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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Clutch replacment

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Clutch replacment     supereal 10-31-2011 @ 7:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The amount of pedal free play can be a sign of several problems. Of course, adjustment of the release linkage is obvious, but we have encountered vehicles with the wrong lever on the release shaft, probably due to a junkyard swap long ago. It is possible, but unlikely that the clutch disk is worn out enough to cause your problem. It is more likely that the pressure plate has weak springs, or the surface is burnt and scored. We have also seen egg-shaped holes in the clutch release shaft where the lever and fork are pinned, and sloppy release shaft bushings. You won't know until the clutch is removed and the above checked. This message was edited by supereal on 10-31-11 @ 2:59 PM FFracer 10-30-2011 @ 8:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 62 Joined: Oct 2011 Yesterday I drive the car about 30 miles 40-55 Mph up small hills and down went to a car show, never had any issue with clutch slip so I think that maybe I will just ignore it until it does become a problem. Not like this is my ride to work Thanks for your advice and input. Chris shogun1940 10-28-2011 @ 7:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 464 Joined: Feb 2010 you should only have 3/4 of an inch free play, I would get that adjusted first, then if the clutch does not slip in third gear going up a hill I would leave it alone 40cpe 10-28-2011 @ 6:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 477 Joined: Jan 2010 I would have to agree with you that given you have free play at the top and a high engagement, your disc is thin. I also agree with your decision not to tear into it until it slips, that could be a long time. FFracer 10-28-2011 @ 5:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 62 Joined: Oct 2011 no slipping, i have about 2" of free play. maybe this is just the way it is??? I have nothing to compare the "Feel" too. I agree with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality. So leave it until it does start slipping. Again thank you, Chris Stroker 10-28-2011 @ 3:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Chris: Given your dad's mechanical skills, I'd tend to agree. If the clutch isn't slipping in high gear on a hill, I believe I'd simply adjust the clevis on the left side of the transmission "bell" to give you the free-play you should have. If after doing that, the clutch doesn't fully disengage, then a disc replacement may be necessary. The idea of an adjustable clevis was to accommodate normal clutch disc wear. It's only when that just "doesn't do it" that you need to dig deeper. Dan This message was edited by Stroker on 10-28-11 @ 3:32 PM FFracer 10-28-2011 @ 3:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 62 Joined: Oct 2011 This is what is killin' me, this was my Dad's car, we rebuilt it together way back when. Then he decided to do the motor (H&H rebuild) I just cannot believe he would not replace the disc, T.O. and pressure plate! He has since passed so now it's my pride & joy. I did some digging and dropping the rear axle back does appear to be the way to go. So does my diagnosis sound right, high pedal engagement is a worn-out disc?? Thanks I really appreciate your input. Chris Stroker 10-28-2011 @ 3:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 FFracer: Actually, you have a choice of either pulling the engine (pretty easy on a 33), or pulling the rear end (also not that difficult). Unless you have engine issues that would encourage you to go the engine route, I'd opt for pulling the rear, since you won't have to drain any vital fluids, or break any fluid connections. You will need to disconnect your rear brake linkage, remove the two U-bolts holding the spring in place at the center and raise the rear of the car enough for the rear spring to drop out of the rear cross-member. Disconnect the U-Joint by removing the two-piece cover/ ball socket for the torque tube, and simply roll the axle back a few inches. Pull the floorboards, tin trans floor cover, disconnect the clutch clevis, and remove the transmission to engine bolts. You will now be able to grab the transmission by the shift lever, and pull it back and up out of the car. This is the perfect time to replace the throw out bearing, while you're at it. Proceed as you would for any clutch replacement on any vehicle. Caveat: If at any time, the clutch was replaced with an 11-inch "truck clutch", you will have to pull the engine, as the larger diameter pressure plate won't clear the trans/engine opening, and will require pulling the oil pan. If this was a 32, you'd have to pull the engine, as the rear transmission mount bolts through the cross member. I may be mistaken, but I believe all Model 48's (33-34) used the X-style frame, which allows pulling the trans, without pulling the engine. Model 48 experts: please confirm or condemn my instructions, as I have only worked on Model 18's and Model 81's. Stroker 10-28-2011 @ 3:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 deleted double post. This message was edited by Stroker on 10-28-11 @ 3:05 PM FFracer 10-28-2011 @ 1:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 62 Joined: Oct 2011 Did a search didn't come up with anything... My pedal is engaging at the very top, now if i remember correctly that is a worn-out disc? So I have done clutches on several vehicles just not a 1933 Ford Cabriolet with a closed drive shaft. Is it a major job or pretty straight forward I read somewhere it requires engine removal? Any help is as always appreciated Chris

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