Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / sludge removal

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: sludge removal

parrish

11-29-2009 @ 6:00 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009

ok, so an engine that has been dormant for 50 years has a bunch of sludge hanging around, right? Oil pan, mostly? Or if I remove the heads, can I remedy any of the sludge build up that way? How big a battle is it to remove the pan? Thanks as always...

ford38v8

11-29-2009 @ 6:40 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2759
Joined: Oct 2009

Parrish, Unless you need to disassemble the engine for another
reason, I wouldn't take it apart to remove sludge. The oil pan is easily
removed, but a bear to reinstall correctly, as the pan can compress at
the bolts, exposing the interstices to leak oil. Much of the sludge will
be in the valleys beneath the intake manifold, but dangerous to
remove any of it due to the high risk of chunks of sludge plugging the
oil supply lines. There is no sludge in the combustion chambers, so no
need to remove the heads.

Bottom line is that it is safer and much easier to use modern detergent
oil, and change it at 500 miles, then at every 2000 miles. The detergent
oil will safely work at the sludge slowly, and the remaining sludge
won't be a problem.

Alan

51f1

11-29-2009 @ 11:15 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009

Absolutely don't attempt to remove the sludge. Only bad things will happen. And, as Alan said above, most of the sludge is in the valve area under the valve cover, i.e., the intake manifold. (Ford called it a "cover (valve chamber)").

Richard

parrish

11-30-2009 @ 7:27 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009

thanks Alan & Richard...I had dropped whatever oil was in the car when I bought it and had intentionally used non-detergent oil out of fear of disrupting the 48 years of sludge buildup, fearing it would breake loose and block the oil supply (I had thought the oil pan screen might be the victim). So, I'll switch over to detergent! I was going to remove the heads to investigate low compression in 4 cylinders, but it does start and I've got my hands full with brakes, gas, water, etc. So, how dangerous to let the engine run for a few miles, as is?

supereal

11-30-2009 @ 9:18 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009

Don't try to scrape away the sludge, as it will clog oil passages already nearly full of crud. We usually have to open the crankshaft of old engines and ream out the deposits, then replug the holes. I don't know why non-detergent oil is still sold. It is only good to fill your oil can. The detergent is designed to keep loose particles in suspension until they can reach the filter. If your engine doesn't have a filter, change the oil frequently, often as soon as 500 miles or less in a lightly driven car. We recommend Shell Rotella 15-40 oil in old engines that haven't been rebuilt. It is a diesel grade oil that is made to address heavy particle situations.

parrish

11-30-2009 @ 7:29 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009

thanks Supereal! I'll switch over to Shell (as a matter of fact, you guys on this forum are like the Shell Answer Man!)

ford38v8

11-30-2009 @ 9:22 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2759
Joined: Oct 2009

Uhhh.... Parrish, no. We prefer to identify with Click & Clack.

Alan

<< previous || next >>

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions