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Discussion Topic:
Differences between 34 and 36 flatheads
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1934 Ford |
12-04-2011 @ 5:57 PM
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Senior
Posts: 574
Joined: Oct 2009
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Good discussion here. Supereal said: "More often than not, an old "rebuild" is a sign of trouble. Have a shop that knows about these old engines look at it before you put up the cash. Usually these very old engines were removed because of problems." He has a point but don't let that deter you. Think about it, these engines are 75 years old and I doubt than any of them are not "Older Rebuilds". Engines of this vintage had a hard life and one that has not been rebuilt would be a really goog find, but not worth waiting for. A rebuildable one is more important. I had a great 34 engine set up for the 1984 Great American Race and ran it that year an again in 1987. When the car was sold the new owner wanted a 100 HP flathead and my engine became surplus. It sat aound in several shops for years and was eventually sold for $400 by an owner who thought "original sh*t wasn't any good". I'm sure it's not the only 21 stud cast aside for the newer 24 stud engine. Yes, the guy who took it out must have thought, "to old, to much trouble, not cool". There are some good finds out there! The guy I bought my spare 34 engine from had in his 32 Ford, that would become a 50's nostalgia rod. It was a Montgomery Wards rebuild in the 50's with 10K on it. I drove his car with that engine and put my name on it an eventually got it. They're out there!
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Stroker |
12-04-2011 @ 8:03 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Well that's hardly a "technical" term, but if you look at a 34 manifold, it has a sort of coffin-like smooth top. The 35 and up manifolds have runners that are clearly externally visible from port to plenum. 34 manifolds look more like a 2-bbl version of the 1-bbl 32-33 manifolds.
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carguy |
12-03-2011 @ 7:03 PM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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I'm learning here too. What is meant by the intake has "submerged" runners?
Bill Brown '34 Cabriolet
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Stroker |
12-03-2011 @ 6:04 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mike gave you the ultimate test for determining the block. I can only add that the intake is pre 35 based on the "submerged" runners.
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rbone |
12-03-2011 @ 3:53 PM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2010
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pic #4
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rbone |
12-03-2011 @ 3:49 PM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2010
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pic #3
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rbone |
12-03-2011 @ 3:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2010
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pic #2
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rbone |
12-03-2011 @ 3:46 PM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2010
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Here are some pictures. Please let me know what you think the year of this motor might be - aside from the heads - and anything else that catches your attention. Thanks.
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kubes40 |
12-03-2011 @ 6:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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The pans are in fact interchangeable. As are the intakes which of course are different 34 vs 36. And obviously, the fuel pump stand, carburetor, cylinder heads, etc. can all be swapped. The biggest difference that can be noticed externally on each of these blocks is the cavity adjacent to each motor mount. The 34 block has both cavities at the same depth while the 36 block has one cavity (deep) and one shallow. Sometimes referred to as the two knuckle test... you should be able to measure the depth by placing your fingers in each cavity to, you guessed it, to the second knuckle within EACH side (cavity) of a 34 block.
This message was edited by kubes40 on 12-3-11 @ 3:21 PM
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Brendan |
12-03-2011 @ 6:40 AM
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Member
Posts: 46
Joined: May 2011
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i got a 35 21 stud motor from a friend of mine for 500$.he said that it was rebuilt 30 years ago, i had a few issues with it that i had to iron out before i put it in my 36 pickup. 4 pistons where put in backward and i re -ringed it. if you can get your motor for a good price go for it. you may won't to open it up to see what is going on inside. Brendan
Can't spell my way out of a paper bag!
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