Also, all gauges work except the fuel gage and I believe it would work if the in-tank sending unit was good.
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| trjford8 | -- 05-20-2015 @ 5:42 PM |
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Fixing the tank sending unit may be as simple as replacing the cork float.
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| Don Rogers | -- 05-20-2015 @ 6:15 PM |
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If you can lower the oil pan and take a peak at the main bearings you can tell for sure whether you have an LB block or not. Babbited blocks measure 3" between main bearing studs and LB blocks measure 3.25" See attached image.
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| 80artk | -- 05-21-2015 @ 9:17 PM |
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Don, thanks for the information about that difference in bolt/stud spacing. Checking those dimensions will eliminate the guess work. It is good to know a sure-fire way to tell for sure.
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| MICHV8 | -- 05-22-2015 @ 3:51 AM |
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I remember a reply that said a 37 engine will also work in a 32?
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| drkbp | -- 05-22-2015 @ 4:36 AM |
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MichV8, The 1937 block was the replacement block from Ford for the older style '32 to '36 21-stud cars and trucks that had V8's after its introduction in late 1936. It allowed you to use your heads, radiator etc. and only change the short block. The ongoing discussion about plug size in a '36 head shows one. Here is a better picture from the front showing the block off plates. Ken in Texas
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| drkbp | -- 05-22-2015 @ 5:38 AM |
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MichV8, I forgot to add that the '37 replacement block occasionally shows up NOS even in the last 15 years. Ford made a bunch of them and it is the next best block to a 1936 LB, or an original block, as far as looking correct in the early cars. Full inserted mains. I know of more of them in cars than original blocks by at least 3 to 1. The only thing better about a real LB is it passes the "raised hood look" for correct. The early 21 stud block didn't cool itself as good as the later blocks. The water pumps pump "into the block" and "out of the head center" of the 1937 later blocks rather than "out of" the front of the early 21-stud heads. The 21-stud supposed "cooling problem" has absolutely nothing to do with how fast the water is pumped. Great engine when installed with the '37 head. That 1937 21-stud head is not an easy one to find either. Here is a better picture of the block off plates. They show up at swap meets often. Ken in Texas
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| drkbp | -- 05-22-2015 @ 5:47 AM |
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Maybe someone can tell me how to change a photo. Let me see if this works. Block-off Plates.
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