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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Starting a 1940 ford coupe

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Discussion Topic: Starting a 1940 ford coupe -- page: 1 2 3

40 Coupe

05-18-2014 @ 3:52 AM

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If you have charged the battery and the battery voltage drops quickly, as low as your saying, when turning the engine over, the battery is BAD! The load test on the battery confirmed this.
The two post on the battery are different sizes. One is larger than the other. Some of the replacement battery cables are not made for + ground so the cable terminals do not fit the battery properly, this may be why the battery cable will not go all the way on to the battery post.

40guy

05-17-2014 @ 8:07 PM

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I am pretty sure he has had the battery for around 6 to 8 years. It is a red top optimum battery. Is it smart to put that back or does anyone have any suggestions?

trjford8

05-17-2014 @ 7:54 PM

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Sounds like you found the problem. How old is the battery? They are usually date coded on the top or there may be some documentation in the glove box to give you a hint as to the age of the battery.

40guy

05-17-2014 @ 2:54 PM

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I have had the battery load tested and it reads right at 6 volts until the load is applied and then it drops to nothing. Should this be my problem?

This message was edited by 40guy on 5-17-14 @ 5:34 PM

keith oh

05-17-2014 @ 12:22 PM

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No FIRST!!!! You need to check the water level in battery, then charge.

39topless

05-17-2014 @ 9:17 AM

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FIRST!!!! You need to charge the battery like TomO says. If it won't hold a charge, go get a new battery.

40guy

05-17-2014 @ 8:34 AM

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The only time I had the charger hooked up was to crank the engine and I had it set to the start position. Again, it still would not crank the engine but would die and eventually quit. I left the battery in the car with nothing turned on and checked it with a meter and it read a little over 6 volts then I turned the lights on and it fell to 1volt. Do I have a dead cell issue possibly?

TomO

05-17-2014 @ 8:29 AM

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If you have an Optima battery in the car, you need to do a slow charge, 10 amps maximum for 6-12 hours. Using the boost function of the charger can damage the battery.

After you charge it, you can test it to see if it charged up fully, by using a meter across the battery and cranking the engine with the starter. The battery voltage should remain above 5.5 volts while cranking the engine.

The same procedure will work for a conventional battery. Patience is the key to maintaining these old cars.

Tom

40guy

05-17-2014 @ 8:03 AM

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Everything on the car is correct for the car and concorse. I know everything such as that is correct. The positive terminal won't fit all the way down on the optimum terminal. Could this be my troubles?

rotorwrench

05-17-2014 @ 7:07 AM

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The 6-volt systems require clean terminal connections and proper wire or cable size for the least resistance to current flow. Cleaning terminals and insuring the correct guage of cable from battery to solenoid/ground & solenoid to starter is a start. The starter may be dragging due to bearing wear or the brushes may be worn down & have a dirty commutator or the like. A battery can be tested with a high rate dicharge test but it is getting difficult to find shops that have any 6-volt test equipment now days. It may be easier to purchase a new battery if it is supect. Good gound return connections are a must too. Starter to block, block to frame, and battery to frame or block all need to be checked.

6-Volt systems have a low electromotive force by design so well maintained circuits are a must. Some folks like the little Optima battery but any new 6-volt battery that fits the box should do.

This message was edited by rotorwrench on 5-17-14 @ 7:11 AM

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