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Discussion Topic:
'36 valves adjusted incorrectly?
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Flatbob |
09-04-2012 @ 3:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
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I've been reading everything I could find on flatheads since '95 and this is the first time I've seen this chart! Thanks, really appreciate it.
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Brendan |
09-03-2012 @ 7:44 PM
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Member
Posts: 46
Joined: May 2011
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when i adjusted the valves in my 36 pickup, i took off the hood, intake and pulled the distributer. then i just did one hole at a time 1 through 8. also i pulled the plugs to role over the motor easier, and to get it on top dead canter and make shire that the valves are closed. good luck, Brendan
Can't spell my way out of a paper bag!
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TomO |
09-03-2012 @ 9:28 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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That is the same chart that I use. The "x" refers to exhaust valve, the "n" refers to intake valves. You can see the intakes open in the ports to verify that you have the correct sequence. Remember that every change you make from stock will affect another part of the car and not always in the best manner.
Tom
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flatheadfan |
09-03-2012 @ 12:16 AM
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Member
Posts: 450
Joined: Oct 2009
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Fatbob- This is the sequence I use: When you pull of the intake you will find one of the combinations listed on the left. If you find an “a” set opened you use all of the “a” sequencing. If it is a “b” use all the “b” sequencing and so-forth. sequencing. Hope this helps. Tom Valves Opened - Adjust these a) 4X – 1N 3X- 3N- 8N- 6N- 7X- 2X b) 8X – 5N 1X- 7N- 6N- 7X- 3N- 2X c) 6X – 4N 5X- 2N- 1X- 7N- 3N- 2X a) 3X – 8N 1X- 7N- 5X- 2N- 4X- 1N b) 6N – 7X 5X- 2N- 4X- 1N- 8X- 5N c) 3N – 2X 4X- 1N- 8X- 5N- 6X- 4N a) 1X – 7N 8X- 5N- 6X- 4N b) 5X – 2N 6X- 4N- 3X- 8N c) 4X – 1N 3X- 8N- 6N- 7X
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Flatbob |
09-01-2012 @ 3:02 PM
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Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
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TomO, I would really like to see the chart you're referring to for setting the valves. I know experienced flathead guys can adjust the valves without removing the heads (finger over the spark plug hole, wire tie etc.) but I need to actually see TDC & both valves on the seats. Am going to make improvements to suspension, brakes steering and motivation while maintaining stock appearance. I'm just not satisfied with the way the car performs. Every improvement will use Ford components.As for the compression, if all cylinders were around the same compression I wouldn't be so concerned, but they very from 65-90lbs.
This message was edited by Flatbob on 9-1-12 @ 3:05 PM
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TomO |
09-01-2012 @ 9:30 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bob, The rings on the engine have not had a chance to seat, so your compression will not be at its max yet. You can adjust the valves by just removing the intake. If you need a chart to determine which valves are on the heel of the cam, so you can adjust multiple valves without turning the engine, I can post one for you. What issues made you decide to put a later flathead in your 36? Are you sure that you are not asking for more problems by installing the later engine?
Tom
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42merc |
08-31-2012 @ 12:41 PM
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New Member
Posts: 126
Joined: Dec 2010
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Why are you pulling the heads to adjust the valves?
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Flatbob |
08-31-2012 @ 10:49 AM
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Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
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Was hoping you would say that.
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supereal |
08-31-2012 @ 10:06 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If it is a good grade of gasket, with that short use, I'd give it a coat of Permatex copper spray and put it back on.
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Flatbob |
08-31-2012 @ 8:14 AM
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Member
Posts: 437
Joined: Oct 2009
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The '36 engine is coming out and am replacing it with an 8EAB. I'll put the '36 engine on a stand and remove the heads and make sure I have the valves adjusted correctly. Once I pull the heads will I have to replace the head gaskets; the engine has a little over 300 miles on it. I'll be putting the engine up for sale once I get it sorted out.
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