| jim5618 | -- 01-05-2013 @ 7:20 AM |
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I have an old heater that I took apart and repainted. I am pretty sure the core is good but did not try it with any pressure. What amount of pressure would these be expected to take without leaking? For several reasons I can't just hook it up to a car and run it to test. Oh it was in my 32 model B but I assume it is a 50's Montgomery Ward
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| kubes40 | -- 01-05-2013 @ 8:05 AM |
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Many of these old heaters were meant to be installed within vehicles having non pressurized systems. For that reason, when testing, anything beyond 4# and you are risking causing problems. Now, here comes the quandary... if you plan on installing this heater in a vehicle that is running a pressurized system you must test it to that pressure. Obviously, once installed, the vehicles (self)operation will "test" the heater each and every time you get to operating temperature. Bottom line? If you are running a non pressurized system, test it to a maximum of 4#. Running a pressurized system? test it to the vehicles specified pressure.
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| 1932BB | -- 01-05-2013 @ 1:32 PM |
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Get some rubber stoppers (corks) and plug the pipes leading to the heater core. Immerse the core in a pan of hot water. No bubbles means no leaks. Safe and simple.
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| 51f1 | -- 01-06-2013 @ 4:32 AM |
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I like 1932BB's method, however, if you pressure test anything, use water to pressurize it. Never use air. This is because air will compress and if the vessel fails, it will explode possibly causing injury. Liquids, for all practical purposes, do not compress, and, if the vessel fails, there will be no explosion. Richard
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| kubes40 | -- 01-06-2013 @ 5:50 AM |
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1932BBs advice will in fact tell you if there are leaks. And, if you are running a non pressurized system, you'll most likely be fine with that method. What it won't tell you if there are any leaks "lurking". In other words, leaks that won't show up without pressure being applied during the test. IF you are running a pressurized system, I strongly suggest you pressurize the core to that specification. The core must withstand the pressure you will be applying to it once installed. Or, simply check it under water for the possible escape of trapped air, reassemble the heater, install the heater, run the vehicle, and then find the leaks that develop under pressure.
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| jim5618 | -- 01-09-2013 @ 7:08 AM |
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OK so since I am on a city water system where we have good water pressure I am just going to plug one end and hose clamp a water hose to the other and turn it on full Blast. It is a stock 32 4 cylinder which does have a water pump. I don't know if that makes it a "pressurized system" or not
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| deuce_roadster | -- 01-09-2013 @ 8:38 AM |
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Jim, hope you are kidding there. Most water systems have FAR more pressure then any radiator cap would create and would likely ruin any heater core, new or old. You need to do this in a controlled environment with a gauge and a way to regulate the pressure. (My well pump puts out 60 lbs.)
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| trjford8 | -- 01-09-2013 @ 9:04 AM |
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Jim, your 32 is a non pressurized system, unless you added the overflow valve from Skip Haney. A radiator shop can pressure test the core for a very small fee.
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| supereal | -- 01-09-2013 @ 10:25 AM |
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Heater cores are notorious for having leaks, even today. When antifreeze coolant is used, the smallest pinhole will leak. If you don't have a good radiator shop nearby to check it, you can hook it up to the cooling system to run it and observe for leaks. New cores for old heaters are mostly impossible to find. I'd install some Barr's Leaks, just to be sure.
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| kubes40 | -- 01-09-2013 @ 5:20 PM |
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I'd like to reiterate (in part) my earlier advise... IF you go to a radiator shop, be certain they do NOT apply in excess of 4psi.
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| TomO | -- 01-10-2013 @ 7:38 AM |
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I have used a bicycle inner tube cut to size and clamped to the heater inlet and outlets. Use a hand pump to create a little pressure and check it under water. You should wear safety glasses when you do this. If someone has uses stop leak in the past to seal a leak, the plug will come out with more velocity than the pressure applied. I like to test them with 8-12lbs pressure, but 4 lbs is sufficient to show any leaks. Tom
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| jim5618 | -- 01-15-2013 @ 9:09 PM |
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"I have used a bicycle inner tube cut to size and clamped to the heater inlet and outlets. Use a hand pump to create a little pressure and check it under water. " I like that idea!
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| TomO | -- 01-16-2013 @ 7:50 AM |
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Don't forget the safety glasses. Even at 4 lbs stop leak plugs hurt when they hit your face. Tom
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