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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Fuel Line Connections

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Fuel Line Connections

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Bill T
09-11-2012 @ 11:23 AM
Member
Posts: 14
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Long Story, Short Question

I have a problem with my 33 roadster. It stopped while putting it away into it's trailer after being judged at the Branson Central Meet. It would not restart so I tied it down and hauled it home.

Tried spark first: Spark was visable but looked weak at all plugs. Took coil off distributor. Cleaned dirt and debries and put it back together. Spark still visable but looked weak. No start.

Tried fuel: Short squirt of starting ether. Fired up and burned residual ether. Conclusion: Spark works, fuel not. Loosened fuel line at carbruatir connedtion. Turned engine, fuel flowed. Fuel pump works, carbruator possibly plugged with teflon tape from original assembly.

Now to clean it up and put it back together: 33 ford engine, Detroit Lubricator Carb, AC (early 33) fuel pump, compression fittings.

Question: What kind of gasket seal to use on the fuel line connections? I need something! Permatex 1 hard, permatex 2 flexible, other ?

Thanks, Bill Taylor

kubes40
09-11-2012 @ 2:55 PM
Senior
Posts: 3399
Joined: Oct 2009
          
No sealers were ever used on fuel fittings. If you have leaks in those areas - threads may be stripped.

Many guys overlook soldering the compression fitting to the line. There's a reason Ford did so. However, the lack of solder and possible subsequent leak normally would cause a vacuum problem vs. a fuel leak.

ken ct.
09-11-2012 @ 4:22 PM
Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
          
Buy or make a new line.The trouble is in the line not the carb. NO gunk needed on a good fitting line.ken ct.

supereal
09-11-2012 @ 8:52 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Using Terlon tape almost always produces a clogged gas line. Small pieces produced in the tightening of the fittings break off and accumulate in pumps and carbs. Use new fittings, and no sealing is needed. Soldering is a good idea if properly done and no solder fragments are created. The ferrules have to be sweated on the same way plumbing joints are made with very clean metal and some paste flux on the tube before you slide the ferrule in place. Heat until the solder flows into the joint.. If there is any on the outer surface of the ferrule, remove it before installing.

TomO
09-12-2012 @ 9:24 AM
Senior
Posts: 7253
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Ether will start a car with weak spark. Gas may or may not. You need a strong spark when trying to start the car. If you have a rebuilt coil, send it back to be tested.

Before you take everything apart, check to see if gas is discharged into the throat of the carburetor when the accelerator pedal is pushed down. If so, you probably do not have a fuel delivery problem.

I would not use any sealer on the fittings, the ferrules should seal against any leaks on the line from the pump to the carburetor. The line from the tank could leak vacuum if the ferrule is not soldered, and this would show up as a failure to prime the fuel pump.

If you are leaking fuel at the carburetor fitting and have not cross threaded the fitting, you may have to find a different carburetor top, or have the current one repaired.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 9-12-12 @ 9:26 AM

Bill T
09-14-2012 @ 7:36 AM
Member
Posts: 14
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Thanks guys, it's fixed.

The problem seemed to be the teflon tape in the fuel system. I knew better than that!

I soldered the ferruls to fuel line then carefully filed them smooth. No leaks or seaps.

I also disassembled the Detroit Lubricator Carbruator,cleaned all passageways, then reassembled as it came apart (not much to it).

Gave it a shot of starting fluid and cranked it, it filled the bowl, and started right up. I'm a beliver. Thanks again. Bill Taylor



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