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Discussion Topic:
Pulled Head and this is what I found
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TomO |
09-11-2014 @ 7:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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It sounds like you may have a crack going to an exhaust port. Borrow or rent a cylinder leak-down tester to determine which cylinder is at fault before pulling the heads again. I prefer the composition head gaskets for good sealing. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 9-11-14 @ 7:32 AM
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CraigTerry |
09-10-2014 @ 2:25 PM
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Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
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One more thing - i used copper gaskets and did not use any additional sealer on the gasket. Should I have?
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CraigTerry |
09-10-2014 @ 2:02 PM
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Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
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I let the engine run for quite a while. It's not condensation it's the 50/50 mix from the cooling system. As for the weeping stud I coated the end of it with liquid Teflon - hoping that would stop it, all it did was slow it down. I'm thinking I'm going to pull the head, pull all studs, seal the bottoms of all of them with a thread sealer and lightly groove out the crack and put some JB Weld in it. Again open to experienced advice.
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carcrazy |
09-10-2014 @ 1:39 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1653
Joined: Oct 2009
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How long have you let the engine run? The fluid coming out of the exhaust may just be condensation which will stop being produced once the engine has reached operating temperature. For the stud which has a coolant leak, I would remove that stud and coat the bottom threads (which screw into the block) with Permatex #2 and reinstall the stud into the block. Drain the coolant from the engine before doing the stud removal. Please let us know if this solves your concerns.
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CraigTerry |
09-10-2014 @ 1:06 PM
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Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
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Ok , I had the heads checked and machined flat. Replaced the head gasket with copper gaskets. Cleaned cooling system with evaporust and the flushed. Replaced head studs using stainless allthread rod cut to length. Torgued all head bolts to 55lbs. I still have fluid coming out of exhaust. I have excellent vacuum, engine runs fine, no miss, low compression in one of the cylinders. No water in oil. Block has surface crack between large coolant ports and fine crack to cylinder but doesn't penetrate cylinder jacket. Also this is not the cylinder with low compression. I have water weeping from one of the head studs. Any experts out there that can give me advice?
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len47merc |
08-24-2014 @ 2:41 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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To TomO's point, keep your Shop Vac on and the crevasse nozzle directly beside your scr*ping tool and vacuum debris up before it hits the cylinders that have been rotated to close the valves.
Steve
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TomO |
08-24-2014 @ 10:07 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Keep a vacuum cleaner handy and vacuum the debris before you rotate the engine.
Tom
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39topless |
08-20-2014 @ 12:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 77
Joined: Feb 2013
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Debris shouldn't get any farther down the piston cylinder than the top of the piston but it will go down into the valve holes. How about working on one cylinder at a time and rotate the crank until the valves are closed? Just a thought.
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CraigTerry |
08-15-2014 @ 1:21 PM
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Member
Posts: 22
Joined: Jun 2014
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Question what do you guys use to remove the old gasket material from the block. How do you prevent debris from getting into the open valves and piston shafts.
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TomO |
08-13-2014 @ 7:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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My caution about using any chemical in the radiator, is that some of the debris could plug the radiator, or open up a leak that has been sealed with a sealer. I prefer to have a good radiator shop clean my radiator. Re-cores with the louver fins are too expensive to take chances on.
Tom
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