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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Question: HELP! New guy here. Needs help.

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Question: HELP! New guy here. Needs help.

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mnoutdoorlover
10-27-2011 @ 7:57 AM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2011
          
Hi everyone,
I'm new on here, and looking for a site or? that will show me step by step how to go about restoring the 1952 F1 I recently purchased. I'm thinking (hoping) that someone has kept a detailed journal online, or something.
It was all taken apart (12 years ago) by the previous owner.
This is something I've never done before, and I'm not sure of the order in which things should be done.
Thanks in advance,
Larry

This message was edited by mnoutdoorlover on 10-27-11 @ 9:57 AM

Old Henry
10-27-2011 @ 8:32 AM
Senior
Posts: 738
Joined: Apr 2010
          
Here is some informative information for starters:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/6/637/Tips_Stories_and_Humor/article/A_HowTo_Guide_for_Restoring_Vintage_Ford_Trucks.html

Here's what looks like a good book:

http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Pickup-Trucks-1948-56-Development/dp/0879382139

Here's another:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/search?index=books&linkCode=qs&keywords=0879387262

And another with even others listed:

http://books.google.com/books?id=QWYOHQ1_Tc8C&dq=restoring+ford+trucks+guides&source=gbs_similarbooks_s&cad=1

Good luck. "Looks like you just bought yo'self a heap o' trouble boy."

Old Henry
(The older I get, the better old looks.)

TomO
10-27-2011 @ 8:34 AM
Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
          
A good overall sequence is:
Join a local Regional Group so that you can talk over any problems with a local person.
Inventory all parts and take photos of them.
Take pictures of the parts and put P/N on them.
Take pictures of the chassis and cab and all sub-assemblies that are still attached.
Start looking for missing parts at swap meets.
Start the chassis restoration first by removing any parts still attached. Take photos and notes while doing the dis-assembly. Restore each unit as you remove it.

Tom

alanwoodieman
10-27-2011 @ 10:39 AM
Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have sent you a PM, but in the meantime one of the best things you can do is to find another truck like yours that is together and go look at it, take pictures, in fact look at several and take pictures. If you will let the group of us know where you live, there might be some one nearby that would help you. Join the V8 club there is a wealth of info there.

mnoutdoorlover
10-27-2011 @ 11:25 AM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2011
          
Hey!
Thanks for the responses.
I'm in Brainerd, Minnesota.

51f1
10-27-2011 @ 11:37 AM
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I completed restoration of a '51 F-1 two years ago. It took me so long I have forgotten how long. I did it all but the machine work on the engine. I replaced a lot of rust in the cab including the floor. Do I qualify? Just kidding. I'll help you anyway I can and will get back to you shortly with some advice and recommendations. By-the-way, my truck will appear in the 2013 Hemmings truck calendar. There was also an article about the restoration a few months ago in Hemmings Classic Car magazine.

Looks like you have a 5-Star Extra (deluxe) cab.

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg264/rcrispd/PB010053.jpg

Richard

This message was edited by 51f1 on 10-27-11 @ 11:48 AM

mnoutdoorlover
10-27-2011 @ 12:06 PM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Oct 2011
          
Thanks,
That's a very pretty truck!

supereal
10-27-2011 @ 2:12 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I love old trucks, but most have been run to the point restoration will be difficult and expensive. Finding a "donor" truck will save you tons (no pun) of money in getting the thing back to driveable condition.

51f1
10-28-2011 @ 11:20 AM
Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I hope this helps:

I wanted to see what it was like to drive a "new" 1951 Ford F-1. I did not try to build an EFV8 award winning truck but otherwise built it as close to original as practical. I restored or replaced practically every part of my truck.

If you can find one, look at an authentic Ford F-1 and make notes and take pictures. I was fortunate to have seen an original '51 truck in Atlanta.

