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Discussion Topic:
Fuel Pump Problem?
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supereal |
09-19-2011 @ 7:38 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Alan: I'd be careful. Maybe Juanita is practicing her aim!
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ford38v8 |
09-19-2011 @ 8:56 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bob, Juanita says she'll go for pinks with you. Her GoGo and your Navigator. She'll beat you over the crosswalk any day.
Alan
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JM |
09-19-2011 @ 10:06 PM
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Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009
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doning, KenCT rebuilds the earlier FB's with components that do not deteriorate when using new gas. He is buying these components somewhere. Maybe he will sell you a rebuild kit. Or you could send your FP to him for a rebuild. Some of the new aftermarket fuel pumps put out way too much pressure. Should be no more than 2-3 psi. Also, I don't buy into the theory that the gas in the clear hose between FP and carburetor evaporates overnight. I think it would have to be leaking or draining back somehow.
JM
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TomO |
09-20-2011 @ 8:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Don, The output (pressure) side valve will leak down in a few minutes and the fuel will leak back to the lowest point, which is the fuel pump sediment bowl. The inlet port of the sediment bowl is high enough to prevent all of the gas leaking back to the tank. The gas in the carburetor will not siphon back to the tank or evaporate over night. It should take more than a week to drain the bowl by evaporation. The one way valves in the flexible line require a good filter before the valve. If any dirt, rust or other debris get stuck in the valve, it will not work. I would concentrate on fixing the carburetor. If it is the Chandler Groves / Ford / Holley 94 model, the power valve gasket or the drain plug gaskets are probably leaking. Stromberg 97 carbs have their own leaking sources.
Tom
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37RAGTOPMAN |
09-20-2011 @ 1:53 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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doning send your pump to THEN and NOW, in MASS, They will rebuild it for you will modern materials for the new gas,and this way you can KEEP the correct fuel pump on the car,,, or order a rebuild kit from them if you can do it yourself, 781-335-8860 ask for Tom he will fill you in, that's what ,I did and I have no problems, with the original pump HENRY put on the car, do it right and only do it ONCE, MY 3 cents of advice, 37RAGTOPMAN
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-20-11 @ 1:54 PM
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doning |
09-21-2011 @ 3:03 AM
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New Member
Posts: 158
Joined: Nov 2009
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Thanks. I have another concern I thought about last night. You guy's don't think that the gas is escaping the pump and running down the oil fill tube and removing the oil from my rear bearings do you? I smelled the oil less than a week ago and it didn't really smell anything like gas. This problem has been going on for about 3 to 4 months now and I hope my bearings are okay. What's the best way to remove the pump? Remove the pump from the fill tube or tube and all? Thanks again Guy's, you've all been a big help.
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supereal |
09-21-2011 @ 3:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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A quick test for gas or water in the oil is to pull the dipstick and hold a match under it. If it holds water, it will crackle. If gas, it should flare a bit. Give it the "sniff test", too. If there is sufficient gas leakage, it shouldn't be hard to detect. I don't usually run my cars unless I plan to get them up to operating temperature for about ten miles. This burns off most fuel or water, and prevents sludge. With the engine off, I wouldn't worry about gas getting into the valve chamber. As for replacing the pump. we take the mount off, add the pump, and replace the whole thing. It makes it easier to put the pump rod in the cup on the pump arm, and is better on my old back, too.
This message was edited by supereal on 9-21-11 @ 10:14 AM
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