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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Heater pressure test?

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Heater pressure test? -- page: 1 2

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TomO
01-16-2013 @ 7:50 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Don't forget the safety glasses. Even at 4 lbs stop leak plugs hurt when they hit your face.

Tom

jim5618
01-15-2013 @ 9:09 PM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
"I have used a bicycle inner tube cut to size and clamped to the heater inlet and outlets. Use a hand pump to create a little pressure and check it under water. "

I like that idea!

TomO
01-10-2013 @ 7:38 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have used a bicycle inner tube cut to size and clamped to the heater inlet and outlets. Use a hand pump to create a little pressure and check it under water.

You should wear safety glasses when you do this. If someone has uses stop leak in the past to seal a leak, the plug will come out with more velocity than the pressure applied. I like to test them with 8-12lbs pressure, but 4 lbs is sufficient to show any leaks.

Tom

kubes40
01-09-2013 @ 5:20 PM
Senior
Posts: 3396
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I'd like to reiterate (in part) my earlier advise... IF you go to a radiator shop, be certain they do NOT apply in excess of 4psi.

supereal
01-09-2013 @ 10:25 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Heater cores are notorious for having leaks, even today. When antifreeze coolant is used, the smallest pinhole will leak. If you don't have a good radiator shop nearby to check it, you can hook it up to the cooling system to run it and observe for leaks. New cores for old heaters are mostly impossible to find. I'd install some Barr's Leaks, just to be sure.

trjford8
01-09-2013 @ 9:04 AM
Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim, your 32 is a non pressurized system, unless you added the overflow valve from Skip Haney. A radiator shop can pressure test the core for a very small fee.

deuce_roadster
01-09-2013 @ 8:38 AM
Member
Posts: 284
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jim, hope you are kidding there. Most water systems have FAR more pressure then any radiator cap would create and would likely ruin any heater core, new or old. You need to do this in a controlled environment with a gauge and a way to regulate the pressure. (My well pump puts out 60 lbs.)

jim5618
01-09-2013 @ 7:08 AM
New Member
Posts: 137
Joined: Oct 2010
          
OK so since I am on a city water system where we have good water pressure I am just going to plug one end and hose clamp a water hose to the other and turn it on full Blast.

It is a stock 32 4 cylinder which does have a water pump. I don't know if that makes it a "pressurized system" or not

kubes40
01-06-2013 @ 5:50 AM
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Posts: 3396
Joined: Oct 2009
          
1932BBs advice will in fact tell you if there are leaks. And, if you are running a non pressurized system, you'll most likely be fine with that method. What it won't tell you if there are any leaks "lurking". In other words, leaks that won't show up without pressure being applied during the test.
IF you are running a pressurized system, I strongly suggest you pressurize the core to that specification.
The core must withstand the pressure you will be applying to it once installed.
Or, simply check it under water for the possible escape of trapped air, reassemble the heater, install the heater, run the vehicle, and then find the leaks that develop under pressure.

51f1
01-06-2013 @ 4:32 AM
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I like 1932BB's method, however, if you pressure test anything, use water to pressurize it. Never use air. This is because air will compress and if the vessel fails, it will explode possibly causing injury. Liquids, for all practical purposes, do not compress, and, if the vessel fails, there will be no explosion.

Richard

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