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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 41 ford overheats

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Discussion Topic: 41 ford overheats -- page: 1 2

montanalll

05-25-2013 @ 11:27 AM

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Thanks for the thoughts! Don't really need a thermometer when it is actually boiling. Will try the muffler next and hope.

trjford8

05-20-2013 @ 6:34 PM

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When you say it overheats are you going by the temperature gauge? If you are using the temperature gauge they are not known to be very accurate. As others have said, put a meat thermometer( sneak it out of the house if it happens to belong to your wife) and put it in the radiator. This will give you an accurate reading. If this car has sat for a long time it could be a plugged muffler. Mice have a habit of using mufflers and tailpipes for a home.

TomO

05-19-2013 @ 3:25 AM

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I doubt that your problem is a plugged muffler, but the best check for a plugged exhaust system is a vacuum gauge.

The cooling capacity of your radiator and the air flow across the fins are strained at idle. You can put an 18-24 inch fan in front of the car when it is idling in the driveway. If the car runs cool then, your problem is in the radiator or the fan. Aluminum radiators do not cool as well as the copper ones. Your radiator core should have 4 rows of tubes with louvered fins. Your fan needs to be in good condition and have a strong pull of air through the radiator.

Tom

montanalll

05-15-2013 @ 8:45 PM

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Thanks for the thoughts! I did purchase a brand new aluminum radiator and put it into the car. Same over-heating as before. Hope that the problem is in the muffler, I haven't had the time to take it off yet. Looks brand new but it doesn't sound empty when thumped in the center.

drkbp

05-15-2013 @ 11:01 AM

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Montana,

The folks have already answered with some very good suggestions. However, if the car runs for 25 minutes @ idle but near boil sitting still, then

The only question I have is this:
You said you changed the radiator. Did you put on a new one or another used? The radiator is the one thing I will not skimp on for sure if you want to drive your car.

I would use std (160 degree) thermostats. Check them on the range in a pot of hot water with a thermometer. High temps are 180.

Try to sit in driveway so wind, if any, is slightly coming at the front of the car. Not from behind. You are trying to give your radiator a fair test.

Then with the 160's you should see about 155 with a mechanical thermometer in the top of radiator tank. Also, you can see the water start moving as the thermostats open. Temp will climb a bit for about 30 minutes but not get boiling at all.

Assuming you are good on the other issues and it runs well, the car should not boil with a good radiator.

I have done the above at 75 degrees ambient and the V8 should be able to run a tank out in the drive. I have a '35 and those are often said to run hot. Not so. Run as cool as a Cheby IF you have a good radiator. Just because it does not leak doesn't mean it is good and that the core is the proper thickness (number of rows of tubes). Let us know how it turns out...

Ken in Texas

This message was edited by drkbp on 5-15-13 @ 11:04 AM

montanalll

05-13-2013 @ 8:28 PM

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Thanks for the thought, I will check it out.

supereal

05-13-2013 @ 6:38 AM

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Most flatheads will overheat long before 25 minutes at idle. That seems to indicate that the cooling system is not the problem. As TomO suggested, the exhaust system may be restricted, probably at the muffler. Tap the muffler with a hammer on both the bottom and the side. If you get a "thud" instead of a "ping", it is a good bet the muffler is clogged with soot and other crud. I've seem mufflers blocked internally when the baffles rusted enough to collapse.

montanalll

05-12-2013 @ 4:53 PM

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Thanks for all of the help. 25 minutes at idle and it is at near boiling. The white vinager flush seems like the best next step! Don't know about the water pumps, they spin alright and make no noise, I have been told that there isn't much that can go wrong with them other than bearings. Thanks again everybody.

wilmalcolm

05-12-2013 @ 3:15 PM

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Make sure that your hoses are not collapsing. My '53 truck over heated for years and I tried everything until someone suggested a weak hose that was collapsing.

TomO

05-12-2013 @ 8:28 AM

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If you give a little more information on what kind of driving and the outside temperatures are, you will get answers that are closer to the solution.

First of all check the coolant temperature to determine if the engine is overheating or if it is a sender problem.

Second, determine the average speed that causes overheating. If the engine overheats at idle but is OK at speeds above 20 MPH, the problem is caused by a radiator air flow or a core that is too small for the engine.

If the car only overheats at higher speeds 45 MPh, and above, it probably has insufficient coolant flow. This can be caused by restrictions in the cooling tubes or worn out water pumps.

Worn timing gears can cause overheating at all speeds and a plugged exhaust system will also cause overheating at speeds above idle.

A vacuum gauge can help check out the timing and exhaust systems. Here is a link to a site that explains the use of a vacuum gauge.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105837

Tom

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