| ronnie | -- 12-24-2013 @ 6:07 AM |
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I am putting my 41 Ford engine together and are getting ready To instal the heads. I read in V8 Times where a reader was Advised to put copper sealant on the the head gaskets before Intalling the heads. I have never heard of this ,is this a common practice? Are they talking about Permatex gasket sealant? thanks very much Ronnie
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| TomO | -- 12-24-2013 @ 8:19 AM |
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Victor gasket and Fel-Pro recommend that no additional coating should be applied to their head gaskets. If you are using metal gaskets without a fibrous coating on both sides, you can use the spray coating available from Permatex. I recommend the FelPro or Victor gaskets as they have never failed me and they do not need to be re-torqued. They are still available from most parts houses as part of an overhaul kit. P/N FS7283B for the 2 small round water hole in the center or P/N FS7548B for the heads with the trapezoidal water hole opening. Here is a link to proper head gasket installation procedures: http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Head%20Gasket%20Installation.pdf Here is a link to gasket tech bulletins that address gasket failures. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Pages/Bulletins-Gaskets%20and%20Seals.aspx#.Urmy5LRiVmM Tom This message was edited by TomO on 12-24-13 @ 8:30 AM
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| Oldad | -- 12-24-2013 @ 9:05 AM |
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I agree with Tom that our current generation of head gaskets do not require additional coatings. They are coated at the factory. The idea of coatings was prevalent forty years ago and for good reason. I installed a lot of racing head gaskets at that time. The head gaskets at that time required a coating to allow the gasket to shift while it was being torqued down. The current generation are coated when you buy them I am sure you have read it many times but be sure your surfaces are flat.
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| ronnie | -- 12-24-2013 @ 9:38 AM |
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thanks for the information and links,that answered my question. this is my first restoration of an Early Ford. the best advice I Have received was to join the Early Ford V-8 Club and check Out the forum. The wealth of knowledge that you guys have is amazing. I have lots of questions,I hope I don't wear out my Welcome. thanks again Ronnie
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| joe b | -- 12-24-2013 @ 11:43 AM |
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Ronnie, I doubt you will wear out your welcome. This is the whole purpose of the web site; to answer questions and share information. I have a '41 Coupe. Good luck with yours!
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| supereal | -- 12-24-2013 @ 1:15 PM |
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One final recommendation: take your cylinder heads to a good machine shop and have them resurfaced before reinstallation. Almost all old heads have some warp from torquing over the years. Most of the leaking head gaskets we see are due to eliminating this step. This message was edited by supereal on 12-24-13 @ 1:15 PM
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| ronnie | -- 12-24-2013 @ 2:51 PM |
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Thanks for the kind words and information. I always knew To check aluminum heads, But I can see now that the cast iron Heads on a flathead may warp. I will take them by the Machine shop and have them checked. Thanks Ronnie
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| supereal | -- 12-26-2013 @ 8:52 PM |
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Good idea, Ronnie. Cast iron is an amazingly pliable material, in spite of its appearance. Old cast iron is constantly trying to return to the original ore composition, and if our old Fords hadn't been heavily over engineered, most would have disappeared long ago.
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| ronnie | -- 12-27-2013 @ 4:10 AM |
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thanks supernal,what would be the maximum you would Taken off a stock 41 Ford head before you would toss Them and look for another set. thanks again Ronnie
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| supereal | -- 12-27-2013 @ 6:00 PM |
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We first check the head with a straightedge to determine how much warpage is present. If the problem is extreme, the head may not be usable. If it is in relative good condition, we check the variance by placing a feeler gauge under the low spots. Anything over 010 to .020 is probably "iffy". An experienced machinist will only make passes in the grinder to exhibit a surface free of visible defects.
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| ronnie | -- 12-28-2013 @ 2:52 AM |
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Thanks very much supereal,going to take heads by machine Shop next week Ronnie
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| kubes40 | -- 12-28-2013 @ 6:37 AM |
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I'd like to add a bit to the already good advice you've been offered. 1) There is no definitive answer as to the amount you can mill from the heads at this point as we (you) have no idea as to whether they have been milled in the past. 2) A truly good machinist with automotive "hands on" experience will mill the heads both to make them "true" and also to match one another in volume. That being said, I'd suggest that the worst head (check with a straight edge) be milled first. Once done, the combustion chambers can and should be checked for volume. Once that value is known, the second head can be milled to that same depth. If your chosen machine shop is not familiar with this procedure - run. I would strongly suggest you check valve clearance prior to permanently installing the heads. Too many times, a non-stock cam may have been installed and in combination to the milled heads can create an interference issue.
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| ronnie | -- 12-28-2013 @ 11:16 AM |
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Thanks Kube for the informaation,I sure am learning a lot From all of you. thanks Ronnie
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| supereal | -- 12-29-2013 @ 7:11 AM |
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In addition to being a world class restorer, my friend Mike is a machinist, and knows his stuff. If in doubt of whether valve clearance is adequate, we place modeling clay in that section of the head, then put on a head gasket, followed by the head. Turn the engine enough to allow the valves for the clayed cylinder to rise and fall, then remove the head and examine the clay to see if any clearance was breached. We see very few heads are our shop that have a problem, aftermarket finned heads are an exception, same with non Ford cams. If the engine was running OK, taking off just enough to produce an overall bright surface is the idea,
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| ronnie | -- 12-29-2013 @ 2:13 PM |
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Thanks supernal.There are a lot of knowedgeable people on This forum.Most of my engine experience has been with latter Model OHVs, we would use the clay when changing cam or Shaving head,works great. this is my first restoration on an early Ford. My car is a 40 Tudor with a 41 engine.The car had been sitting about 8yrs. I had gotten the engine running,(change oil, Clean carb).Had good compression and oil pressure.Decided To paint engine and replace gaskets and seals,figured there Maybe a stuck oil ring or two so decided to rering.Checked bearing Clearance. It look as if it had low miles on a complete rebuild. Thanks for all the advice. I have a lot more questions. Thanks again Ronnie
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