| cresty | -- 02-12-2012 @ 12:41 PM |
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HELLO EVERYONE--- I MAY HAVE A CRACKED BLOCK IN MY '51 FORD V8 FLATHEAD,---I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS ANYTHING THAT I CAN DO TO FIND OUT WHERE THE CRACK IS,---ANYTHING I CAN PUT INTO THE ENGINE TO SEE WITH A LASER OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT WHERE THE WATER IS COMING FROM,----LIKE THEY DO IN THE FIELD OF MEDICINE.THEY CAN TRACE ABOUT ANYTHING IN THE HUMAN BODY!!!T THANKS PEOPLE--I WILL WELCOME YOUR IMPUT!! CRESTY
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| flathead4rd | -- 02-12-2012 @ 4:24 PM |
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Most leaks come from head gaskets. Where is the water collecting? Front or rear of the engine, out the tail pipe, in the oil. More info needed. Did something happen that makes you think the block is cracked, like over heated or frozen? Let us know.
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| cresty | -- 02-14-2012 @ 4:08 PM |
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Thanks for answering!---I think it is from running it on too little anti-freeze! I had a water pump leak and the weather was getting cold,---I found water in the oil pan! would appreciate any info you can give me!!!Would like to SAVE THE ENGINE!!!--The car is an Original! Thanks,"Cresty"
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| supereal | -- 02-14-2012 @ 7:32 PM |
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Block cracks, more often than not, result from an engine getting too hot or too cold. If your temperature got below freezing for an extended period, it could have frozen. Otherwise, the water in the oil pan probably is from another cause. Most freeze cracks happen on the inside of the block just over the oil pan flange area. This message was edited by supereal on 2-14-12 @ 7:34 PM
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| 51f1 | -- 02-14-2012 @ 11:49 PM |
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I found water in my oil that came from what I believe was a freeze crack in an 8RT engine (same as 8BA) that came in a truck that I bought. It was on the right side in the flange where the oil pan mounts about half way between the front and rear. I ground out the crack and filled it with a little JB Weld. It worked until I restored the truck and replaced the engine. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 2-17-12 @ 2:19 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 02-15-2012 @ 7:02 AM |
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Years ago a friend had a 50 convert with a rebuilt motor. Soon after the car was together he found water in the oil. Turns out that a pin hole (from rust) had developed in the lower part of a cylinder and was leaking water into the pan. In this case he was able to sleeve the motor and save it.
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| supereal | -- 02-15-2012 @ 8:04 AM |
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Some time ago, an engine was sent to our shop because it had spun a rod bearing due to contaminated oil. Upon disassembly, we found that an improperly sleeved cylinder had sprung a leak along the bottom. Due to the original scoring that had prompted the repair, we elected to not try to resleeve it. It didn't make the owner happy, but we couldn't guarantee the new sleeve would hold, either. Due to increasing scarcity, many flatheads receive repairs that are risky, often to allow a quick sale.
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| TomO | -- 02-15-2012 @ 8:41 AM |
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Cresty, there are no tools that can check for all of the conditions that could cause water in the oil pan without disassembling the engine. How cold did it get? If your antifreeze mixture was 30% it would have turned to slush at 10 degrees F. Colder temperatures and less antifreeze could cause the antifreeze solution to harden and expand. Water in the pan could also come from a blown head gasket. Before disassembling the engine, I would try a radiator pressure text and look for leaks. If no external leaks are detected, I would perform a cylinder leak down test. This will let you know if the leak is in the upper cylinder area and which head to remove to check for the leak. Most small cracks can be repaired by stitching the crack, but you should have the block magnafluxed to find cracks that are not readily visible. This will require complete dis-assembly of the engine. Tom
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| cresty | -- 02-17-2012 @ 2:07 PM |
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Thanks Guys---- Your Great!!! Some of the things I did think of ,but I wanted to verify them with you "Experienced Experts"! You Also gave me a lot of Good Ideas to try and look into!!! Thanks So Much For Your Time! "cresty"
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| cresty | -- 03-20-2012 @ 5:43 PM |
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Hi-- Excuss my not knowning,--but, what is stiching??? Thanks Loads!!! "Cresty"
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| 1883warren | -- 03-20-2012 @ 6:42 PM |
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I've stopped small cracks by using a very hard sharp punch & hammer. Punch all 'round the crack, staying away from the crack about 1/16th inch, punch marks very close together. This helps close the crack. Water leaks are usually head gaskets. Have your heads trued, then new gaskets. Be SURE to run a die on all threads of your studs. Run a tap thru' each nut. Bad threads can cause incomplete torque pressure. New nuts are a good idea also. Follow book torque sequence as shown. ALWAYS run WATER first in a new or rebuilt engine, with Barr's Leak. This will help seal up your motor. Once proven, then you can use anti-freeze if wanted, but always include the Barr's Leak... always.
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| supereal | -- 03-20-2012 @ 8:38 PM |
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The common place to discover block cracks is in the area between the cylinder and the valve pocket. These can often be repaired by drilling thru the cracked area and inserting threaded pins. The block must then be "decked". This restores the gasket surface and removes any excess material left by the pins. Cracks that extend down the cylinder can be sleeved, but may not be successful if the crack extends into the bottom of the block. I wouldn't waste time and money trying to close a crack with a punch. At our shop, we magnaflux all blocks after boiling them. A first class rebuild will run into thousands of dollars, so you need to be sure you start with a sound block. They are getting scarce and expensive, but caution is necessary in diagnosing and examining before proceeding. This message was edited by supereal on 3-20-12 @ 8:41 PM
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| cresty | -- 04-17-2012 @ 3:41 PM |
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Hi Tom "O"-- Thanks for answering!--But would you mind telling me what stiching is????
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| lightflyer1 | -- 04-17-2012 @ 5:02 PM |
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http://www.locknstitch.com/metal_stitching.htm
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| Texas40 | -- 04-20-2012 @ 8:13 AM |
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Just an FYI--There is a tool you can buy from NAPA that indicates combustion gases in the radiator coolant. It involves putting the tester tube in the radiator filler with an indicator liquid and if the tube liquid turns color that indicates exhaust gases in the coolant. You can then clear the tester, remove all the plugs from one bank and start the car (it will run on one bank only) and run the test again--if the liquid turns color you have identified the side with the problem. If it doesn't turn color, the problem is the other side.
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