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Posted By Discussion Topic: Rebuild kit for 1953 carb ??? -- page: 1 2     Grant 02-07-2012 @ 12:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 538 Joined: Oct 2009 Has anyone recently rebuilt a 1953 V8 carburetor ? I am concerned about the effects of unleaded gasoline, and would like to buy a brand new carburetor rebuilding kit in which all the components have been designed to tolerate modern fuels. Perhaps you could advise the name of a Grade A manufacturer and their kit's part number ? Stroker 02-07-2012 @ 3:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Gee Grant, if you want guarantees, why not just source a new one from Edelbrock. Since Vic Jr. started re-poping the 94 with a "Made in USA" duplicate, I would also assume that Edelbrock has complete rebuild kits for 94's. I would also assume that they are designed for modern fuels, since all of the rest of his product line is. jims33 02-07-2012 @ 5:52 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2011 Is it a Stromberg or some other carburator? I am more familier with the early V8's - but I was thinking the later ones used other brands. supereal 02-07-2012 @ 8:23 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The 94 is a Holley. C&G has alcohol proof kits. As Dan mentioned, Edelbrock is now offering new 94 carbs, which they claim are "improved". They are priced at about $400. Installing a kit doesn't constitute a "rebuild". It is important that the body is in good condition with no warping or cracks. If your carb has leakage or other problems, a kit may not fix it. TomO 02-08-2012 @ 7:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7281 Joined: Oct 2009 Daytona Parts Co. makes a kit with a power valve that has the correct gasket surface. They include the idle screws, accelerator pump discharge needle and their own design float needle ans seat along with all of the gaskets needed. http://www.daytonaparts.com/carburetor.html Vintage Speed also has the power valve with the correct gasket surface in their kits. They are similar to Daytona Parts kit, but use a different float valve. http://www.daytonaparts.com/carburetor.html Their are a couple of re-builders that have the correct power valve in their kits. Ken CT has a steel needle valve in his kit and I have found that these work the best with the alcohol in the gas. They do not stick and they give a reliable fuel level in the carburetor for many miles. The kits from Daytona Parts and Vintage speed require that the gas level be set about 1/16" lower than the Ford specifications. This means you should measure the float level with the gasket in place. With the Vintage speed kit, I have had to lower the level even more as the gas was dripping into the air flow at idle. Tom 51f1 02-08-2012 @ 10:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 I think the concern about getting a kit that will not stand up to ethanol is overblown. I installed a rebuild kit several years ago in a '51 carb, which is essentially the same as a '53. I don't remember where I got it (probably Carpenter), but I have had no problems with ethanol. Also, I have never come across a power valve with the wrong gasket surface, and I have seen several. Richard BERTHA 02-09-2012 @ 5:07 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 129 Joined: Nov 2009 I think the concern about getting a kit that will not stand up to ethanol is overblown. I installed a rebuild kit several years ago in a '51 carb, which is essentially the same as a '53. I don't remember where I got it (probably Carpenter), but I have had no problems with ethanol. Also, I have never come across a power valve with the wrong gasket surface, and I have seen several. Richard My experience also...Mac's is local, got a kit there 5 years ago. Removed carb, disassembled, cleaned thoroughly, set float level, removed tank had it cleaned & sealed, replaced lines as needed. Trouble-free since. Sta-bil during storage, MMO every fill. Bob "it's only original once"" TomO 02-09-2012 @ 7:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7281 Joined: Oct 2009 Richard, The original Ford / Chandler Groves / Holley power valve has two small holes for the gas and they line up with the openings in the carburetor body. The gasket surface is flat all the way to the threaded portion of the valve. The improper gasket surface on the power valve came about when Holley stopped making the kit for the 94 and the AA1 in the 1990's. They also stopped making the power valve for the 94. The 94 has a very narrow seating surface for the power valve and it is close to the threaded portion of the valve. The later Holley carburetors have a wider surface and it is further from the threaded portion of the valve. This change along with the larger openings at the base of the valve allowed more fuel to be supplied when the valve opened. The Holley replacement power valve has a radius at the gasket surface. The radius gives more strength to the valve body to compensate for the larger openings.This prevents the gasket from seating completely. Other kits have power valves with 2 raised ridges on the gasket surface, these tend to leak also. Another version of the power valve has the nut at the top so large that you must grind out some metal from the carburetor body. There is also a power valve that is too long for the 94. The alcohol resistant parts started showing up in the kits in the early 1990's. Most kits sold today have these parts. Here is a link showing the comparison of the original type and the current Holley type. http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=276&SID=24&PHPSESSID=f928a3ba3eb6831616173bd7615afe1d Tom Grant 02-10-2012 @ 6:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 538 Joined: Oct 2009 As always I am sincerely grateful for your input, gentlemen. Thanks very much. My concern about getting the right kit arises from an experience with one of our '51 Fords. After cleaning and rebuilding the stock carburetor with an Echlin kit, it ran well for a few days.......less than 100 miles. Ever since it has been stumbly when beginning to move from a stopped position. If I'm not careful, it will stall. Pulling the choke out to increase rpm's, accelerating to 10 or 15 mph, and then pushing the choke all the way back in........no problem........the car doesn't stall on take-off. Similarly, wobbling the accelerator pedal up and down repeatedly while beginning to move from a stopped position.........also no problem.........the car doesn't stall on take-off. It feels like the car is getting enough gas to idle properly in Park (it's a Fordomatic), but not enough to get rolling from a stopped position. It had occurred to me that the Echlin kit had contained a part or parts that weren't quite right, or in the alternative was adversely affected by the 10% alcohol content in the ethanol gasoline which we have to use here in Ontario (RG149). A friend has asked for assistance in making sure that he buys a trustworthy carb rebuild kit for his '53. Unless one of you recommends not to, I think we should likely be ordering a rebuild kit from Daytona Parts in Florida as long as Ron is willing to ship it to us in Canada. Regards, Grant TomO 02-10-2012 @ 8:00 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7281 Joined: Oct 2009 Pull your spark plugs and check them for proper combustion. If they show a rich condition, your power valve gasket may be leaking or your float level set incorrectly. Check your accelerator pump action by looking down the barrel of the carburetor while operating the accelerator. You should see 2 strong streams of gas. If they are OK, check for a vacuum leak where the base and body meet. Tom

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