You need to buy an original Ford parts manual and a Ford repair manual that cover your truck. The parts books are generally available on e-bay and will be invaluable in figuring out how to put the thing back together. You can find original repair manuals, but the repro repair manual which covers '49-'51 with the '52 supplement is a quality product (on e-bay or from suppliers). The original '49-'51 manual and the separate original '52 supplement is also available on e-bay or from people who supply old car literature. I don't know of any books written about restoring your old truck that I would recommend, except perhaps the book about restoring the engine, "Rebuilding The Famous Ford Flathead" by Ron Bishop. Get copies of parts catalogs from several suppliers of parts for your truck. Don't forget Joblot as they may have NOS parts that the others don't have (I got all of my transmission parts from Joblot).

You need an air compressor of at least 5 h.p., an air cut-off tool, a mig welder (and you need to learn how to use it) and, perhaps, a sand blaster (and a HVLP paint gun if you plan to do-it-yourself).

Depending on what you need, start collecting new and NOS parts such as door latch and window crank mechanisms, stainless trim such as the hood spears, the dash trim and gauges including a speedometer (this may now be available as a repro), parking lights, tail lights, etc., etc. I even found a NOS windshield washer kit. Part of the dash trim, the ash tray trim and the glove box trim, is chrome plated and will have to be replated. The only other chrome that I can think of on a '52 F-1 is the chrome around the instruments and the door handles and window cranks. The door handles and window cranks are available as quality reproductions.

The first thing that I did was to rebuild the engine, probably because I enjoy the mechanical stuff more. After I disassembled everything, I sand blasted the frame, front and rear axles and the springs and other suspension parts and painted them with two coats of POR-15 and Chassis Coat Black. The next thing I did was to rebuild the transmission - I replaced everything in it. I checked the differential and decided that it was O.K. and replaced only the input seal and the cover gasket. I pulled the axles and replaced the wheel bearings and seals. Somewhere along the line, I replaced the king pin and bushings (a machine shop will ream the bushings for you). Then I learned how to do body work (not my favorite thing). I took my body parts to a stripper that was 240 miles away (no, not that kind of stripper). That saved me countless hours of work.

I replaced my floor with two repro patch panels and sections of the toe boards cut from another old cab. My experience is that the repro floor patch panels stop at the seam where the floor turns up, but the rust doesn't. I also had to replace a lot of the lower rear cab and some of the door skin. There are no patch panels available for that. Patch panels are available for the lower rear front fenders where the running boards attach, but not for the rear fenders. I bought a stretcher and shrinker and fabricated those. I also had to patch a door corner with a piece I fabricated. Rather than spending the rest of my life repairing the bed, I bought a repro bed. The repro bed was of excellent quality, and I highly recommend you get one unless you have one that is in excellent condition. But that's for later.

My fuel tank looked like new inside, so all I had to do was to clean and paint the exterior - body color, by-the-way.

I got new brake drums and all new brake parts. I used stainless brake lines. A 5/16" brake line works fine as a fuel line. Do not buy the 1/4" fuel line some folks sell for your truck as it doesn't fit.

I used stainless fasteners practically everywhere and recommend the same for you if your are not going for 100% authenticity. Totally Stainless has kits with all the nuts and bolts. If you use stainless, follow the safety warnings.

You can have your radiator restored, or you can buy a new one.

I installed seat belts, a fuel filter and turn signals. For the turn signals, I changed the parking light sockets for use with two-filament bulbs and had the wiring built into the reproduction wiring harness.

If you decide to paint it yourself, I recommend you build a paint booth. I built a temporary booth in my garage. I can tell you how I did it if you interested.

I have a lot of specific information on how to do certain repairs and colors and details that may be helpful. When you get there, contact me and I'll try to help. If anything else comes to mind, I'll post it.

Richard

This message was edited by 51f1 on 10-29-11 @ 1:36 AM

EdB
10-30-2011 @ 4:47 AM
Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2009
          
Maybe this will help....


SCG Classic Car Restoration: 1952 Ford F1 Pickup Truck Restoration Project

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/department37.cfm

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