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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Tranmission Removal 39 Deluxe Tudor

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Tranmission Removal 39 Deluxe Tudor -- page: 1 2     TomO 06-26-2014 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Larry, Here is a link to the membership information. http://clubs.hemmings.com/nationalcapitalregion//html/membership_info.html I am sure that you will enjoy touring and discussing the cars with other members of the National Capital Regional Group. They are a great bunch of people. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-26-14 @ 7:24 AM LarryK 06-25-2014 @ 5:36 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 105 Joined: Aug 2012 John, I live in Gaithersburg, Maryland. I have been to a few meetings of the local regional group. Do not know what the procedure is for joining. Larry VT/JeffH 06-20-2014 @ 7:27 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 153 Joined: May 2010 Hi Larry! Here are a couple of thoughts from an old post somewhere: There are at least two tips I could pass along though. 1) Get two 6-8 inch long bolts that fit the bell housing to transmission mounting holes, remove the bolt heads and now you have a rod with the correct threads. Cut a slot where the bolt head is removed so you can get a screwdriver to thread them into the bell housing. Use these as line-up tools when you reinstall the trans. [Edit: This will hang the transmission in place while you get a chance to fiddle with the input shaft line up.] 2) Get one of these battery carry straps that fits over the posts and you carry the battery hanging from the posts on a strap. Bolt it to where the transmission shift top has been removed and use it as a handle to lift the transmission in and out. I have a photo of this somewhere but I can't find it right now! -VT/JeffH in the DC 'burbs woodiewagon46 06-20-2014 @ 3:56 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 704 Joined: Nov 2012 I removed the pilot bearing with a coping chisel. They come in various sizes and the end is cupped sort of like a fingernail. The one I used is 1/4" and I just cut a groove out of the bushing, just following the bore, and it came right out. carcrazy 06-20-2014 @ 2:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1667 Joined: Oct 2009 One slick trick I have used with success to remove the pilot bearing is to: fill the space behind the bearing and the bore of it with heavy chassis grease, insert a wooden dowel or cut-off piece of an old broom handle of the correct diameter (to be snug in the bore) and hit the end of the dowel with a hammer. The pilot bearing will pop right out. cliftford 06-20-2014 @ 8:45 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 845 Joined: Jan 2014 the TO bearing is easy. It can be pryed or pressed off and on the collar. For the pilot bearing you can use a special 2 jaw puller that reaches inside the bearing and has a small slide hammer to tap it out. If none is available, I've done it by taking a piece of 1/4 rod, bend the end 90 degrees,grind the rnd down so it will go in the bearing, put a vice grip on the other end and tap with a light hammer MICHV8 06-20-2014 @ 6:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 444 Joined: Jul 2010 I'm about to do this is for the first time...are there any "gotchas" with the pilot bearing or throw out bearing removal? Special tools? Thanks. supereal 06-19-2014 @ 9:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Good ideas, Mike we usually replace the release shaft, too, as it is almost always worn. If the shaft bosses don't have grease fittings, we add them, as well. Same is true of the pedal bushings and shaft. As you mention, small amounts of free play are magnified by the geometry of the linkage. As for handling the transmission, it may only weigh about 60 pounds, but when you are hunched over the floorboards trying to pull the slippery unit back, up, and out, it is plenty heavy for most of us old guys. I learned the hook trick from old timers in the Ford garage many years ago. If the flywheel surface is not being machined, be sure to scour it. We use Scotch Brite wheels in a drill. JM 06-19-2014 @ 5:07 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 823 Joined: Oct 2009 LarryK, where are you in Maryland? Near what city or town? Are you possibly a member of EFV-8 Club's Regional Group, RG36, here in Maryland? There are a lot of knowledgeable V8ers in our group. Some may be willing to help you out on this depending on how close you are to them. John kubes40 06-19-2014 @ 1:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3406 Joined: Oct 2009 Larry, I apologize in that I forgot to mention the need to remove the clutch pedal lever and spring. Pretty obvious stuff. Anyway, I would suggest that if the hole that the clevis goes through is worn, weld it up and drill to the proper size. If the clevis pin is worn - replace it. Also, the bushings in the transmission case that the clutch rod rests in - if those bushings are worn, replace them too. Now is the time. You will be amazed at how 1/16" here and a 1/16" there add up to equal very little free play.

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