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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 36 ford left ignition on battery died

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Discussion Topic: 36 ford left ignition on battery died -- page: 1 2

joe shell

12-16-2012 @ 2:41 AM

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Thanks for the input. I think I will change the points. Got to learn sooner or later, and I have a new set of points. Only problem is that I never removed a distributor from a 36 Ford before. Back in the fifties I had several 49-51 Fords and it was easy to change the points with simple tools and a feeler gauge. I have some friends from the Long Island RG coming over on Tuesday to help remove the distributor. One of them has done this job before probably on his 36 Cabriolet. He takes the distributor out from the top, but to me it appears easier to drop it down. The car does not have the original coil. It has the three screw adapter plate on top of the distributor and an ordinary coil mounted on the cylinder head.

If anyone has suggestions on the best way to remove this distributor, I would appreciate hearing from you. I guess I should start a new thread regarding coil removal on a 36.

Thanks for comments and suggestions.

This message was edited by joe sh*ll on 12-16-12 @ 6:23 AM

supereal

12-15-2012 @ 8:18 PM

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The usual reason the ignition is left on is either the engine stalled as it was being parked or, more often, a radio was left on. We usually wire radios, etc, directly to a battery source, not thru the switch. It won't prevent leaving these on, but it does protect the coil if the ignition switch is off. If you have an electrically wound clock, it is a good idea to remove the fuse when the car is stored if you don't have a master battery switch.

1934 Ford

12-15-2012 @ 4:49 PM

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Joe,
Search spark plugs for early V8's, lots of talk on this on this Forum.
I understood Champion the UD-16 was the same as the
D-16, but with an extra gap in the electrode. This caused the UD-16 to weaken the spark. (Making the low sparke problem worse) I quit using it and went back to the D-16 and my early V8's ran better.
Then I learned the D-16 was a lawnmower plug and switched to the Autolite 386.
Autolite 386 runs better and lasts lots longer without fouling. Some of the technical guys can tell us why.

joe shell

12-15-2012 @ 12:28 PM

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Thanks to all for your sugestions. Today an old v8 friend suggested checking the plugs. I pulled about 5 plugs and the all looked good to me. They are Champion UD 16. They were a little black around the base of the plug, but the electrodes were a very light gray except for one plug where the electrode was light tan. Could these plugs be causing my hesitation/sputtering problem?

What are the best plugs to run in a 36 LB engine if the car has a radio? Currently the radio plays great with the UD 16 plugs.

supereal

12-13-2012 @ 9:16 AM

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OK, Joe, here it is. The vacuum gauge is a fine diagnostic tool for older engines, those before the advent of the computer controlled variety. It must be connected to "raw" intake vacuum, such as the point where windshield wipers are fed. The later engines, with vacuum only distributors, draw their vacuum from a port above the throttle plate, making it unsuitable for the test. At our shop, we have an array of very complicated (and costly) scanners for the newer vehicles, but the good old vacuum gauge beats them all for old cars and trucks.

joe shell

12-13-2012 @ 7:16 AM

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Thanks Super, please post.

TomO

12-13-2012 @ 7:12 AM

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Joe, it is unlikely that your points are causing a hesitation problem.

Changing the points without setting and checking them on a distributor machine can cause more problems. The points available today seem to have more problems with quality than they did when these cars were newer.

Tension is often very weak, leading to point bounce, shorts between the movable contact and ground have shown up in several sets. The distributor machine will also allow an experienced operator to check for wear in the bushings and binds in the centrifugal advance.

Hesitation could be caused by carburetor problems or advance problem in the distributor.

Tom

joe shell

12-13-2012 @ 6:18 AM

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Thanks Super, please post.

supereal

12-12-2012 @ 8:01 PM

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The best diagnostic tool to cure hesitation is a vacuum gauge. If you don't have a symptom chart, i'll post one.

joe shell

12-12-2012 @ 5:02 PM

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Thanks for the suggestion Tom. I just checked the spark by running a screwdriver from the top of the spark plug to the head. Got a good blueish white spark. Took the car for a ride today and it went 60 mph. I plan on changing the points to see if that helps with the hesitation problem, but not familiar with the 1936 distributor.

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