| LarryK | -- 06-17-2014 @ 8:37 AM |
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I plan to have my transmission rebuilt. What is the general procedure for removal/replacement? The car is stock and has a nicely restored interior and exterior finish which I would not want to be damaged. I do not have the facilities to do this myself. Any suggestions for rebuilders? I am in Maryland, but willing to have the transmission shipped to a rebuilder. Thanks. Nuke
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| kubes40 | -- 06-17-2014 @ 9:47 AM |
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I have done more of these procedures than I care to recall. And, in fact, I am doing yet another in two weeks. I have found it easier to disconnect the torque tube from the transmission, lower the differential and remove the transmission vs. removing the engine. You MUST remove the transmission through the floor boards. It will not "drop" out from below. To remove with my preferred method, raise the rear of the car and place jack stands beneath the frame. Remove the seat or move it back as far as possible and cover. Remove the gear shift lever and floor mat. Remove the floor boards. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the driven gear. Disconnect the torque tube from the rear of the transmission. Disconnect the rubber brake line and parking brake cable at the (near) front of the torque tube. Remove the shocks from the frame. With a floor jack beneath the differential center section, remove the spring "u-bolts". Lower the "read end" and roll the complete assembly back a mere 6" or so. Place a floor jack beneath the oil pan (place plywood between pan and jack) and apply just enough "lift" to keep engine in place. Working within the passenger compartment remove bolts fastening the transmission case to the engine block as well as the transmission mounts to the frame. Remove transmission. as far a s rebuilding these units - it is really not very difficult to do yourself. Still, if you don;t have the facilities and / or confidence, you can't go wrong with Mac VanPelt. He knows what he is doing and is fair.
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| Stroker | -- 06-17-2014 @ 4:26 PM |
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Larry K: Kube should be writing "how-to" manuals for folks that didn't grow up flogging early Fords. What he posted above is a beautiful example of step-by-step instructions that the next generation will desperately need in order to maintain our beloved rides. It's one thing to troubleshoot, and make supplier/source recommendations. Perhaps when he gets the latest 40 Ford Book offering done, he would consider authoring some procedural subjects. If I were to pull the transmission in my 38 with 39 hydraulic brakes. (which I have done several times during my 55-year custodianship), I would have done it exactly the way he posted.
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| supereal | -- 06-17-2014 @ 8:38 PM |
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It is important to remember the transmission is heavy. I use a heavy steel hook, sort of like a bale hook, and remove the inspection plate so it can be inserted. Then with both feet astride the transmission, I pull it back out of the clutch, using the hook and the shift lever on a top loader, to hoist it out. Use plenty of protection for your upholstery, as tranmissions are usually covered with greasy grime.
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| TomO | -- 06-18-2014 @ 9:05 AM |
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Mike gave you all of the steps, but I like to jack up the motor and transmission slightly to give better access to the lower U-Joint nuts. To get to the upper nuts, I use a couple of long 3/8" drive extensions. The job is easier with the front seat removed as he suggested and be sure to cover any upholstery left in the car. The grease will fly to any unprotected area. Tom
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| 39topless | -- 06-18-2014 @ 10:39 AM |
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Great step by step instructions. Makes it sound so EASY!!!! Perhaps, with the tranny out, you should replace clutch, pressure plate etc. Would be a good time to do it. Good luck.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 06-18-2014 @ 10:55 AM |
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WOW, Kubes did just about everything except come over to your garage and help you. It's great to have such knowledgeable people on these sites. One thing I might add is to change EVERYTHING, clutch related, while you have the transmission out! Now is the time!
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| TonyM | -- 06-18-2014 @ 11:30 AM |
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Trans ain't that heavy. I was able to grasp the trans and remove it by hand with no tools or hooks. It weighs about 60 lbs. . . . 78-73B
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| LarryK | -- 06-19-2014 @ 8:10 AM |
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Thanks everyone for these great responses. I couldn't ask for a more complete breakdown of the job. These upbeat responses have me considering that I should try this myself. I am going to "walk through" the steps that Kubes outlined, locate everything, and make sure I am comfortable taking it on. And I will replace the clutch disc and throughout bearing and related parts as needed. It would help if I was a couple years younger than this car. But this is what keeps us young, right. Right? Nuke
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| cliftford | -- 06-19-2014 @ 10:00 AM |
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Also, definitely replace the pilot bearing at the same time. Gene
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| kubes40 | -- 06-19-2014 @ 1:47 PM |
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Larry, I apologize in that I forgot to mention the need to remove the clutch pedal lever and spring. Pretty obvious stuff. Anyway, I would suggest that if the hole that the clevis goes through is worn, weld it up and drill to the proper size. If the clevis pin is worn - replace it. Also, the bushings in the transmission case that the clutch rod rests in - if those bushings are worn, replace them too. Now is the time. You will be amazed at how 1/16" here and a 1/16" there add up to equal very little free play.
