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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / overheating 33' Cabriolet

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Discussion Topic: overheating 33' Cabriolet -- page: 1 2 3

TomO

11-26-2011 @ 8:10 AM

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Little Dearborn in MN lists thermostats for your car in their catalog. Give them a call to make sure that they are correct for installing in the hoses.

http://www.littledearborn.com/passenger/temp/ford_passenger__v8__thermostats.htm

Tom

drkbp

11-26-2011 @ 7:56 AM

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A pair of the one on the left if it will load. Can't get the picture to show in the preview.

FFracer

11-21-2011 @ 11:03 AM

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Looked at Mac's for the t-stats they really didn't show (or I missed it) anything for the 33' I would have thought the edges would have some thickness to them unlike the standard stats that drop into a relief cut in the block. Won't those edges cut into the hose?

Thanks,
Chris

supereal

11-21-2011 @ 10:12 AM

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If you have a problem with thermostats, be sure that they are installed properly with the bellows side facing the engine, not the radiator. In cars where they are placed in the upper hoses, place a clamp on the hose to prevent the stats from moving.

FFracer

11-21-2011 @ 9:22 AM

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yeah I know, T stats just scare the cr*p outa me. I have had several fail in other cars. Even now for our newer computer cars I stick-em in a pan with a gauge and test them before I install.. I know you are right engine temp management is very important. I have always used Stant although I read somewhere there are some Stainless steel versions although I am not sure what difference that makes?

Chris

carguy

11-21-2011 @ 7:58 AM

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Rather than reinstalling the restriction washers I would recommend that you install thermostats if you want to get the coolant temperature up.

Bill Brown
'34 Cabriolet

FFracer

11-21-2011 @ 7:47 AM

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new Kearney heads bolted down, started, warmed up no leaks. waited till morning and re-torqued the heads and ran it... PERFECT! ambient temp about 40 degrees so with the car running at 50-55 MPH I could barely get any temp at all, if I let it sit & idle I would get some reading from the gauge. I will check water temp with a thermometer later. Checked water level and it's right were it was before I left

Good Day for sure! I am thinking I need to put the restrictors back in so I get some kind of temp. in the motor, at least while it's cold out?

Thanks so much to all. I really appreciated the help.

Chris

wilmalcolm

11-13-2011 @ 9:31 AM

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I would suggest in looking at the hoses. I was having overheating problems for years with my '53 F-250 pu flathead and tried many things w/o success-radiator flush, nos radiator, removing grill, different thermostats, new coil, checking the timing, etc. Finally after 10 years of messing with all of the above and even after I replaced the block after it cracked, someone suggested that I should check my hoses and sure enough, one of the lower hoses was soft and would collapse. Replaced hose-end of problem.

This message was edited by wilmalcolm on 11-14-11 @ 2:23 PM

supereal

11-12-2011 @ 7:12 PM

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Run the new stud down until you feel the end of the threads are reached. It is a good idea to clear the block threads first. A special thread chasing tap is best, but a common threading tap will work if carefully used. If you encounter resistance, back off the tap and work it back and forth until the hole is cleared. Old cast iron is funny stuff, and is trying to revert to iron ore, so be very careful when tightening the studs and the head nuts, following the standard pattern with a good quality torque wrench.

ford38v8

11-12-2011 @ 7:01 PM

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Chris, Permatex High Temp Thread Sealer is what you want. They made it just for us. Chebbies not allowed to use it.

Alan

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