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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Rebuild kit for 1953 carb ???

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Rebuild kit for 1953 carb ??? -- page: 1 2

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supereal
07-09-2012 @ 10:44 AM
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Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Go to Edelbrock.com and click on the 94 page for the full info on the carb. The throttle shaft extends out on both sides. That way, both stock an multiple carbs can be used, depending on how the linkage is configured.

TomO
07-09-2012 @ 8:20 AM
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Posts: 7281
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Here is a link to the description of the Edelbrock Carburetor. Notice that the ad states that this is not a replacement for a stock carburetor and requires modification of the throttle linkage to use it on a stock Ford manifold.

I don't know if a stock base can be bolted onto it.

I haven't tried the Carpenter carburetor that I bought. I am waiting for someone to have an engine on a running stand.

Tom

42merc
07-08-2012 @ 11:53 AM
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Posts: 126
Joined: Dec 2010
          
The problem I see with the Edelbrock carb is there is no throttle rod hookup on the right side of the carb. I believe these were designed for 3 twos on an early Chevy manifold, retro style.


supereal
07-08-2012 @ 9:41 AM
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Posts: 6819
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I'm attaching a page from Jeg's catalog, one of our suppliers, regarding the "new" Edlebrock 94 carb. If I was going to buy a new one, this would be it. Offshore repros have generated some complaints. Old carbs can be hard to rebuild due to warped bodies, etc.

TomO
07-08-2012 @ 7:25 AM
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Posts: 7281
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Don, I don't know who manufactures the carburetors for Carpenter, but the inlet on the one that I bought is the same thread as the original carburetors.

If yours is metric contact Carpenter and ask them how you can install it, as the threads not the same as the fitting on the fuel line.

If you bought it from Mac's ask them the same question.

Tom

Big Red 51
07-07-2012 @ 2:13 PM
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Posts: 192
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Any body know who is making the new 94 Carbs that Carpenter and Mac's are selling. The threaded inlet joint is metric.
Don

bigvince
02-29-2012 @ 2:32 PM
Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I just got finished rebuilding a 53 carb. I noticed that the kit had a rubber tipped needle and seat. having worked at Holley Carb back in the 70's, there was a big concern when ethanol first appeared in gasoline. Most of the rubber parts used in fuel systems now have been updated for 10 percent enthanol. A bigger problem is E85. This will break down the rubber in any car up to 2007. Your best bet is to replace all rubber lines, gaskets, diaphrams that contact fuel with new parts. Just because you don't drive it but 1200 miles a year, doesn't mean there isn't deterioration of rubber.

TomO
02-10-2012 @ 8:00 AM
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Posts: 7281
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Pull your spark plugs and check them for proper combustion. If they show a rich condition, your power valve gasket may be leaking or your float level set incorrectly.

Check your accelerator pump action by looking down the barrel of the carburetor while operating the accelerator. You should see 2 strong streams of gas.

If they are OK, check for a vacuum leak where the base and body meet.

Tom

Grant
02-10-2012 @ 6:54 AM
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Posts: 538
Joined: Oct 2009
          
As always I am sincerely grateful for your input, gentlemen.

Thanks very much.

My concern about getting the right kit arises from an experience with one of our '51 Fords. After cleaning and rebuilding the stock carburetor with an Echlin kit, it ran well for a few days.......less than 100 miles.

Ever since it has been stumbly when beginning to move from a stopped position. If I'm not careful, it will stall.

Pulling the choke out to increase rpm's, accelerating to 10 or 15 mph, and then pushing the choke all the way back in........no problem........the car doesn't stall on take-off.

Similarly, wobbling the accelerator pedal up and down repeatedly while beginning to move from a stopped position.........also no problem.........the car doesn't stall on take-off.

It feels like the car is getting enough gas to idle properly in Park (it's a Fordomatic), but not enough to get rolling from a stopped position. It had occurred to me that the Echlin kit had contained a part or parts that weren't quite right, or in the alternative was adversely affected by the 10% alcohol content in the ethanol gasoline which we have to use here in Ontario (RG149).

A friend has asked for assistance in making sure that he buys a trustworthy carb rebuild kit for his '53. Unless one of you recommends not to, I think we should likely be ordering a rebuild kit from Daytona Parts in Florida as long as Ron is willing to ship it to us in Canada.





Regards, Grant






TomO
02-09-2012 @ 7:51 AM
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Posts: 7281
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Richard,

The original Ford / Chandler Groves / Holley power valve has two small holes for the gas and they line up with the openings in the carburetor body. The gasket surface is flat all the way to the threaded portion of the valve.

The improper gasket surface on the power valve came about when Holley stopped making the kit for the 94 and the AA1 in the 1990's. They also stopped making the power valve for the 94. The 94 has a very narrow seating surface for the power valve and it is close to the threaded portion of the valve. The later Holley carburetors have a wider surface and it is further from the threaded portion of the valve. This change along with the larger openings at the base of the valve allowed more fuel to be supplied when the valve opened.

The Holley replacement power valve has a radius at the gasket surface. The radius gives more strength to the valve body to compensate for the larger openings.This prevents the gasket from seating completely. Other kits have power valves with 2 raised ridges on the gasket surface, these tend to leak also. Another version of the power valve has the nut at the top so large that you must grind out some metal from the carburetor body. There is also a power valve that is too long for the 94.

The alcohol resistant parts started showing up in the kits in the early 1990's. Most kits sold today have these parts.

Here is a link showing the comparison of the original type and the current Holley type.

http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=276&SID=24&PHPSESSID=f928a3ba3eb6831616173bd7615afe1d

Tom

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