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Discussion Topic:
1934 Fordor Roof details
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AP |
10-08-2020 @ 8:37 AM
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Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Feb 2019
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Can you kindly provide Mark Mitch CA contact
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supereal |
06-04-2019 @ 11:03 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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When I did my first top replacement, on a Model A, a pro gave me a valuable tip. If you are using original (old) wooden parts of the top, apply a filler, such as Bondo, over the existing nail holes. This is a trick well known to upholsterers of antique furniture. It is essential that all tacks holding the top material be secure to prevent loosening which will show as creases in the final job.
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AP |
05-26-2019 @ 3:37 PM
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Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Feb 2019
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I am also looking for the soft roof information as I am restoring a flood damaged 1934 Ford Fordor deluxe sedan located in India. Appreciate if anyone can guide me where I can get details of the roof restoration guide. I am specially looking for the curvature of the roof which I believe the original roof design must have had to drain rain water (no puddling). I was told Rattan (Cane) inserts in metallic guides in place of the paper material is a good alternative. Thanks
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1934 Ford |
06-29-2014 @ 10:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 578
Joined: Oct 2009
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I agree, good instructions. I'll add a few tips for the do it yourselfers (Without a lift), like me. To do it in you home garage, face the car in to leave space behind the car to get your floor jack under the banjo when it's time to lower the rearend. Also remove the rear wheels. This does two things, 1. It keeps the car low enough to get in an out to extract the transmission. 2. Allows the rearend to move back farther and roll out from under the fenders on the drums. It can be a one guy job, but a helper makes it faster and more fun. I like the battery strap tip too!
1934 Ford's since 1972
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40 Coupe |
06-26-2014 @ 3:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1688
Joined: Oct 2009
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The final metal trim in my photo is a replacement aluminum sold by all of the trim suppliers. The thing about the final trim is it has to be bent, if you try to bend it without the proper tools the center channel can collapse. Mark Mitch*ll in CA has the tools for bending the trim but the process is $$$. I am sure the $ pays for the tooling as well as redoing any pieces that are not close to fitting. By this time he probably has the dimensions for all of the soft tops and doesn't have to re-do much. The metal and tack strip inside of it, are riveted to the top, if your tack strip is not in good condition you may consider filling voids with RTV and using #2 stainless screws to attach the final trim, or just replacing sections of the tack strip that are missing.
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David J |
06-25-2014 @ 6:58 PM
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New Member
Posts: 136
Joined: Jan 2014
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Anna nudder
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David J |
06-25-2014 @ 6:58 PM
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New Member
Posts: 136
Joined: Jan 2014
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Pic is a mid 33 std 4D and is the same as 34 . The top strip is nailed and also bolted double in all 4 corners . These bolts are small and you will see the two holes in each corner if unmolested and like a US car . The strip it nails into is really hard paper crimped into a metal channel . This is caulked and riveted into the channel formed into the actual roof panel . Only one pic per so I will post two ,
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1934 Ford |
06-25-2014 @ 6:30 PM
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Senior
Posts: 578
Joined: Oct 2009
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40 Coupe, Is that 3 piece metal rail/tack strip available anywhere? Thanks for such a good reply with photo's, even good photo's. Very nice.
1934 Ford's since 1972
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Keith |
06-25-2014 @ 3:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Oct 2010
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Thank you very much for the information and photos, it is very helpful. Just one question do you any photos or more detail about the metal channel and tack strip ? Regards Keith
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40 Coupe |
06-25-2014 @ 4:05 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1688
Joined: Oct 2009
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One more photo
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