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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / POSSIBLE CRACKED BLOCK!!!!

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Posted By Discussion Topic: POSSIBLE CRACKED BLOCK!!!! -- page: 1 2     Texas40 04-20-2012 @ 8:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 66 Joined: Oct 2009 Just an FYI--There is a tool you can buy from NAPA that indicates combustion gases in the radiator coolant. It involves putting the tester tube in the radiator filler with an indicator liquid and if the tube liquid turns color that indicates exhaust gases in the coolant. You can then clear the tester, remove all the plugs from one bank and start the car (it will run on one bank only) and run the test again--if the liquid turns color you have identified the side with the problem. If it doesn't turn color, the problem is the other side. lightflyer1 04-17-2012 @ 5:02 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Oct 2009 http://www.locknstitch.com/metal_stitching.htm cresty 04-17-2012 @ 3:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 32 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi Tom "O"-- Thanks for answering!--But would you mind telling me what stiching is???? supereal 03-20-2012 @ 8:38 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The common place to discover block cracks is in the area between the cylinder and the valve pocket. These can often be repaired by drilling thru the cracked area and inserting threaded pins. The block must then be "decked". This restores the gasket surface and removes any excess material left by the pins. Cracks that extend down the cylinder can be sleeved, but may not be successful if the crack extends into the bottom of the block. I wouldn't waste time and money trying to close a crack with a punch. At our shop, we magnaflux all blocks after boiling them. A first class rebuild will run into thousands of dollars, so you need to be sure you start with a sound block. They are getting scarce and expensive, but caution is necessary in diagnosing and examining before proceeding. This message was edited by supereal on 3-20-12 @ 8:41 PM 1883warren 03-20-2012 @ 6:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2009 I've stopped small cracks by using a very hard sharp punch & hammer. Punch all 'round the crack, staying away from the crack about 1/16th inch, punch marks very close together. This helps close the crack. Water leaks are usually head gaskets. Have your heads trued, then new gaskets. Be SURE to run a die on all threads of your studs. Run a tap thru' each nut. Bad threads can cause incomplete torque pressure. New nuts are a good idea also. Follow book torque sequence as shown. ALWAYS run WATER first in a new or rebuilt engine, with Barr's Leak. This will help seal up your motor. Once proven, then you can use anti-freeze if wanted, but always include the Barr's Leak... always. cresty 03-20-2012 @ 5:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 32 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi-- Excuss my not knowning,--but, what is stiching??? Thanks Loads!!! "Cresty" cresty 02-17-2012 @ 2:07 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 32 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks Guys---- Your Great!!! Some of the things I did think of ,but I wanted to verify them with you "Experienced Experts"! You Also gave me a lot of Good Ideas to try and look into!!! Thanks So Much For Your Time! "cresty" TomO 02-15-2012 @ 8:41 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7274 Joined: Oct 2009 Cresty, there are no tools that can check for all of the conditions that could cause water in the oil pan without disassembling the engine. How cold did it get? If your antifreeze mixture was 30% it would have turned to slush at 10 degrees F. Colder temperatures and less antifreeze could cause the antifreeze solution to harden and expand. Water in the pan could also come from a blown head gasket. Before disassembling the engine, I would try a radiator pressure text and look for leaks. If no external leaks are detected, I would perform a cylinder leak down test. This will let you know if the leak is in the upper cylinder area and which head to remove to check for the leak. Most small cracks can be repaired by stitching the crack, but you should have the block magnafluxed to find cracks that are not readily visible. This will require complete dis-assembly of the engine. Tom supereal 02-15-2012 @ 8:04 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Some time ago, an engine was sent to our shop because it had spun a rod bearing due to contaminated oil. Upon disassembly, we found that an improperly sleeved cylinder had sprung a leak along the bottom. Due to the original scoring that had prompted the repair, we elected to not try to resleeve it. It didn't make the owner happy, but we couldn't guarantee the new sleeve would hold, either. Due to increasing scarcity, many flatheads receive repairs that are risky, often to allow a quick sale. trjford8 02-15-2012 @ 7:02 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4242 Joined: Oct 2009 Years ago a friend had a 50 convert with a rebuilt motor. Soon after the car was together he found water in the oil. Turns out that a pin hole (from rust) had developed in the lower part of a cylinder and was leaking water into the pan. In this case he was able to sleeve the motor and save it.

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