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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / is this vapor lock?

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Discussion Topic: is this vapor lock? -- page: 1 2

fordmerc

09-01-2011 @ 6:35 AM

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'39 rebuilt engine runs perfectly - for about 5 miles - then it hesitates and will stall if I slow down around a corner or stop. Car won't start for about 15 min, then it runs well again (I don't know for how long). Ambient temperature around 75 degrees.

TomO

09-01-2011 @ 7:45 AM

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Did you check the spark? Did you check the float level?

It sounds like you may be flooding the engine, but check the spark just to make sure that it is good.

Tom

supereal

09-01-2011 @ 7:49 AM

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Probably either an old coil or condenser. Those are the classic symptoms. At 75 degrees, "vapor lock" is unlikely.

37RAGTOPMAN

09-01-2011 @ 8:11 AM

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also check your fuel cap to make sure it is vented,,,!!
when it does not start, check you spark,
if NONE, start with your ignition switch, and resister,with a volt meter. then on to the coil and condensor, also see if the coil gets hot,,,!! then
also a ANOTHER thing to try [ THIS WORKS FOR ME MORE THAN ONCE ] is a ice pack on the coil,
let it set for a few minutes,then try to start,if it Starts send the coil and disstributer to SKIP to have rebuilt. so you will not have any more problems,cause the coil is shorting out when it gets HOT,,
Hope this helps, 37RAGTOPMAN

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 9-1-11 @ 9:47 AM

doning

09-01-2011 @ 9:03 AM

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How do you know if the cap is vented? My gas cap is original to my '37 Ford. Is it vented then?

nelsb01

09-01-2011 @ 12:10 PM

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Original gas caps were vented. You are lucky if yours is the original cap.

ford38v8

09-01-2011 @ 2:06 PM

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"If you slow to turn or stop": This sounds like your spark is weak, and will continue to run at speed, but will fail if your RPM goes down. As your coil gets hot (5 mile drive), the internal insulation breaks down and it shorts out. Lower RPMs means higher compression, and the spark blows out. If this is the case, you need to send your coil out to be rebuilt. Skip Haney in Florida is one rebuilder, and has an excellent reputation. Do not replace your coil with new or NOS, as the new coils are low quality, and the NOS are just as old as yours is.

Alan

This message was edited by ford38v8 on 9-1-11 @ 2:09 PM

Stroker

09-01-2011 @ 2:45 PM

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Alan:

I won't buy into your premise that at low rpm's the pressure in the cylinders is higher.
Actually up to a point, the opposite is true.
I agree though, that the coil is likely the culprit. Fuel delivery problems and ignition adequacy quite often mimic each other. Replacing the coil with one of Skip's improved items simply eliminates a problem that sooner or later will rear its' head.

ford38v8

09-01-2011 @ 3:16 PM

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Dan, I would also think the opposite to be true, but I remember reading that somewhere. Everything you read is true, isn't it?

Alan

Stroker

09-01-2011 @ 3:30 PM

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Alan:

It would be true under either of the following circumstances:

1. It is a normally-aspirated diesel.
2. FordMerc makes his low-speed turns at full-throttle using only the brakes.

This is why it is generally recommended when testing compression to prop the throttle
wide open, as the throttle plates reduce the air available during the intake stroke.

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