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Discussion Topic:
Head gasket
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ronnie |
12-24-2013 @ 6:07 AM
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New Member
Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013
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I am putting my 41 Ford engine together and are getting ready To instal the heads. I read in V8 Times where a reader was Advised to put copper sealant on the the head gaskets before Intalling the heads. I have never heard of this ,is this a common practice? Are they talking about Permatex gasket sealant? thanks very much Ronnie
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TomO |
12-24-2013 @ 8:19 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7252
Joined: Oct 2009
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Victor gasket and Fel-Pro recommend that no additional coating should be applied to their head gaskets. If you are using metal gaskets without a fibrous coating on both sides, you can use the spray coating available from Permatex. I recommend the FelPro or Victor gaskets as they have never failed me and they do not need to be re-torqued. They are still available from most parts houses as part of an overhaul kit. P/N FS7283B for the 2 small round water hole in the center or P/N FS7548B for the heads with the trapezoidal water hole opening. Here is a link to proper head gasket installation procedures: http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Head%20Gasket%20Installation.pdf Here is a link to gasket tech bulletins that address gasket failures. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Pages/Bulletins-Gaskets%20and%20Seals.aspx#.Urmy5LRiVmM Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 12-24-13 @ 8:30 AM
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Oldad |
12-24-2013 @ 9:05 AM
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New Member
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Joined: May 2012
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I agree with Tom that our current generation of head gaskets do not require additional coatings. They are coated at the factory. The idea of coatings was prevalent forty years ago and for good reason. I installed a lot of racing head gaskets at that time. The head gaskets at that time required a coating to allow the gasket to shift while it was being torqued down. The current generation are coated when you buy them I am sure you have read it many times but be sure your surfaces are flat.
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ronnie |
12-24-2013 @ 9:38 AM
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New Member
Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013
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thanks for the information and links,that answered my question. this is my first restoration of an Early Ford. the best advice I Have received was to join the Early Ford V-8 Club and check Out the forum. The wealth of knowledge that you guys have is amazing. I have lots of questions,I hope I don't wear out my Welcome. thanks again Ronnie
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joe b |
12-24-2013 @ 11:43 AM
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Member
Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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Ronnie, I doubt you will wear out your welcome. This is the whole purpose of the web site; to answer questions and share information. I have a '41 Coupe. Good luck with yours!
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supereal |
12-24-2013 @ 1:15 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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One final recommendation: take your cylinder heads to a good machine shop and have them resurfaced before reinstallation. Almost all old heads have some warp from torquing over the years. Most of the leaking head gaskets we see are due to eliminating this step.
This message was edited by supereal on 12-24-13 @ 1:15 PM
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ronnie |
12-24-2013 @ 2:51 PM
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New Member
Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013
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Thanks for the kind words and information. I always knew To check aluminum heads, But I can see now that the cast iron Heads on a flathead may warp. I will take them by the Machine shop and have them checked. Thanks Ronnie
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supereal |
12-26-2013 @ 8:52 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Good idea, Ronnie. Cast iron is an amazingly pliable material, in spite of its appearance. Old cast iron is constantly trying to return to the original ore composition, and if our old Fords hadn't been heavily over engineered, most would have disappeared long ago.
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ronnie |
12-27-2013 @ 4:10 AM
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New Member
Posts: 123
Joined: Jun 2013
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thanks supernal,what would be the maximum you would Taken off a stock 41 Ford head before you would toss Them and look for another set. thanks again Ronnie
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supereal |
12-27-2013 @ 6:00 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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We first check the head with a straightedge to determine how much warpage is present. If the problem is extreme, the head may not be usable. If it is in relative good condition, we check the variance by placing a feeler gauge under the low spots. Anything over 010 to .020 is probably "iffy". An experienced machinist will only make passes in the grinder to exhibit a surface free of visible defects.
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