Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
motor oil
-- page:
1
2
|
|
jethro48 |
04-21-2012 @ 6:18 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 13
Joined: May 2011
|
I was reading through my v8 times and came across an advertisement for "Classic Car Motor Oil". I know my oil seems very thin after very little running time, and my oil pressure drops off compared to new oil. I typically use 20-50. I would be willing to pay the extra cost for the oil if it really is superior. Any comments or recomendations would be appreciated.
|
MG |
04-21-2012 @ 7:23 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
|
@jethro48, Stick with a quality brand 20w50w such as Castrol and you'll be fine. Our flatheads do fine without the ZDDP additive. The system of oil pressure in our old flatheads really could not be considered an oil pressurized system as in today's cars.
|
Old Henry |
04-21-2012 @ 8:34 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 738
Joined: Apr 2010
|
I agree with MG, although I don't use the exact weight oil he recommended. There is no need to pay any extra for motor oil for flatheads. Pretty much anything will do. Our oil pumps are to provide flow more than pressure. Pretty much any pressure indicates flow which is all you really need. My new 80 lb. pump starts out at 30-40 when cold, then down to 20-30 on the highway when warmed up but down to 10-15 at idle. That's using straight 40 weight oil. All oil pressure stories I've ever heard from flathead owners are about the same. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
This message was edited by Old Henry on 4-21-12 @ 8:36 PM
|
51f1 |
04-22-2012 @ 5:46 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The quality of the oil available when your flathead was new is not close to the quality of the oil available today. Don't pay extra for oil. Practically any modern oil will do. The consistency (viscosity) of your oil changes with temperature, not age, so its age should not affect your oil pressure. 20W-50 is probably as good as any for an old engine with lower oil pressure. It's equivalent to 20W when it's cold and 50 when it's hot.
Richard
|
jethro48 |
04-22-2012 @ 12:07 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 13
Joined: May 2011
|
Thanks for your input, I was thinking along those lines, just wanted to make sure I was doing what was best. I have been a Valvoline guy for years, so I will stick with what works, Thanks again. Jeff
|
supereal |
04-23-2012 @ 10:25 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Those new to the old Ford hobby have obscessed over the years regarding low oil pressure. The primary reason oil pressure drops when the engine is hot is due to the thinning of the oil, as mentioned above, and the wide bearing clearances in flatheads. Some early engines, such as the Chevy, used troughs and scoops to lube the rods, instead of pressure. As long as there is sufficient oil in the pan, and circulation is maintained, you will be OK. Not so with modern engines with their very close tolerances and high valve system pressures that need ZDDP and other substances to resist wear. The quality of today's oil, regardless of brand, is light years ahead of the oil available when these vehicles were manufactured. Just drive and enjoy the ride!
|
Hal |
04-24-2012 @ 8:49 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 99
Joined: Oct 2009
|
supereal What does ZDDP mean? joe
|
Old Henry |
04-24-2012 @ 9:44 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 738
Joined: Apr 2010
|
Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates. Read more here: http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief1%20-%20Introducing%20ZDDPlus.pdf But caution: That information is provided by a company that sells ZDDP so is promoting the use of it. After I started using it I read a scientific article from actual testing of metal surface wear affected by ZDDP at various pressures that concluded that, with the low valve spring pressures of our flathead engines, there was no need for any higher concentration of ZDDP in oils than what was still in modern oils. I'm looking for that article that was very credible and informative to share. If I find it I'll add a link to it. However, even though I don't think that ZDDP needs to be supplemented for our engines, I do it anyway just in case it may help in some way. Probably overkill but I tend to "err on the side of caution." If you want to use it you can get it cheaper than ZDDPlus sells it here: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-zddp-oil-additive-4-oz.html Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.)
This message was edited by Old Henry on 4-24-12 @ 10:36 PM
|
supereal |
04-24-2012 @ 3:05 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Joe: It is a zinc compound. It is required for metal to metal contact under high pressure, such as non-roller valve lifters. The reason it was reduced in motor oil formulation was because it tends to foul the catalytic converters. Our old flaheads lasted decades witn oil that is vastly inferior to the current formulas. We have seen the "fast buck" boys jump on lots of changes. They predicted valve problems with unleaded gas, and flacked lead additives. At our shop, we do all kinds of valve work, and have yet to see the dire consequences of the lack of lead. Most additives are designed to grease your wallet.
|
slyck14 |
04-27-2012 @ 10:02 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Dec 2011
|
OK, now I would like to chase this discussion just a little further...I have a blown Motor City flathead with solid lifters. The former owner insisted on the Zinc additive due to the solids. More smoke and mirrors or a good idea? Thanks in advance.
Joe Syslo Fort Worth, Texas 1946 Ford Business Coupe
|