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| JM | -- 06-19-2014 @ 5:07 PM |
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LarryK, where are you in Maryland? Near what city or town? Are you possibly a member of EFV-8 Club's Regional Group, RG36, here in Maryland? There are a lot of knowledgeable V8ers in our group. Some may be willing to help you out on this depending on how close you are to them. John
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| supereal | -- 06-19-2014 @ 9:06 PM |
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Good ideas, Mike we usually replace the release shaft, too, as it is almost always worn. If the shaft bosses don't have grease fittings, we add them, as well. Same is true of the pedal bushings and shaft. As you mention, small amounts of free play are magnified by the geometry of the linkage. As for handling the transmission, it may only weigh about 60 pounds, but when you are hunched over the floorboards trying to pull the slippery unit back, up, and out, it is plenty heavy for most of us old guys. I learned the hook trick from old timers in the Ford garage many years ago. If the flywheel surface is not being machined, be sure to scour it. We use Scotch Brite wheels in a drill.
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| MICHV8 | -- 06-20-2014 @ 6:55 AM |
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I'm about to do this is for the first time...are there any "gotchas" with the pilot bearing or throw out bearing removal? Special tools? Thanks.
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| cliftford | -- 06-20-2014 @ 8:45 AM |
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the TO bearing is easy. It can be pryed or pressed off and on the collar. For the pilot bearing you can use a special 2 jaw puller that reaches inside the bearing and has a small slide hammer to tap it out. If none is available, I've done it by taking a piece of 1/4 rod, bend the end 90 degrees,grind the rnd down so it will go in the bearing, put a vice grip on the other end and tap with a light hammer
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| carcrazy | -- 06-20-2014 @ 2:11 PM |
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One slick trick I have used with success to remove the pilot bearing is to: fill the space behind the bearing and the bore of it with heavy chassis grease, insert a wooden dowel or cut-off piece of an old broom handle of the correct diameter (to be snug in the bore) and hit the end of the dowel with a hammer. The pilot bearing will pop right out.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 06-20-2014 @ 3:56 PM |
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I removed the pilot bearing with a coping chisel. They come in various sizes and the end is cupped sort of like a fingernail. The one I used is 1/4" and I just cut a groove out of the bushing, just following the bore, and it came right out.
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| VT/JeffH | -- 06-20-2014 @ 7:27 PM |
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Hi Larry! Here are a couple of thoughts from an old post somewhere: There are at least two tips I could pass along though. 1) Get two 6-8 inch long bolts that fit the bell housing to transmission mounting holes, remove the bolt heads and now you have a rod with the correct threads. Cut a slot where the bolt head is removed so you can get a screwdriver to thread them into the bell housing. Use these as line-up tools when you reinstall the trans. [Edit: This will hang the transmission in place while you get a chance to fiddle with the input shaft line up.] 2) Get one of these battery carry straps that fits over the posts and you carry the battery hanging from the posts on a strap. Bolt it to where the transmission shift top has been removed and use it as a handle to lift the transmission in and out. I have a photo of this somewhere but I can't find it right now! -VT/JeffH in the DC 'burbs
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| LarryK | -- 06-25-2014 @ 5:36 AM |
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John, I live in Gaithersburg, Maryland. I have been to a few meetings of the local regional group. Do not know what the procedure is for joining. Larry
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| TomO | -- 06-26-2014 @ 7:21 AM |
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Larry, Here is a link to the membership information. http://clubs.hemmings.com/nationalcapitalregion//html/membership_info.html I am sure that you will enjoy touring and discussing the cars with other members of the National Capital Regional Group. They are a great bunch of people. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-26-14 @ 7:24 AM
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