| parrish | -- 11-29-2009 @ 6:00 PM |
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ok, so an engine that has been dormant for 50 years has a bunch of sludge hanging around, right? Oil pan, mostly? Or if I remove the heads, can I remedy any of the sludge build up that way? How big a battle is it to remove the pan? Thanks as always...
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-29-2009 @ 6:40 PM |
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Parrish, Unless you need to disassemble the engine for another reason, I wouldn't take it apart to remove sludge. The oil pan is easily removed, but a bear to reinstall correctly, as the pan can compress at the bolts, exposing the interstices to leak oil. Much of the sludge will be in the valleys beneath the intake manifold, but dangerous to remove any of it due to the high risk of chunks of sludge plugging the oil supply lines. There is no sludge in the combustion chambers, so no need to remove the heads. Bottom line is that it is safer and much easier to use modern detergent oil, and change it at 500 miles, then at every 2000 miles. The detergent oil will safely work at the sludge slowly, and the remaining sludge won't be a problem. Alan
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| 51f1 | -- 11-29-2009 @ 11:15 PM |
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Absolutely don't attempt to remove the sludge. Only bad things will happen. And, as Alan said above, most of the sludge is in the valve area under the valve cover, i.e., the intake manifold. (Ford called it a "cover (valve chamber)"). Richard
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| parrish | -- 11-30-2009 @ 7:27 AM |
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thanks Alan & Richard...I had dropped whatever oil was in the car when I bought it and had intentionally used non-detergent oil out of fear of disrupting the 48 years of sludge buildup, fearing it would breake loose and block the oil supply (I had thought the oil pan screen might be the victim). So, I'll switch over to detergent! I was going to remove the heads to investigate low compression in 4 cylinders, but it does start and I've got my hands full with brakes, gas, water, etc. So, how dangerous to let the engine run for a few miles, as is?
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| supereal | -- 11-30-2009 @ 9:18 AM |
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Don't try to scrape away the sludge, as it will clog oil passages already nearly full of crud. We usually have to open the crankshaft of old engines and ream out the deposits, then replug the holes. I don't know why non-detergent oil is still sold. It is only good to fill your oil can. The detergent is designed to keep loose particles in suspension until they can reach the filter. If your engine doesn't have a filter, change the oil frequently, often as soon as 500 miles or less in a lightly driven car. We recommend Shell Rotella 15-40 oil in old engines that haven't been rebuilt. It is a diesel grade oil that is made to address heavy particle situations.
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| parrish | -- 11-30-2009 @ 7:29 PM |
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thanks Supereal! I'll switch over to Shell (as a matter of fact, you guys on this forum are like the Shell Answer Man!)
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| ford38v8 | -- 11-30-2009 @ 9:22 PM |
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Uhhh.... Parrish, no. We prefer to identify with Click & Clack. Alan
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