Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / motor oil

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: motor oil -- page: 1 2

jethro48

04-21-2012 @ 6:18 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 13
Joined: May 2011

I was reading through my v8 times and came across an advertisement for "Classic Car Motor Oil". I know my oil seems very thin after very little running time, and my oil pressure drops off compared to new oil. I typically use 20-50. I would be willing to pay the extra cost for the oil if it really is superior. Any comments or recomendations would be appreciated.

04-21-2012 @ 7:23 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009

@jethro48,

Stick with a quality brand 20w50w such as Castrol and you'll be fine. Our flatheads do fine without the ZDDP additive. The system of oil pressure in our old flatheads really could not be considered an oil pressurized system as in today's cars.

Old Henry

04-21-2012 @ 8:34 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 738
Joined: Apr 2010

I agree with MG, although I don't use the exact weight oil he recommended. There is no need to pay any extra for motor oil for flatheads. Pretty much anything will do. Our oil pumps are to provide flow more than pressure. Pretty much any pressure indicates flow which is all you really need. My new 80 lb. pump starts out at 30-40 when cold, then down to 20-30 on the highway when warmed up but down to 10-15 at idle. That's using straight 40 weight oil. All oil pressure stories I've ever heard from flathead owners are about the same.

Old Henry
(The older I get, the better old looks.)

This message was edited by Old Henry on 4-21-12 @ 8:36 PM

51f1

04-22-2012 @ 5:46 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009

The quality of the oil available when your flathead was new is not close to the quality of the oil available today. Don't pay extra for oil. Practically any modern oil will do. The consistency (viscosity) of your oil changes with temperature, not age, so its age should not affect your oil pressure. 20W-50 is probably as good as any for an old engine with lower oil pressure. It's equivalent to 20W when it's cold and 50 when it's hot.

Richard

jethro48

04-22-2012 @ 12:07 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 13
Joined: May 2011

Thanks for your input, I was thinking along those lines, just wanted to make sure I was doing what was best. I have been a Valvoline guy for years, so I will stick with what works, Thanks again.
Jeff

supereal

04-23-2012 @ 10:25 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009

Those new to the old Ford hobby have obscessed over the years regarding low oil pressure. The primary reason oil pressure drops when the engine is hot is due to the thinning of the oil, as mentioned above, and the wide bearing clearances in flatheads. Some early engines, such as the Chevy, used troughs and scoops to lube the rods, instead of pressure. As long as there is sufficient oil in the pan, and circulation is maintained, you will be OK. Not so with modern engines with their very close tolerances and high valve system pressures that need ZDDP and other substances to resist wear. The quality of today's oil, regardless of brand, is light years ahead of the oil available when these vehicles were manufactured. Just drive and enjoy the ride!

Hal

04-24-2012 @ 8:49 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 99
Joined: Oct 2009

supereal
What does ZDDP mean?
joe

Old Henry

04-24-2012 @ 9:44 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 738
Joined: Apr 2010

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates. Read more here: http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief1%20-%20Introducing%20ZDDPlus.pdf

But caution: That information is provided by a company that sells ZDDP so is promoting the use of it. After I started using it I read a scientific article from actual testing of metal surface wear affected by ZDDP at various pressures that concluded that, with the low valve spring pressures of our flathead engines, there was no need for any higher concentration of ZDDP in oils than what was still in modern oils.

I'm looking for that article that was very credible and informative to share. If I find it I'll add a link to it.

However, even though I don't think that ZDDP needs to be supplemented for our engines, I do it anyway just in case it may help in some way. Probably overkill but I tend to "err on the side of caution."

If you want to use it you can get it cheaper than ZDDPlus sells it here: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-zddp-oil-additive-4-oz.html

Old Henry
(The older I get, the better old looks.)

This message was edited by Old Henry on 4-24-12 @ 10:36 PM

supereal

04-24-2012 @ 3:05 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009

Joe: It is a zinc compound. It is required for metal to metal contact under high pressure, such as non-roller valve lifters. The reason it was reduced in motor oil formulation was because it tends to foul the catalytic converters. Our old flaheads lasted decades witn oil that is vastly inferior to the current formulas. We have seen the "fast buck" boys jump on lots of changes. They predicted valve problems with unleaded gas, and flacked lead additives. At our shop, we do all kinds of valve work, and have yet to see the dire consequences of the lack of lead. Most additives are designed to grease your wallet.

slyck14

04-27-2012 @ 10:02 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Dec 2011

OK, now I would like to chase this discussion just a little further...I have a blown Motor City flathead with solid lifters. The former owner insisted on the Zinc additive due to the solids. More smoke and mirrors or a good idea? Thanks in advance.

Joe Syslo
Fort Worth, Texas
1946 Ford Business Coupe

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions