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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Pulled Head and this is what I found

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TomO
09-11-2014 @ 7:27 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
It sounds like you may have a crack going to an exhaust port. Borrow or rent a cylinder leak-down tester to determine which cylinder is at fault before pulling the heads again.

I prefer the composition head gaskets for good sealing.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 9-11-14 @ 7:32 AM

CraigTerry
09-10-2014 @ 2:25 PM
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
          
One more thing - i used copper gaskets and did not use any additional sealer on the gasket. Should I have?

CraigTerry
09-10-2014 @ 2:02 PM
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
          
I let the engine run for quite a while. It's not condensation it's the 50/50 mix from the cooling system. As for the weeping stud I coated the end of it with liquid Teflon - hoping that would stop it, all it did was slow it down.

I'm thinking I'm going to pull the head, pull all studs, seal the bottoms of all of them with a thread sealer and lightly groove out the crack and put some JB Weld in it.

Again open to experienced advice.

carcrazy
09-10-2014 @ 1:39 PM
Senior
Posts: 1653
Joined: Oct 2009
          
How long have you let the engine run? The fluid coming out of the exhaust may just be condensation which will stop being produced once the engine has reached operating temperature. For the stud which has a coolant leak, I would remove that stud and coat the bottom threads (which screw into the block) with Permatex #2 and reinstall the stud into the block. Drain the coolant from the engine before doing the stud removal. Please let us know if this solves your concerns.

CraigTerry
09-10-2014 @ 1:06 PM
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
          
Ok , I had the heads checked and machined flat. Replaced the head gasket with copper gaskets. Cleaned cooling system with evaporust and the flushed. Replaced head studs using stainless allthread rod cut to length. Torgued all head bolts to 55lbs. I still have fluid coming out of exhaust. I have excellent vacuum, engine runs fine, no miss, low compression in one of the cylinders. No water in oil.

Block has surface crack between large coolant ports and fine crack to cylinder but doesn't penetrate cylinder jacket. Also this is not the cylinder with low compression.

I have water weeping from one of the head studs.

Any experts out there that can give me advice?



len47merc
08-24-2014 @ 2:41 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
To TomO's point, keep your Shop Vac on and the crevasse nozzle directly beside your scr*ping tool and vacuum debris up before it hits the cylinders that have been rotated to close the valves.

Steve

TomO
08-24-2014 @ 10:07 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Keep a vacuum cleaner handy and vacuum the debris before you rotate the engine.

Tom

39topless
08-20-2014 @ 12:12 PM
Member
Posts: 77
Joined: Feb 2013
          
Debris shouldn't get any farther down the piston cylinder than the top of the piston but it will go down into the valve holes. How about working on one cylinder at a time and rotate the crank until the valves are closed? Just a thought.

CraigTerry
08-15-2014 @ 1:21 PM
Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
          
Question what do you guys use to remove the old gasket material from the block. How do you prevent debris from getting into the open valves and piston shafts.


TomO
08-13-2014 @ 7:01 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
My caution about using any chemical in the radiator, is that some of the debris could plug the radiator, or open up a leak that has been sealed with a sealer. I prefer to have a good radiator shop clean my radiator. Re-cores with the louver fins are too expensive to take chances on.

Tom

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