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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1937 Ford Survivor -- page: 1 2 3     TonyM 02-19-2012 @ 6:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 458 Joined: Sep 2010 I recently purchased this 1937 Ford DeLuxe Fordor. The car was purchased new at Wright Motors, Evanston, Illinois. The car was traded-in in 1939 and was subsequently purchased by the second owner in December 1939. He drove it until 1959 when it was put in storage. The car was purchased by the third owner in April of 1990. The car was driven around a company yard for a short time before entering storage again. The car was brought out of storage and prepared for sale in late 2010. The seller almost completed a deal last year but pulled the plug when he found out the buyer was going to customize the car and sell off original pieces. He sold it to me, fully confident that the car would remain unmolested and appreciated as the survivor that it is. The car is an early production model with early type fuel tank filler neck, no radiator see-through shield and 12-36 glass. I plan on getting the car running and safe to operate. Tony M. This message was edited by TonyM on 2-13-13 @ 3:54 PM Stroker 02-19-2012 @ 6:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Tony: That's not just a "survivor", but might well be a great candidate for the Rouge Class at National Meets. It sounds like you have found a real jewel. "The're only original once". TonyM 02-19-2012 @ 6:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 458 Joined: Sep 2010 Thanks Stroker. I have thought about the Rouge Attempt. I hope that the car won't need so much just to get it running and safe to operate that it would be considered a partial restoration. We'll see where we end up. I am very appreciative of the original condition and hope to keep it like that for a while. TM alanwoodieman 02-19-2012 @ 7:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 Please consider keeping the car in its original state. Making it drivable is very appreciated. That's what having these old Fords is about. It is a piece of history and for future generations should be kept as it is. In the very least extensive documentation, pictures, and even inspection by knowledgeable Ford people. Anyone wanting to restore a 37 would like to have a look at a very close to original car. trjford8 02-19-2012 @ 8:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4214 Joined: Oct 2009 Make it driveable, but leave as much original as you can. Cars in this condition are very hard to find and they are a gold mine of information for the restorer. TonyM 02-19-2012 @ 8:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 458 Joined: Sep 2010 Thanks all. I am an historian and certainly do appreciate the "Time Capsule" quality that the car has. I will be keeping it as original as possible for as long as possible. I am looking forward to getting the car to run and safe to operate. TM ford38v8 02-19-2012 @ 8:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 Tony, I know that you are a very knowledgable '37 owner, and that you are as capable as anyone to determine the originality of the details on your car, and it's chances of gaining the Rouge award. What you must also know, whether or not your car is eligible for the award, it is, as you say, a survivor, and as such, it is a shrine to be worshipped, as witness the favorable comments you've had and will continue to hear for as long as you keep it in original condition. A restored car, on the other hand, is a restored car. Alan TonyM 02-20-2012 @ 6:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 458 Joined: Sep 2010 Alan, Thanks for your confidence in my ability. I am sure I'm going to need plenty of help from the very smart people on this forum. That is why I joined EFV-8 C/A. I'm looking forward to and appreciate all the advice and help that my fellow members can give me. More details about the car: The Car has 12-36 Glass; Engine block was produced in December 1936; Appears to have the early type Brake Cross Shaft Assembly with two holes (78-2458A); Car has early type fuel tank filler neck; There are no 78-6050 Aluminum Heads--the left head appears to be the 77-6050A Cast Iron type head with small Ford Script and no number--the right head has no Ford script and the firing pattern cast into the head. The car has sealed beams which need to be converted back to the 1937 type headlights. Front floor mat is non original. There is evidence of repaint on the fenders. There are wide, flat runs in the paint on the front fenders a little bit. Is this because the fenders were dipped as opposed to sprayed? Or just a poor repaint? The body itself seems to be original paint with many parts of the Tacoma Cream stripe still very visible. Same with the hood side panels--Tacoma Cream stripe still very visible. The car is a little rougher than the photos indicate but it is still a very solid car with very little surface rust and absolutely no rust-through holes anywhere I looked. Any advice about turning knobs and levers that have not been excersized in many years? I am very afraid of breaking or damaging stuff and I would like to avoid that if I can. Thanks to all who helped me, especially Jim Brown (RG69 Pres). TonyM. This message was edited by TonyM on 2-20-12 @ 7:11 PM ford38v8 02-20-2012 @ 9:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 Tony, I would guess that the paint runs you found would be as a result of a repaint, as Ford had perfected the dip process long before your car was produced. That's my guess from your description, however, even if a repaint, they are part of the provenance of the car, and should be preseved in that condition. The knobs are extremely delicate after these many years. They will crumble in your fingers if put to original use. I would suggest that you free up any stuck devices from under the dash as opposed to the front of the dash. Rubber grommets will be hard as rock also, and will shred before becoming pliable. Replacement knobs and grommets of course would be stand-out eyesores, and out of the question in my opinion. Your radio knobs may be more durable, but still, I'd suggest going easy on them, although it would be great to discover if the radio is operable. Internal radio tubes and vibrators are still available, by the way. Your windshield crankout can certainly be made to work smoothly with proper lubrication, however, doing so will exert stress on the glass, the frame, and the rubber seals, so I'd suggest doing without that ventilation source. The cowl vent is sturdy, and should operate smoothly with a bit of oil on the mechanism, but take care to free up the rubber seal gradually with a small probe. Door and window cranks shouldn't be a problem, but again, avoid the plastic knobs themselves. Your fan and your South Wind are also items of important provenance, the lack of which would show badly for the marks of removal. The floormat, even if determined to be a replacement, is now irreplaceable in my opinion. You are simultaniously in an enviable position and between two ambitions with such a car. Many would love to have your decisions to ponder. Alan MG 02-21-2012 @ 10:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1254 Joined: Nov 2009 Tony, Given the number of knobs on the dash, it appears the car may have a Columbia Two Speed Overdrive rear end in it - specifically, the knob closest to the glove box. This is another big plus for your car. As others have stated here, it would be a sin to restore this car. Just make it mechanically safe and sound as possible. You're a lucky guy......MG This message was edited by MG on 2-21-12 @ 11:33 AM

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