| TonyM | -- 10-09-2013 @ 10:49 AM |
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I have been reading some Ford books in preparation of removing my 1937 Ford (85) rear differential and torque tube so that the transmission can be removed for a rebuild. Here is what I have: Disconnect rear brake cables at the cross shaft Disconnect shock links Loosen brake conduit clamps Remove U-joint cover Support engine at rear Disconnect rear spring from frame Drop differential down and slide back to disconnect drive tube from transmission Is there any more? One book, The Complete Ford Owner's Handbook, says that the engine should be "jacked up as high as it can go" so that the trans can be removed up and inside the car. Is this necessary? Can the trans be removed from below without jacking up the engine? And if the engine is jacked up, what about the exhaust? Will it be stressed by jacking up the engine? There is no detailed instruction other than removing the fan and generator so they don't contact the radiator, but I would imagine that disconnecting the throttle rod and choke rod, disconnecting the upper radiator hoses would also be necessary. Any thoughts or advice? The books call only for disconnecting the speedo cable before removing trans. I would think one would have to also disconnect the clutch pedal linkage to help with trans removal. THE REAL QUESTION: Do I really need to jack up the engine and will it stress the exhaust system? Can I remove the trans from the bottom? Should I disconnect the shock links and spring / frame bolts while the car is on its wheels? Any other information or advice is greatly appreciated. . . . 78-73B This message was edited by TonyM on 10-9-13 @ 12:48 PM
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| kubes40 | -- 10-09-2013 @ 1:19 PM |
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The simplified directions you'd listed are right on the money. This is not a difficult job. It is not necessary to jack up the engine. You do however, want to support it. The transmission must be reomved from top. Once I have removed the floor boards and disconnected the speedometer cable and torque tube "clam sh*ll" I prefer to get the car up on a good pair of jack stands and only then drop the differential (spring, shocks, etc.) and roll that entire assembly back. You only need to roll it back about 6" - 8" at most. The forward end of the torque tube can remain in the "tunnel". This message was edited by kubes40 on 10-9-13 @ 1:23 PM
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| TonyM | -- 10-09-2013 @ 1:37 PM |
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Thanks Kube. . . . 78-73B
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| trjford8 | -- 10-09-2013 @ 6:18 PM |
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Tony, when pulling the transmission from inside the car be sure to cover all the upholstery with towels, moving blankets ,etc. When they are not covered your chances of getting some grease on a nice upholstery job are almost 100%.
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| fla48 | -- 10-09-2013 @ 6:38 PM |
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Remove the front seat. That will give you a lot more room to work with and is easier to get the transmission out.
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| supereal | -- 10-09-2013 @ 8:32 PM |
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We support the rear end with a floor jack after placing good jack stands under the frame. Then the rear wheels come off to allow more space, both to clear the inner fenders and give good access. The axle can then be lowered enough for the spring to clear the cross member, and be rolled back on the floor jack so the drive shaft comes out of the u-joint. With the engine supported in place, the two rear motor mount center bolts removed, and the clutch shaft extension off, the transmission can be pulled back and out of the clutch, using the shift lever as a handle. Straddle the floor opening and brace against both sides as you pull the transmission up and out. We use a big hook unserted thru the inspection cover hole to help manage the weight. It is homemade, and resembles a baling hook, if you are familiar with that farming tool. Tom's advice regarding protecting the interior from the inevitable greasy mess is "spot on" (pun intended). Unbolting the u-joint from the rear of the transmission gives extra room. It is held on by a bolt thru the center of the joint. Be sure to save the thick washer on that bolt, as it is a required spacer.
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| TomO | -- 10-10-2013 @ 8:10 AM |
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All of the above advice is good, but if your clutch has not been replaced, I would consider pulling the engine so that the flywheel can be removed to be refaced and replace the clutch. I like to raise the engine to gain access to the U-Joint bolts and to give me more clearance when removing the trans. Doing this raises the back end of the trans. high enough to clear the floor boards when you slide it back. You should disconnect the chatter bars and the exhaust pipes before doing this. Tom
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-10-2013 @ 10:25 AM |
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All of the above advice is good. The one thing I'd add is to support the frame front and back with jackstands. One set of rolling wheels on the ground will getcha in deep doodo quicker than you can you can say crooked jackstands. Alan
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| TonyM | -- 10-10-2013 @ 3:38 PM |
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Thanks guys. Looking forward to getting it done. Yep Alan, four jack stands for sure. Fla48, Front seat has been out for some time now. And back seat and carpet are covered. TomO., pulling engine is not possible at this location. Superreal, I have a manhole cover tool that will stand in for a bailing hook. Looking forward to doing this work and getting my car back on the road. My neighbors miss the car too and have been asking where it is. I was driving nearly every day, and now no Ford V-8 driving. I will be back on the road soon. Thanks to all for the help. TM . . . 78-73B This message was edited by TonyM on 10-10-13 @ 3:54 PM
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| 1934 Ford | -- 10-11-2013 @ 2:56 PM |
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Tony M, All this advice is good (Especially removing the rear wheels) The job is not as big as it sounds. I've done it on all my 34 Fords for 40 years, just as suggested. Now in my late 60's I can still do it alone, but it's more fun with another V8 guy as a helper. It really doesn't take long, just a dirty job. 1934 Ford's since 1972 This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 10-11-13 @ 2:57 PM
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| ford38v8 | -- 10-11-2013 @ 6:07 PM |
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Paul, I don't know that any one part is more important than another, they're all important to get the job done, right? On how hard the job is, yeah, one man can do it, but two can do it better, and I'd say it's about a one six pack job, wouldn't you? Alan
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| 1934 Ford | -- 10-12-2013 @ 5:16 AM |
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Alan, Not more important, just saves work. It wasn't included in the initial steps of the first post. I've seen people try it with the wheels on and they have to raise the car so high to get the rearend out from under the car, it makes it harder as well as to get in and out of the car to pull the transmission. While I do like my beer, it's after the job is done. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| TonyM | -- 10-12-2013 @ 3:58 PM |
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Trans is out. Thanks for all the help guys. Hope to be on the road soon. . . . 78-73B
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