| montanalll | -- 05-11-2013 @ 8:43 PM |
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Help!! Recently purchased a 41 convertible fully restored. Overheats after 8 miles. Have changed out the radiator, replaced the thermostats, checked the oil for signs of water and checked the radiator for combustion oders. Any help would be appreciated.
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| Old Henry | -- 05-11-2013 @ 9:28 PM |
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Here's the solution a guy on the Ford Barn just posted that might be worth a try: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105837 Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
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| supereal | -- 05-12-2013 @ 6:30 AM |
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Check the brakes. More than once, we have found that insufficient free play at the brake pedal allowed pressure buildup when the fluid couldn't return after the brakes were applied. This caused the brakes to gradually be applied, overloading the engine. After the car sat for a while, the pressure returned to normal, making diagnosis tough. It can also be caused by a failing residual valve in the master cylinder. Another possibility is one or more corroded wheel cylinders that stick in the bore, common in cars that have not been driven for a long time, or a system contaminated with moisture. Be sure the parking brake is fully releasing, as well, and that you have at least a full inch of brake pedal free play. I suspect that whomever restored your car overlooked the braking system. I've seen it many times.
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| TomO | -- 05-12-2013 @ 8:28 AM |
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If you give a little more information on what kind of driving and the outside temperatures are, you will get answers that are closer to the solution. First of all check the coolant temperature to determine if the engine is overheating or if it is a sender problem. Second, determine the average speed that causes overheating. If the engine overheats at idle but is OK at speeds above 20 MPH, the problem is caused by a radiator air flow or a core that is too small for the engine. If the car only overheats at higher speeds 45 MPh, and above, it probably has insufficient coolant flow. This can be caused by restrictions in the cooling tubes or worn out water pumps. Worn timing gears can cause overheating at all speeds and a plugged exhaust system will also cause overheating at speeds above idle. A vacuum gauge can help check out the timing and exhaust systems. Here is a link to a site that explains the use of a vacuum gauge. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105837 Tom
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| wilmalcolm | -- 05-12-2013 @ 3:15 PM |
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Make sure that your hoses are not collapsing. My '53 truck over heated for years and I tried everything until someone suggested a weak hose that was collapsing.
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| montanalll | -- 05-12-2013 @ 4:53 PM |
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Thanks for all of the help. 25 minutes at idle and it is at near boiling. The white vinager flush seems like the best next step! Don't know about the water pumps, they spin alright and make no noise, I have been told that there isn't much that can go wrong with them other than bearings. Thanks again everybody.
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| supereal | -- 05-13-2013 @ 6:38 AM |
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Most flatheads will overheat long before 25 minutes at idle. That seems to indicate that the cooling system is not the problem. As TomO suggested, the exhaust system may be restricted, probably at the muffler. Tap the muffler with a hammer on both the bottom and the side. If you get a "thud" instead of a "ping", it is a good bet the muffler is clogged with soot and other crud. I've seem mufflers blocked internally when the baffles rusted enough to collapse.
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| montanalll | -- 05-13-2013 @ 8:28 PM |
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Thanks for the thought, I will check it out.
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| drkbp | -- 05-15-2013 @ 11:01 AM |
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Montana, The folks have already answered with some very good suggestions. However, if the car runs for 25 minutes @ idle but near boil sitting still, then The only question I have is this: You said you changed the radiator. Did you put on a new one or another used? The radiator is the one thing I will not skimp on for sure if you want to drive your car. I would use std (160 degree) thermostats. Check them on the range in a pot of hot water with a thermometer. High temps are 180. Try to sit in driveway so wind, if any, is slightly coming at the front of the car. Not from behind. You are trying to give your radiator a fair test. Then with the 160's you should see about 155 with a mechanical thermometer in the top of radiator tank. Also, you can see the water start moving as the thermostats open. Temp will climb a bit for about 30 minutes but not get boiling at all. Assuming you are good on the other issues and it runs well, the car should not boil with a good radiator. I have done the above at 75 degrees ambient and the V8 should be able to run a tank out in the drive. I have a '35 and those are often said to run hot. Not so. Run as cool as a Cheby IF you have a good radiator. Just because it does not leak doesn't mean it is good and that the core is the proper thickness (number of rows of tubes). Let us know how it turns out... Ken in Texas This message was edited by drkbp on 5-15-13 @ 11:04 AM
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| montanalll | -- 05-15-2013 @ 8:45 PM |
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Thanks for the thoughts! I did purchase a brand new aluminum radiator and put it into the car. Same over-heating as before. Hope that the problem is in the muffler, I haven't had the time to take it off yet. Looks brand new but it doesn't sound empty when thumped in the center.
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| TomO | -- 05-19-2013 @ 3:25 AM |
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I doubt that your problem is a plugged muffler, but the best check for a plugged exhaust system is a vacuum gauge. The cooling capacity of your radiator and the air flow across the fins are strained at idle. You can put an 18-24 inch fan in front of the car when it is idling in the driveway. If the car runs cool then, your problem is in the radiator or the fan. Aluminum radiators do not cool as well as the copper ones. Your radiator core should have 4 rows of tubes with louvered fins. Your fan needs to be in good condition and have a strong pull of air through the radiator. Tom
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| trjford8 | -- 05-20-2013 @ 6:34 PM |
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When you say it overheats are you going by the temperature gauge? If you are using the temperature gauge they are not known to be very accurate. As others have said, put a meat thermometer( sneak it out of the house if it happens to belong to your wife) and put it in the radiator. This will give you an accurate reading. If this car has sat for a long time it could be a plugged muffler. Mice have a habit of using mufflers and tailpipes for a home.
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| montanalll | -- 05-25-2013 @ 11:27 AM |
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Thanks for the thoughts! Don't really need a thermometer when it is actually boiling. Will try the muffler next and hope.
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