Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
1946 Clock
-- page:
1
2
|
|
Steves46 |
05-16-2012 @ 3:57 PM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Yes, it appears that most of the parts houses carry leftover NOS breakers that average around $25. It's strange how the center terminal went out yet my clock and parking lights that are connected to the right and left terminals are still functioning. Well hopefully once I get the new one installed, that will resolve the problem.
|
supereal |
05-16-2012 @ 3:51 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The stock "circuit breaker" is actually a kind of buzzer that was designed to permit the headlights to function, even if there was a short in the wiring. You may have such a short that finally killed the circuit breaker. I wasn't even aware that replacements are available, as most of us have replaced them with fuses or modern breakers long ago. Old cars didn't bother to fuse most, if not all, circuits, and wiring fires were not rare. We routinely separate all circuits and feed them thru a modern breaker for each one.
|
Steves46 |
05-16-2012 @ 2:47 PM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Found the problem-I need a new circuit breaker. When I got home from work, I placed a test light on each terminal and the center one (for the headlights) did not light however when I used a jump wire to a good terminal, presto-I have headlights. Looks like I'll order one tomorrow from Joblots.
|
Steves46 |
05-16-2012 @ 9:12 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Amen to that. In fact, I did away with the bullets and went with flat spade connectors and wow, what a difference that made!
|
supereal |
05-16-2012 @ 8:35 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
As noted above, the dimmer switch is a regular offender, being mounted below the floorboards where road gunk can reach it. Another weak spot in the lighting circuit are the "bullet connectors" found throughout Ford vehicles. They make the original assembly of the car easier, but over time they lose contact. We solder them, and use heat shrink tubing as a cover. The lighting circuit under the hood along the inside of the laft front fender should be carefully checked. At 6 volts, even slight losses in these connectors can add up to dim or inoperable lights.
|
Steves46 |
05-16-2012 @ 7:00 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Thanks Tom. In fact I neglected to check and see if the tail lights were working with the switch pulled all the way out. Besides double checking that, I think the first test I will do is check for current going to the dimmer switch.
|
TomO |
05-16-2012 @ 6:38 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The dimmer switch is prone to failure, because it is not used much. You can disassemble it and clean it and lube it with a none hardening grease such as Vaseline or corrosion inhibiting grease, or just try operating it about 20 times. To test the circuit breaker, just jumper across the connecting points. The headlight circuit appears to be the yellow/ red wire. The parking lights and interior lights all go through the same set of points in the circuit breaker. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 5-16-12 @ 6:52 AM
|
Steves46 |
05-16-2012 @ 4:19 AM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Update.....the clock is now working better than ever and I didn't touch a thing however now my front headlights seem to only work when they feel like it-the parking lights work fine and there are no symptoms of short circuits. Although I know there may be other possible causes, I have a feeling the circuit breaker may become weak or intermittent. Are these known to get weak over time? When I get home this evening I will be certainly conducting other tests such as power at the switch and dimmer switch. To test the circuit breaker, is it just a matter of placing the volt meter or test light on the connection point? If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, it appears the center connection is for the headlights. Hopefully I will be able to determine the source of the problem.
|
Steves46 |
05-11-2012 @ 12:01 PM
|
|
|
New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Hi John. On the back of mine there are 3 scews; 1 in the upper corner for clock speed and 2 on a slightly raised box. If I don't see the points after removing the screws, I will close and send it off. I don't want to go exploring in unfamiliar territory.
|
oldford2 |
05-11-2012 @ 9:32 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 275
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Steve, When we first got our 46 the clock did not work. I read about cleaning the points so thought I would give it a try. However, when I took the clock out to take it apart I found that the back had tabs instead of screws. I did not want to unbend them to take it apart so I sent it out to a car clock person (?). Has worked great now for 7 years. John
|