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Discussion Topic:
Removing 1937 Rear End and Trans
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TonyM |
10-12-2013 @ 3:58 PM
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Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Sep 2010
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Trans is out. Thanks for all the help guys. Hope to be on the road soon.
. . . 78-73B
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1934 Ford |
10-12-2013 @ 5:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Alan, Not more important, just saves work. It wasn't included in the initial steps of the first post. I've seen people try it with the wheels on and they have to raise the car so high to get the rearend out from under the car, it makes it harder as well as to get in and out of the car to pull the transmission. While I do like my beer, it's after the job is done.
1934 Ford's since 1972
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ford38v8 |
10-11-2013 @ 6:07 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2759
Joined: Oct 2009
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Paul, I don't know that any one part is more important than another, they're all important to get the job done, right? On how hard the job is, yeah, one man can do it, but two can do it better, and I'd say it's about a one six pack job, wouldn't you?
Alan
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1934 Ford |
10-11-2013 @ 2:56 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tony M, All this advice is good (Especially removing the rear wheels) The job is not as big as it sounds. I've done it on all my 34 Fords for 40 years, just as suggested. Now in my late 60's I can still do it alone, but it's more fun with another V8 guy as a helper. It really doesn't take long, just a dirty job. 1934 Ford's since 1972
This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 10-11-13 @ 2:57 PM
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TonyM |
10-10-2013 @ 3:38 PM
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Member
Posts: 458
Joined: Sep 2010
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Thanks guys. Looking forward to getting it done. Yep Alan, four jack stands for sure. Fla48, Front seat has been out for some time now. And back seat and carpet are covered. TomO., pulling engine is not possible at this location. Superreal, I have a manhole cover tool that will stand in for a bailing hook. Looking forward to doing this work and getting my car back on the road. My neighbors miss the car too and have been asking where it is. I was driving nearly every day, and now no Ford V-8 driving. I will be back on the road soon. Thanks to all for the help. TM . . . 78-73B
This message was edited by TonyM on 10-10-13 @ 3:54 PM
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ford38v8 |
10-10-2013 @ 10:25 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2759
Joined: Oct 2009
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All of the above advice is good. The one thing I'd add is to support the frame front and back with jackstands. One set of rolling wheels on the ground will getcha in deep doodo quicker than you can you can say crooked jackstands.
Alan
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TomO |
10-10-2013 @ 8:10 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7253
Joined: Oct 2009
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All of the above advice is good, but if your clutch has not been replaced, I would consider pulling the engine so that the flywheel can be removed to be refaced and replace the clutch. I like to raise the engine to gain access to the U-Joint bolts and to give me more clearance when removing the trans. Doing this raises the back end of the trans. high enough to clear the floor boards when you slide it back. You should disconnect the chatter bars and the exhaust pipes before doing this.
Tom
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supereal |
10-09-2013 @ 8:32 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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We support the rear end with a floor jack after placing good jack stands under the frame. Then the rear wheels come off to allow more space, both to clear the inner fenders and give good access. The axle can then be lowered enough for the spring to clear the cross member, and be rolled back on the floor jack so the drive shaft comes out of the u-joint. With the engine supported in place, the two rear motor mount center bolts removed, and the clutch shaft extension off, the transmission can be pulled back and out of the clutch, using the shift lever as a handle. Straddle the floor opening and brace against both sides as you pull the transmission up and out. We use a big hook unserted thru the inspection cover hole to help manage the weight. It is homemade, and resembles a baling hook, if you are familiar with that farming tool. Tom's advice regarding protecting the interior from the inevitable greasy mess is "spot on" (pun intended). Unbolting the u-joint from the rear of the transmission gives extra room. It is held on by a bolt thru the center of the joint. Be sure to save the thick washer on that bolt, as it is a required spacer.
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fla48 |
10-09-2013 @ 6:38 PM
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New Member
Posts: 128
Joined: Nov 2011
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Remove the front seat. That will give you a lot more room to work with and is easier to get the transmission out.
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trjford8 |
10-09-2013 @ 6:18 PM
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Senior
Posts: 4215
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tony, when pulling the transmission from inside the car be sure to cover all the upholstery with towels, moving blankets ,etc. When they are not covered your chances of getting some grease on a nice upholstery job are almost 100%.
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