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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Low speed steering wobble with '40 steering box?

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Low speed steering wobble with '40 steering box? -- page: 1 2

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Flatbob
01-27-2014 @ 3:23 PM
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Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
It sounds like I didn't go far enough when I had the box on the bench. At the time it looked to me like I would need a press to completely disassemble it. I'll give it h*ll tomorrow. Appreciate the help.
UPDATE: Removed one (1) shim and completely locked up steering wheel; but pitman arm still moves back and forth. Ordered parts to rebuild.

This message was edited by Flatbob on 1-28-14 @ 3:20 PM

deuce_roadster
01-27-2014 @ 2:57 PM
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Posts: 284
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I would say there should be no play in the pitman arm, it should be rock solid. I'm afraid you need to take that box back apart. Did you replace the bushing in the housing that the sector goes through?
Do you have the tapered bearings that hold the worm in the housing set with the paper gaskets to have no up and down play, but turn freely? The play you describe is coming from somewhere.

Flatbob
01-27-2014 @ 1:35 PM
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Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Thought I was on to something but adjusting cross shaft screw had no affect on the play in the steering. When I had the'36 box in the car I don't remember being able to rock the wheels back and forth when they were off the ground. Checked the '36 box and there is no play in the shaft in either direction. With the amount of play I have I can see why it would wobble when going down the road. Should there be any play in the pitman arm, I'm able to rock it back and forth which translate to quite a bit of movement at the wheels.

This message was edited by Flatbob on 1-27-14 @ 2:35 PM

deuce_roadster
01-27-2014 @ 12:46 PM
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Posts: 284
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Sounds like you are zeroing in on it. My steering boxes have an equal amount of slack at each end of the travel, left and right.
If you don't find anything amiss with the tie rod ends or drag link ends check your outer wheel bearings.
Good luck.
If by "cross shaft" they mean sector, by all means that must be correct.

This message was edited by deuce_roadster on 1-27-14 @ 12:49 PM

Flatbob
01-27-2014 @ 12:21 PM
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Posts: 437
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Deuce-roadster, didn't pay enough attention to your original post about end play, think that may be the problem.

Flatbob
01-27-2014 @ 12:19 PM
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Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I may have made this more complicated than necessary. With the wheels off the ground I can grab a wheel with my hands and rock it side to side; I shouldn't be able to do that should I? Seems sloppy loose to me. Would this be corrected by adjusting "cross shaft end play" as described in the '40 engine & chassis repair manual?

Flatbob
01-27-2014 @ 11:56 AM
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Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Okay, car is off the ground with jack stands under axle, showing 7° of caster to the rear but am getting 2° camber in on left wheel and 1° camber out on right wheel. The resistance spot you mention at the halfway point into the L/R position is pronounced as you describe so I believe the steering box is assembled correctly. Any suggestion on how I can accurately measure toe in; I think the method I was using was not a good way? Back to the steering box, it seems as though steering box is assembled correctly & all the steering gear is as it should be; why does the steering wheel have no play to the left and way too much play to the right when tires are on the ground? Will see if I have an out of round condition.

deuce_roadster
01-27-2014 @ 11:31 AM
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Posts: 284
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I forgot to mention to check the ball at the back of the wishbone. That could let the whole front end move if the rubber was gone or cap was loose.

supereal
01-27-2014 @ 11:03 AM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
In addition to my post on the setting of the "high spot", The wobble is another concern. I fought that problem in my "Model A" days. All wheels, front and back, should be checked for "runout". That is, to find any that are bent or oblong instead of round. Same is true of the tires, themselves. We have found many that are lopsided. The amount of toe-in can set off a wobble, particulary if there is any play in the steering box. We used to set that at zero. If you are getting the wobble around 15 mph, wheel balance is probably not a factor. If the problem continues, over inflate the tires, one at a time, to see if there is a difference. Same is true of swapping wheels to different positions. Rear wheels and tires are often the cause of wobble or shimmy. It can be a dangerous condition.

Flatbob
01-27-2014 @ 9:25 AM
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Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
          
As soon as the garage warms up a little bit with the heaters on today, will see if I can do what has been suggested.

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