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Posted By Discussion Topic: Trans Problem (now) - 48 coupe -- page: 1 2 3 4 5     swmddo 01-20-2012 @ 5:18 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 alanwoodieman, That is exactly what happened. The supplier sent me the wrong main drive...he is correcting it at no charge, and was very apologetic. The problem with lots of these parts, new or old, is that there is no part number on them. So, lots of times, people scrounge around for parts that "seem to work", which they do,....for awhile, and then big problems arise. Steve alanwoodieman 01-19-2012 @ 2:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 remember the previous post about there being a 16 tooth input shaft from a later trans that looks OK but will not work with the cluster that you have? Is there a part number on the new input shaft? 8CM? Measure across the 16 tooth part of the input with a micrometer, if it measures 2.44 it is for a later trans. swmddo 01-19-2012 @ 2:14 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 OK, this is really strange. The cluster gear I had was a 28-24-18-14 gear, as is the NEW one I just got. the OLD main drive gear had 15 teeth, the NEW one has 16. My understanding was that the total had to be 44. Well, it doesn't work. With the NEW cluster and NEW main drive, there is no way they can fit. I can get the cluster gear in without the main drive, and the main shaft and cluster turn freely. I can also get the main shaft and main drive in without the cluster, and they move smoothly. Unless the cluster gears have a different diameter with the same number of teeth, I am stumped. Steve swmddo 01-11-2012 @ 2:49 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Regarding the end-play in the cluster gear with NEW washers...it appears to be about .06". That means I need to find a washer/spacer that is about .055 or so. Are there any places to find hardened steel washers/spacers that would work, without having to have one specially made? Could I use stainless steel washer(s) if I found the right size? Thanks Steve This message was edited by swmddo on 1-12-12 @ 4:53 AM swmddo 01-08-2012 @ 2:33 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 will do! The case looks good, it came from a '46, based on the imprinted number. One of the slinger was damaged, so I am replacing every washer, bearing, and some of the shafts. Thanks for the info on the tolerances.. Steve supereal 01-08-2012 @ 1:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Have a good machine shop look at the case before you reassemble the transmission. Lots of damage is done by oil starvation over the years caused by leakage. Chances are the case isn't worn so badly that new thrust washers won't cover it, but check the gear end play to see that it doesn't exceed .020". Ideal is .004-.008. Replacement main bearings usually come with a cover on both sides. I remove the inner side cover to assure lubrication. There is a "slinger" (baffle)on each end of the mainshaft, next to the bearings. These are often installed backwards. The raised collar should face the bearing to provide clearance so the slinger can work, and not block the oil. Henry favored slingers over seals in many places, which assured Fords would often leak like a sieve. swmddo 01-08-2012 @ 5:39 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi All, I got the Van Pelt tranny book, and it is excellent (shameless plug). I also found the front main bearing and oil baffle on the main drive gear were messed up, with one side of the bearing's small ball bearings worn down and were almost seized...that was most likely the noise. The oil baffle had a small hole in it near the edge and it was not flat...have NO idea how that could have happened all of a sudden...it didn't have this problem before the mechanic had it. At any rate, the inside rear of the case where the rear thrust washer goes with the cluster gear has some concentric grooves, as did the washer. I am replacing the washer, but what issues will I have if I don't somehow machine that smooth? Is there a practical way to do it (i.e. not expensive), or should I just not worry about it? Thanks Steve swmddo 01-04-2012 @ 10:24 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan, thanks. Can't imagine the frustration with these different sizes...even the difference in inches is so small, it would be hard to tell. I guess that is why we end up doing this work ourselves, because if we left it to someone else, they may not have a clue. I am going to replace the 28-tooth cluster and get a 16-tooth main drive gear. Thanks for the offer, though. Steve alanwoodieman 01-04-2012 @ 5:47 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 868 Joined: Oct 2009 those are mismatched gears, the input should be 16 teeth, I know the 15 tooth input goes with a 29 tooth cluster gear. I have a set of the lower ratio gears from a good transmission. I may also have a 28 tooth cluster but I don't have a 16 tooth input shaft. Also there are two 16 tooth input shafts (just to further confuse the issue) the one for a later model 27 tooth cluster gear, this one measures across the gears at 2.44". The one you want measures at 2.38 ? or close. swmddo 01-04-2012 @ 4:40 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 40 Coupe: Thanks. The Cluster gear I currently have (that needs to be replaced) has 28 teeth on the front gear. The input drive has 15 teeth (from previous owner)...doesn't add up to 44. What is the potential problem, if any, with this arrangement? Steve

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