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Discussion Topic:
Master cylinder rebuild for 1940
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TomO |
01-18-2013 @ 8:08 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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I agree that a quality new or re-manufactured brake cylinder is a better choice than rebuilding the ones on the car. The master cylinder and wheel cylinders are available at most parts houses on a special order basis. In the Chicago area, you can have one the next day.
Tom
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woodiewagon46 |
01-17-2013 @ 10:36 AM
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Senior
Posts: 698
Joined: Nov 2012
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Maybe it's just me but I do not like fooling around with my brakes, especially on a single reservoir master cylinder. Unlike modern systems, if you loose your bore seal, you don't have another cylinder side to stop the car. New master cylinders are available from Joblot Automotive for $69.95, part no 91A-2140. It's just not worth the trouble you are going thru.
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TomO |
01-17-2013 @ 8:46 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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John, I just clicked on the link and it took me there, so the site is still active. You can click on http://norgv8club.org/norg/ and then all document index, then Parts diagrams, then Green book
Tom
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jiw1 |
01-16-2013 @ 1:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Feb 2010
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hi tom,i was reading on the topic of the master cylinder which i intend to do soon.i went to the link you mentioned several times and came up whith oopps.unable to find it.i typed in exactly the way you have it and nothing comes up.am i doing something wrong?thank you,john
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TomO |
04-07-2012 @ 7:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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To answer your question, the the thick washer with the hex hole is needed. It is part of P/N 2169 assembly. It is installed just like you found it. Measure your MC bore after honing. It should not be more than 1.0675. If it is, your MC will fail with complete loss of foot brakes. This may happen right after assembly or in our lightly used cars, a couple of years later. It will come at an unexpected time. Here is a link to the breakdown of the master cylinder. http://norgv8club.org/norg/index.php/headliner-newsletters-and-tech-tips/category/11-parts-diagrams Download section one of the green book and go to page 42 of the PDF file.
Tom
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40 Coupe |
04-07-2012 @ 7:32 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
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Diagram of Ford Master Cylinder attached.
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40 Coupe |
04-07-2012 @ 7:15 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you install the rubber washer between the stop washer 2188 and the 2170 secondary cup, the piston 2172 will not return to it's proper position and uncover the small hole in the cylinder body allowing fluid to return to the cylinder after the brake pedal is released. If you do not install it (keep it handy)if it takes a lot of pedal travel to get the brakes to actuate on the first depressing of the pedal, then take it apart and install it. The 2178 valve if working properly, allows the fluid back into the cylinder but allows about 2# of pressure to remain in the lines, when it does not work properly usually the line pressure drops to zero. the original 2178 valve had a seat built into the valve but the replacement is just a one way valve without the seat.
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patriot |
04-06-2012 @ 11:58 AM
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Member
Posts: 2
Joined: Apr 2010
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Mr. 40 coupe: I just want to make 100% sure about the thick rubber washer with the hex hole. Mine was at the other end just inside the thick metal stop washer. None of the diagrams I have show a thick rubber washer with a hex hole - despite the fact they are in kits sold today. The brass ring is apparently very difficult to find and may not be necessary as you indicate. But I'm thinking the thick rubber washer is also not necessary. The pic is from a different forum and is not a kit I currently have. Thanks for your help. Bob in Texas
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supereal |
04-06-2012 @ 9:54 AM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Right, Tom. That's why we don't hone them. We did do it back in the 40's and early 50's because new parts were still scarce. We used a three stone hone, and followed with a fine polish tool, things most hobbyists wouldn't have, or want to buy.
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TomO |
04-06-2012 @ 9:21 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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I agree with Supereal. One point he failed to make is that if you hone all of the pits out, your cylinder may be too big to seal properly with stock parts. Good quality master and wheel cylinders are made by Wagner, Raybestos and Dorman. They can be purchased at your local parts house. The Raybestos master cylinder P/N is MC 1050 Front left wheel cylinder is WC8264 Front right WC8265 Rear Left WC8266 Rear Right WC8267 Your parts man can cross reference those number to one of the other manufacturers. Bench bleed the master cylinder before installing to make sure that it will hold pressure.
Tom
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